Hello;

My brother in law has an F250 with stick. It has a 351 engine.

The clutch was not engaging all the way. You did not feel pressure on the pedal until about 2 inches from the floor.

We decided to bleed the clutch system. I had my brother in law pump the clutch and then hold the pedal. I then opened the bleeder valve and black fluit came down the clear tube I had attached.

After I closed the bleeder my brother in law then released the pedal, but it never came up off of the floor........ When then kept trying to bleed the system by working the pedal by hand... Some more black fluid came out but not much. We still have no clutch engagement at all.

We are going to try to replace the clutch master cylinder to see if that is the problem, maybe it will be able to pump up pressure, the old one is not pumping much fluid down to the slave. It has only dropped about 1/4 inch of fluid level after about 1/2 an hour of bleeding.

What is going on here? Is the slave cylinder shot? Any information that may help will be welcome.

Thanks.

 

you have to pump the daylights out of it after you bleed it and

don't open the bleeder just keep pumping

 

Go to my website in my diesel page and I have posted a simple and effective way to bleed your system.

 

After we were unable to get any fluid to pump out of the slave bleeder we figured that the problem was the master cylinder.

We replaced it and the pedal came up to pressure after about 6 bleeds.

Thanks for everybody's help.

 

Hey Redbug..

I'm about to replace my Master clutch cylinder because of the same problem.. I have a F250 88 . Probably use the same part..

How did you get the plastic hydralic tube off the Master cylinder?

Would appreciate on how it came off. The line is plastic and goes directly into the Master clutch cylender. Is there a special tool to pull this out?

thanks,

Runner

 

There's a tiny roll pin that retains the tube at each end. Drive the pin out and the tube can be removed easily. Look at the MC from the side and you'll see it.

On the later ones, you press the colored ring and pull the hose to remove it.

 

Thanks Steve..

Just as you stated.. I hit the pin out and the tube came right out.. I'll tell you though.... What a tough time getting the two bolts out for removing the Master cylinder.. took awhile but finally got it out..

My clutch pedel is back to normal..

thanks fo getting back..

Runner

 

Steve,

Need to ask you another question.. You've helped me out on other threads and thought I would ask..

I just put in a new Clutch master cylinder in my 88 F250 302 because I could get no pedel... Now the pedel is perfect.. But now my clutch slips on every gear.. Bearly drives.. I'm guessing I need to adjust the pedel???

Can you help here so the clutch will grab and not slip..

thanks for your time in advance..

Runner

 

Steve,

Forgot to mention that a heavy duty plowing clutch was put in this truck in 97. I only use this truck for dump runs as well as plowing my driveway... That's it. In other words. the truck is barely used.. This clutch was working with no problems grabbing up until a few weeks ago when I decided to bleed the clutch because my pedal was low and realized it was a bad Clutch MC.

thx

runner

 

This is from the Hydraulic Clutch album in my signature link. The part numbers are for an '86 truck, so yours may be different, but the info is accurate for all Fords. Click my signature and read the other captions in that album for more info.

Even with the right shaft, my slotted '86 lever was too far gone to reuse, so I had to order a new one. Because spline alignment is so critical, Ford recommends changing this lever every time the master cylinder is changed. The plastic bushing is also critical, because the MC pushrod eye is oversized. I bought some extras...

 

Steve. I didn't replace the lever yet. The alignment was quite close with the push rod onto the pin. It was maybe a 1/4 inch off and slipped on. Didn't think I had to respline. ???

The clutch grabs at the very high point of the pedal. Before I replaced the Clutch MC, there was very little pedal about 2 inches from the floor but grabbed OK..

Do you think replacing the lever will make the clutch grab better? or is it that my clutch is shot..?

thanks,

Runner

 

I think it's the lever. I thought I had mine pretty close, and the truck was almost undriveable. (Fortunately, the '83 wiring harness allows cranking in gear! ) Put a new lever on - it's cheap, and you'll know for sure. I bet it solves the problem.