1948 - 1952 F1

Top of Frame (Directly above axel) to Center line of Spindle is 7.5 inches loaded, this is with the Flathead V8
Wheel Offset .62"
Top of frame to ground:
6.00-16 4 ply - 21.08" - Axel Clearence - 8.37"
6.00-16 6 ply - 21.08" - Axel Clearence - 8.37"
6.50-16 6 ply - 21.18" - Axel Clearence - 8.47"

Add .16" for Loaded to above Axel to Ground

 

Hi i have just bought a 52 F1 that has had a 351W engine fitted.
I live in England and i need brakes the roads arn't as straight as yours steering would be good as well!!!!
Would you send me details of the brake kit you used please
i would like to keep the standard axle but Discs sound good
what sort of cost am i looking at for the kit
Many thanks
Scoot


Sorry forgot to say this reply was for ddurant

 

If it ain't too late I have some info on disc brakes and SA overhaul.

Axle rebuid:
tie rod $45
tierod ends $25 for both
king pins and bushings $37
bushings reamed at machine shop $15
steering gear box $75 (good used)
replaced all seals & gaskets $12
Total $209
all figures rounded to nearest $

Disc brake swap:
ECI complete kit w/ 5x5.5 bolt circle $350
ECI master cylinder adapter kit $75
75-79 Lincoln Continental master cylinder (new locally) $45
85 Ford p/u combination valve (salvage yard) $10
Brake lines,rubber and hard (new locally) $65
shipping $65
total $610
rounded to nearest $

I still need spring bushings and shocks replaced to "finish up"(HAH). All the work was done by me and my son in the driveway. The brake job took 3 days in the cold rain, probably a lot less inside or without the rain. The steering box was done in a half day, tie rods another half day and the king pins 2 days due to machine shop work.
With radial tires all around the old truck drives good and stops good, but you know you are riding in a truck.
These are real world costs by doing it yourself.

Bob
1960 F-100
1995 F-150
and
1997 F-150

 

Hi thanks for the info any chance of the web sight for ECI brake kits? price sounds good and which dealer did you use for the other bits they might ship if im lucky. Im coming over next year for Laughlin river run so will be looking out for trim and interior bits then.
Many thanks again
Scoot

 

Hey Scoot, the website for ECI is www.ecihotrodbrakes.com
as for the other stuff, when I say local, I mean local. These guys are hometown people who have been in business for 40 years.
Most brake things I got from Shady Oaks Auto Parts in Lake Jackson, Texas. Anyyhing I couldn't get there came from Central Auto Parts in Clute, Texas. The combo valve came from a mid to late 80s Ford pickup at a junk yard. The front end parts came from Mac's Antique Auto Parts, www.macsautoparts.com, and John's F-Fun Hundreds, but I can't recall their web address. Both Mac's and John's have web catalogs. Hope this is of some help.

Bob
1960 F-100
1995F-150
1997 F-150
Ski Nautique( I know it's not a truck but it does have a 351W)

 

Hi bob
Checked out web sight for the brakes very impressed also the prices are very good!!! To convert an old Brit car to discs would cost double or more!! I wish i had local garages that stocked F1 bits ha ha not likely mini bits maybe.
thanks again for all your help, im hoping to get truck on road for the spring really looking forward to it i have always wanted an old pickup and have gone out on a limb a bit to do it but hey so what we only live once.
Scoot

 

I'm 99% sure I want to stay with a straight front axle, but use a drop axle, disc brake conversion and PS. No one has mentioned the fact that the inner fender wells have to be modified if you change the front clip. I guess if your really good at sheet metal work it may not be too hard but I believe that not having to create inner fender panels is a pro for keeping the stock axles.

 

Good point my bodywork is very good so i dont want to chop it too much, plus spanner work i can do, metalwork i would have pay someone else.
I have a question, the strip on my bonnet ( sorry hood ) says F6
but from what i have read F1 F2 and F3 is normal? the strip seems to be original can anybody explain?
Scoot

 

"I guess if your really good at sheet metal work it may not be too hard but I believe that not having to create inner fender panels is a pro for keeping the stock axles."

Ray,

Most IFS only require a minor mod to the inner fenders. Doesn't require much skill. But you're correct, we completely failed to mention it. We would have missed a lot more if not for the synergy of forum input. I sure learned a lot about the various options.

 

Sorry if this has already been answered, but I keep seeing people mention power steering. I have a '59 Short box that I want to add power steering to. The '59 donor I bought had they type that pulls on the tie rod when you turn the wheel. This seemed to work pretty well before the brakes quit working and I stopped driving it. Are there any other ways to get power steering on my truck and keep the stock axel. I'd really like to add a tilt wheel, but the only time I ever read about anybody doing it, it's when they went to a IFS setup.

Thanks.

 

Sorry if this has already been answered, but I keep seeing people mention power steering. I have a '59 Short box that I want to add power steering to. The '59 donor I bought had they type that pulls on the tie rod when you turn the wheel. This seemed to work pretty well before the brakes quit working and I stopped driving it. Are there any other ways to get power steering on my truck and keep the stock axel. I'd really like to add a tilt wheel, but the only time I ever read about anybody doing it, it's when they went to a IFS setup.

Thanks.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by fatfenders
Here's where you discuss the Pros and Cons of leaving things just as Henry built it. Include rebuild costs if possible.

Pros

1. Time-tested strength
2. Looks very much like a Ford suspension


Cons

1. Some amount of bumpsteer is almost impossible to avoid.


why not use a latter chassis with disc brake and twin I beem, still ford, just better!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

A couple of us are trying this but it’s not easy or simple. There will be consequences to every modification you do. The ride height is an issue if you want the “slammed” look and the front-end width will be something else you will have to deal with. Dropped I-Beams are available as are offset rims, so both problems can be addressed to some degree though I haven’t gotten to that point yet. My cab is on the F-150 frame but due to other projects, I have been sidelined for over a year on this one.

There are the benefits you mentioned of disc brakes and other you didn’t, such as a stronger frame, decent suspension, improved ride and easy mounts for just about any motor/transmission available. You get a solid, engineered frame with none of the problems sometimes associated with IFS clips i.e. stress cracks, broken welds and metal fatigue caused by beefing up the front end and attaching it to a lighter more flexible rear frame.

The another disadvantage is that you will be out of the main stream with a project that will appeal to only a few, it will be a lot of work and you will be pretty much on your own. Few of us have done it and fewer have finished. Is it worth it, to do all the work and not have a modern, more “acceptable” IFS in your truck? Can you do it without hacking up another wonderful old truck? I think it is a good alternative, if its done right.

 

hi guys, instead of going that late, why not stick to a mid to late seventies as a platform, rail demmensions should be the same 34" ( i am going out with tape to see),various wheel bases, plenty aftermarket goodies, still a ladder style frame, just slightly stronger. besides, how many people do u know that could spot different frames with the body mounted?most don't want to get their knees dirty. if ford invested all that money designing something for "most conditions", why should'nt we jump on their coat tails?,just a thought from below the equator..cu..gary

 

Getting the correct Castor with shims is EXTREMELY important in making the straight axle drive well. My F100 was without any previously and would wander at will. With 2 1/2 degree shims it tracks beautifully even with 60 series rubber. It also now stops straight where before it would tend to drift no matter how much I adjusted the brakes. I am quite happy with the straight axle and am looking for power assist like my 60 Ford had.

Scott