This is NOT the Dakota "Last Call" just yet. We have enough going on to keep the editors busy for the moment.

An excerpt from our summary,,,,,,

" 4. While the donor vehicle is somewhat newer than some other systems, the range of years for the donor is only 2."

This statement may be false. Industrial Chassis advertisements in current magazines state '87 and newer Dakota donors may be used.

 

'fenders,
If memory serves, IC told me that an '86-'88 would work with their crossmember for my Dakota IFS.

Daryl

 

We better get the skinny on this donor issue. It's obviously very important.

Daryl, If we ask real nice will you get us a measurement from the BOTTOM of the frame to the center of the spindle? It should be a few inches. If you crank the wheels, you should be able to measure pretty accurate without much trouble from the backside. This is the only accurate way to measure and compare over IFS ride heights without clouding it with our differing tire diameters.

Also, this link might be real helpful to somebody down the road. It is a massive message board on "How to slam yur Dekoter"

http://www.dodgedakotas.com/cgi-bin/...xt=0&ptime=all

 

No problem: 3 1/4"

Daryl

 

Ok Gentlemen,

here is your last chance to praise, trash, curse, comment, and even add something of significant value. We are going to start compiling all the threads into the worlds best IFS comparison/summary/encyclopedia of knowledge.

last call... make your comments count...

thanks to all who have contributed and TIA for those last few..

john

 

Homespun91 posted this info in another thread. Just moving it here for posterity, as it's good stuff -

" 1) Donors with power racks are highly recommended.

2) Some early Dakotas have 10 1/2" rotors; these work fine, but replacements can be expensive (law of supply & demand). All other Dakotas have 11" rotors.

3) '86-'90 rotors are 5 lug, 4 1/2" bolt circle- which if I remember correctly is the same as the "small Ford" pattern. Swap in a 9" axle & depending on your choice get the same pattern, or get some replacement shafts from Moser Engineering and specify it. Then justify the use of these bulletproof shafts by adding another 200 hp. No, my wife didn't buy this feeble excuse either, but oh well. '91-'96 rotors are 6 lug, 4 1/2" bolt circle, but the older rotors are a direct replacement.

4) '95-'96 racks are reportedly more sensitive. '95-'96 lower A-arms need to have a hole tapped and a bump stop installed- very easy. Earlier A-arms already have the stop.

5) Some Dakotas had factory sway bars. According to I.C. the Addco & Quickor aftermarket bars will work. I have not yet tried them, though.

6) Per I.C., both Ford & Chevy P.S. pumps will work without mods. V6 & V8 Dakota hoses should work on Chevy pumps; Ford pumps will require custom hoses. One source for these is a farm implement dealer, if no auto repair facility is available. BB Ford engines require that an oil port on the rack & pinion be rotated for clearance. I.C. will do it or supply instructions, no major thing.

7) In reference to the oil pan issue, I.C. does state that Ford engines do require a rear sump pan. There's more options here than is commonly thought. Moroso & Milodon carry various pans, some for racing, a couple for 4x4 swaps. If you want Ford, Ford Motorsport...er, Ford Racing lists a couple. Going down the price list, there are rear sump pans for 429/460s in the salvage yards, but they are hard to find. Try 3/4 or 1 ton mid to late-'70s vans. For 302, or 351w engines, they are pretty easy to find- try a late '70s-'early '80s LTD/Crown Vic., or 1/2 ton vans (302 only). There are other vehicles, for sure. There was also a FE rear sump pan. I have no idea as to 351C/351M/400 engines. Just to be even more long winded, when I say "rear-sump", I mean the pans that have the small "sump" to cover the oil pump in front....but the main oil sump in back. If this is belaboring the obvious...remember that we were all 15 year old neophytes once, trying to figure out what was what by reading Hot Rod.

8) I.C. also recommends blockhugger- rear outlet headers, or manifolds, for all applications. I am setting up my '55 for either a BB Chevy, or more likely, a 460 Ford & have trial fit both. I definitely will need rear-exit headers, but I don't " yet " see a starter problem. I don't actually see how a conventional long tube header would work....but, after all, I was forewarned.

one final note: not to make this an ad for I.C., but the fit & finish, & welding quality of the kit, was excellent. The directions were about a 8.5- 9 out of 10. While mine is not done, I have ridden in a finished '56 and was very impressed with the smoothness & cornering agility of the Dakota setup. Looking forward to completing it, around 2007 or so...sigh.... "

Regards,