Here's where you discuss the Pros and Cons of leaving things just as Henry built it. Include rebuild costs if possible.

Pros

1. Time-tested strength
2. Looks very much like a Ford suspension


Cons

1. Some amount of bumpsteer is almost impossible to avoid.

 

1. It's already there!

2. Lots of exhaust clearance.

3. Easy to work on.

4. Can pull oil pan without pulling engine.


Cons- 1. ride

2. Cannot easily bag.

3. pwr steering and brakes more harder to adapt.



Need I say more? If I wasn't a stocker, I'd go aerostar for sure. -4speed

 

'Fenders! You're being sooooooo easy on us this time

Suspect missles later

Pro
1. Original ride height-original period
2. Modest rebuild costs- pitman arm $60, spring bushings complete $40, shocks $40, better steer box 2 swap out $60, Stabilzer (a must) $40, kingpins $40 - installed by real grey hair front end man that did millions of them, $ 100
3. Real Man steering effort
4. Selection of real grease fitttings for under chassis entertainment

Con-
a. stock steering wheel may grow over time reducing clearance to seat back (gut swell)
a1. steering wheel inevitably needs PC7 epoxy repair
b. inevitable amount of stock wander-ok for townie use- may drive U nuts on highway

 

Love the topic.

Pro: Very light.

Easy to repair.

Rugged.

Coolness factor; it's original.

Sanitary look; simple, uncluttered.


Con: Steering like herding a cow.

Handling, not great.

Ride, rough.

 

I realy like the strait axle,
Pros, 1 it's simple
2 it's strong it will not break
3 you can line it up with a measureing tape
4 it looks cool
5 with it lined up it will go nice and strait
6 15 years of driveing one I can win any arm wrestling contest.
Con, 1 the brake problem
2 the ride is not the best
3 the ps problem

 

But with aftermarket support the brake problem is basically gone by buying a front disc kit.

 

So you say Mister Nathan. Then fetch us a cost estimate to properly rebuild a stock axle. Then price out the upgrades to make this thing reasonably comfortable to drive in case that's what somebody is considering. Assume the thing is worn out but repairable. I.E. the straight axle is OK but all the wear parts are shot. Don't have a fantasy and say things like the steering box aren't shot cause you know it's looser than.............. well it's just loose, that's all .

No rush on this, don't need it tomorrow, and it doesn't have to be precise. I'm sure the stockers will help you with the list of things that require a price.

Appreciate it.

 

I have to disagree with the ride. My 56 with new stock 6.70-15 tires rides very nice. You wouldnt believe it over train tracks. It rides better that my new truck (other make) I think the problem is the stock set up gets a bad rap due to the fact that these trucks are 50 yrs old and stuff is worn out. When front ends are rebuilt they drive excellent.

Kevin

 

And for some the most important PRO:

Cheap Harmless Psychological 'Big Rig' drivin' experience.

Speakin' of which, time to head out to the driveway, spin some Red Sovine, fire up the CB, and practice some double clutchin'....

 

Really Kevin? I'know that my shocks are at least 15 years old and I the service records show no evidence of a rebuild so maybe it isn't so bad. Dad wants to rebuild it entirely! My box actually is nice and tight. :-x04

and adding on to my first post

6. It retains that whole "old truck" essence when driing

-4spee(kevin you don't drive a new ford?)

 

I estimate my front end will cost about $600 finished with disc brake kit. My steering box was excellent and lowered the front by 2" with F-1 springs. I couldn't do any other suspension for that amount. As I said I couldn't do better than that. Doesn't mean a person with good welding talent couldn't do better.

 

Kevin,
Truth is the ride really is not that bad. And with modern tires it is even better. I will not think twice about taking a 500 mi trip with my family.

 

If you stockers want to back up Deulers cost estimate as accurate, I'll trust you and go with it. But it sounds just a wee bit optimistic to me for a fresh straight axle rebuild with disk brake upgrade. We are giving real world numbers on the other IFS threads to avoid knowingly sending a newbie down the path of wallet surprise after his truck is scattered. There will be enough of that as it is. Anyway, let me know what the number is.

 

cons: drum brakes have the stopping distance of an ocean liner; steering's like driving drunk

pros: it's OEM.


Butch n Me

 

I figure it'll cost me $300-400 to completely rebuild my front end. I'm not adding disc brakes, but depending on who and where you get the componets from it'd be likely around $700-800. But that extra money you threw into it, you could have done the entire thing in a weekend easy. Try doing a front clip in a weekend and have it driving. Now if he's using junkyard componets he'd could pull it off total for around $600-700. -4speed(the guy who thinks he knows straight axle's)