I need some advice...I have a running '87 EFI 302 HO with badly worn crankshaft, a fresh 289 shortblock (by fresh I mean fresh from the junkyard, but cleaned), and a decent 351w carbd. The problem is the 302, it needs work but I really want to build up the 289 bcause in my opinion they are better.
The 302 is presently in a '67 Mustang w/T-5 tranny, I want to keep the t-5, but with a built 289. Does this mean I need a special flywheel and balancer for it to mate to the t-5? I believe the 289 and 302 are different balance, but I was hoping someone here might know for sure.
Also, what type of buildup would you guys recommend for around 300-350 horse from a 289. I'm thinking stroker, like a 347, maybe you have a better idea. What about heads?
What about roller cam in a 289, would that take to much money in machine work for a mediochre gain? Maybe solid lifter cam, with adjustable rockers? I really want to use the 289, but with the t-5... you get the picture.

 

this isn't what you asked but thought of this post when I saw it.
check it out

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthr...hreadid=373780

 

Any takers...

 

You asked for it, How much you wanna spend and how do you wanna get to that hp? There is no real voodoo with the 289 in reality the cranks interchange so you could take the 302 crank you have and drop it into the 289 with minimal work. I am pretty sure the 289's only used 28.2 oz balance. Should you go with a 302 crank just keep track of the balance and use the balancer and flywheel accordingly. You might look at using a stock roller setup off a mustang engine, but in reality you could use a flat tappet hydraullic and save some dollars and still make some hp. One benefit of roller is you can have a cam that make your idle lumpy yet retains a good low end power (higher ramp), but rollers aren't required to make 350hp or a lot of hp. Depending on your budget go with the gt-40 or gt-40p heads either get them with or install larger valves and get the things mildly ported, they will take you to 350hp no problem. Then you get lead to the next train of thought, well you just spent 800 on a pair of stock heads that should flow very well at this point but you could have saved yourself some time and energy and bought some world heads for the same money so look into those as well. The story doesn't end there now you are willing to part with 800-900 dollars for heads and well if you up the budget to 1200-1300 you can get a set of edelbrock performers or AFR's and quite frankly the AFR's are the hottest aftermarket head available now. Due in part they in tests have proven that they perform better than any other out of the box. Keep in mind that out of the box they are cnc machined as edelbrock and the others are as cast, so do you consider that an advantage or disadvantage? Who cares huh its all about the flow and they flow more out of the box. But if your on a budget get the cheapest (go real cheap) head you can find such as the gt-40's or pre 69 351 heads and then when you have them ported and new valves installed you won't feel so bad and you will have spent or saved a little money, I might catch some feedback for this but you could get the crappy E7TE heads well for 50 a pair usually and you would make the 350-400hp with them ported/polished, just depends on what kinda prices your looking at for port work and new valves. You didn't state if you wanted to put this in a truck or car? Either way going with a flat tappet cam and a T-5 will allow you to choose a cam that performs a little higher in the rpm curve than a stock converter auto. Use quality parts and arp fastners throughout and know where your compression sits after the block has been bored and/or decked and you have purchased the gaskets. Are you gonna retain efi or go carbed? Set up the entire engine combo as well as rear end gearing and intended use of the vehicle and take all this info and give it to comp or crane or whomever you wish to purchase a cam from and let them decide what cam you get, you know what you want they know what you need, get the cam last. Just changing the heads and compression would really put your engine into the 350hp range with proper fuel delivery, so that number is easily attainable. If you stick with the 289 I think it will rev quicker and higher obviously the more ci you go the less reving and more low end torque you will have. Don't forget get a good igniton system, msd are great jacobs are great but too expensive for what they are offering, mallory is fine as well and more cost effective than jacobs but more inline with msd. You could also opt for the latest ford distributors with Gm hei and easy hook up and reliablility for about 200, these are becoming a little more popular, try D.U.I. distributors if interested or jegs and summit have offerings. Well hope this answers some of your questions. Their may be some differences with the 289 bellhousing not for sure You will have to compare the 289 to the 302, they usually have the same bell housing but if I am not mistaken some are different I have seen them list them differently as in they have different bellhousing patterns but this may have been a misprint, pretty sure for the most part they use the same bellhousing pattern as the other sbf but again double check yours to be sure, or you could stick with the 302 and go from there. Personally I would apply everything I mentioned to your 351 and use it then it will cost you less in the long run. For street use stay away from solid lifters. Either way it sounds like it could be a good project, have fun and keep us posted on the build as it happens, I enjoy reading works in progress. Just a thought, later


Summit offers good bottom end kits as well as www.northernautoparts.com they list a kit including cam (stock) to rebuild your bottom end with your crank for $263.04. They also have a 347 scat stroker kit for use with 28 oz balance for $699 not bad either. You can upgrade the cam on the engine kits as well. Then that leaves heads which is the main determining factor of how much hp your engine is gonna create other than the cam. Hope this helps good luck again

 

Awsome reply, thanks. That is a lot of information to mill over. I like the 347 stroke idea, I have a spare set of e7 heads I could p&p. Add that to the 347 kit and I think I would be happy with the results. By the way, this setup is for a '67 Mustang coupe that currently has the '86 302 EFI that needs to be rebuilt.
Thanks again for the conversation, I'll let you know how things progress.

 

If you already have the 302 do you want to go carbed? Stick with the 86 motor and make it a 347. Let me know how it turns out I am always interested in a good motor build/ install post. Later

Then again if that link I gave you is legit then you will save yourself a lot of time and heart ache looking into it, the price is right, or for that matter looking into other crate motors might save you a buck or two as long as they aren't a ford performance part they are a little steep for the money, just a thought, later

 

NO!!!!!!!!!!!

Keep that 351, and get a stroker for it! Why pay for a 347 kit that is doomed for normal street use when you could get a very stout, reliable 393 ci for the same price? The motor mounts are the same, the bolt pattern is the same on the trans, all you'd have to do is get a different flywheel and headers. Just think of all that TORQUE. TK

 

Personally I would apply everything I mentioned to your 351 and use it then it will cost you less in the long run.


Torqueking
I already mentioned that, I don't think he took the bait.??

 

Torqueking
I already mentioned that, I don't think he took the bait.??

 

I really appreciate all the advice. The thing is I want to keep EFI, I hope you don't know how much work it took to get it transplanted into the '67 Stang. About the strokers, I know the bad rep the 347 has for reliablity, but what about a 331 w/good heads. I think that will give me oomph w/plenty of streetability, I'm not looking for a track/strip monster.
On the 351... the motor is on good shape and when I took it out was rated about 300HP, but there again I worked to hard on the fuel injection to take it back out. I've all but given up on the 289, to much work/money to make it camparable to the 302 I already have.
jwtaylor, thanks for the link, I've given it some thought

 

You know with a little research and a 351 efi lower you could put the 351 in using your current 302 efi setup. The ho cam uses the 351 firing order (double check to be sure). So all you would need to do is get a 351 distributor that would work with the efi and swap over the efi and have a chip burnt that matches your 351 mods if they are extensive. A few other odds and ends but nothing major. Hmmm makes you wonder huh? Later

 

r u putting the 351 in the stang? i have heard of clearance issues. the only diff between the 289 and 302 is a 1/2in stroke, the early 289 heads have a similar port to the later heads, and a smaller combustion chamber, they can be used to bump your compression a good point, but u must do it wisely with a proper cam to have a performance engine. the mid sixties 289 have a thermactor hump in them that needs to be ported and polish work does nothing for a daily driven engine, i have put 289 heads on windsors but i would say for a stock 5.0 the 289 is a cheap upgrade with port work. for a engine bone stock bottom dont plan on running parts made for above 6500 rpms. i will think of more when the capt'n wears off