Transmission Power Flush-Vs- Traditional Transmission Service, Pro's and Con's ?
#1
Transmission Power Flush-Vs- Traditional Transmission Service, Pro's and Con's ?
Just looking for information on the pro's and con's of Traditional Transmission Servicing vs the Power Flush method. I know with the Power Flush method they don't change the filter. How well does this method work?
I was told the Power Flush method cleans everthing out of the Torque Converter and a Traditional Trans Service does not. Also told that Traditional Service method only replaces 1/2 the transmission fluid? Does a combination of the two service methods exist?
I just purchased this truck and want to service the trans, looking for the best method. What automatic tranmission was used on the 1996's 4.0 4x4 Rangers?
Any other suggestion on areas that need to be serviced would be helpful. Transfer case, front and rear differential?
Thanks
1996 Ranger STX 4x4 SB EC 4.0
92,500 miles on truck.
I was told the Power Flush method cleans everthing out of the Torque Converter and a Traditional Trans Service does not. Also told that Traditional Service method only replaces 1/2 the transmission fluid? Does a combination of the two service methods exist?
I just purchased this truck and want to service the trans, looking for the best method. What automatic tranmission was used on the 1996's 4.0 4x4 Rangers?
Any other suggestion on areas that need to be serviced would be helpful. Transfer case, front and rear differential?
Thanks
1996 Ranger STX 4x4 SB EC 4.0
92,500 miles on truck.
#2
It looks like you've got the gist of both methods. However, it's not an either/or situation. In my opinion, it can be important to do both: Flush the transmission and change the filter. How does the fluid look? Bright pink and clean? or brown, dirty, and with a burnt smell to it? If the fluid looks good, then a flush may not be necessary. A combination of the two services doesn't exist, but you can do both. I think the best way (someone who's better with transmissions correct me if I'm wrong) if you do both is to flush the transmission, then drop the pan and replace the filter. One thing to consider, it isn't unheard of for a transmission flush to reveal a dying transmission.
#3
My personal preference would be to drop the pan first since you can diagnose a lot just by looking at the drippings. Then do a flush.
I would worry about "flush first" forcing debris into the valve body and the rest of the tranny. I don't know if it works that way, but I do worry about distrubing the junk sitting at the bottom of the pan.
If your torque converter has a drain you could drain that and then drain the cooler and the pan and that would probably have the effect of changing 99% of the fluid. The flush might not be that big a benefit then and doing it yourself costs way less.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I would worry about "flush first" forcing debris into the valve body and the rest of the tranny. I don't know if it works that way, but I do worry about distrubing the junk sitting at the bottom of the pan.
If your torque converter has a drain you could drain that and then drain the cooler and the pan and that would probably have the effect of changing 99% of the fluid. The flush might not be that big a benefit then and doing it yourself costs way less.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
#4
Had my transmission serviced on the X last month. A buddy of mine is the service manager at an AAmco transmission shop and he told me to drop the pan on the first time and then flush the next time and then go back and fourth.
He states that it is important to change the filter on the first time because they can judge the overall condition of the valve body and see how many metal particles are on the magnet. This is an indication of proper break-in of the transmission and with less than 5k left on warranty it was at least reassuring to know everything looked OK anyway.
Terry
He states that it is important to change the filter on the first time because they can judge the overall condition of the valve body and see how many metal particles are on the magnet. This is an indication of proper break-in of the transmission and with less than 5k left on warranty it was at least reassuring to know everything looked OK anyway.
Terry
#5
Hey...Thanks for the reply's! I think doing a combination of a flush and changing the filter is the way to go. Taking the pan off will give me an idea of the condition of the trans. It works fine now...so if I find a bunch of metal in the bottom of the pan, I think it would be better to clean it out first before flushing it throughout the trans.
If i find a bunch of metal in the pan, I'll still put it back together and drive it until it goes out. Not much I can do about it, but at least I'll know the general condition.
I'm just trying to do preventive maintaince. Today I had a spray-in bed linner, under-coating and rust proofing done to the truck. Z-bart had a package deal so I went for it, cant do any harm. I plan on keeping the truck for a few years.
Mac
1996 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0 EC SB.
If i find a bunch of metal in the pan, I'll still put it back together and drive it until it goes out. Not much I can do about it, but at least I'll know the general condition.
I'm just trying to do preventive maintaince. Today I had a spray-in bed linner, under-coating and rust proofing done to the truck. Z-bart had a package deal so I went for it, cant do any harm. I plan on keeping the truck for a few years.
Mac
1996 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0 EC SB.
#6
A flush is a little misleading, you aren't really flushing the system, you are just using the internal pump to pump as normal and then routing the old fluid into a container and filling new fluid in until all you have is new fluid. You aren't going to "stir up" all sorts of junk any more than you would while it is pumping through normally. If you drop the pan, you will be able to clean out the sediment and see what is there while changing the filter...you can also drain the torque converter (which is where most of the fluid it really), and you have got everything except maybe what is in the cooler lines (very very small amount and some of that may drain too). Flush isn't bad, but I would rather clean the pan and change the filter any day over just a flush.
#7
its been my luck that when I service a tranny that is acting funny, I just signed its death warrant. It has always happened to me, ALWAYS!! I give em about 1000 miles before the tranny dies. I just did my bronco, I just lost overdrive........ (can you see where this is going )
(this has held true so far 4 times in a row, I hope I am wrong)
(this has held true so far 4 times in a row, I hope I am wrong)
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#8
Yes, I just learned today that flush should be called, a siphon. Although my mechanic friend told me that a trans filter that has sediment on it works better than a clean filter. He said it has smaller holes and strains better than a clean filter, makes sense. But he also sugested putting in a new filter.
My trans is working fine, I just want to make sure it continues to work well with a little PM.
Thanks
My trans is working fine, I just want to make sure it continues to work well with a little PM.
Thanks
#10
The std filter on many trannys is nothing but a fine screen. If a lot of crud built up on the tranny filter it might starve the pump but that rarely happens and usually only after a major malfunction. Use the in line filter for long tranny life.
Ford TSB's actually call out for an external filter on may trannys after service.
Wix transmission/PS filter #58964
200 psi working, pressure relieved, magnetic
change yearly or 12000 miles
Ford equivalent filter kit #XC3Z-7B155-AA
filter alone #XC3P-7B155-BA
The pump out method I mentioned above makes for a very complete flush and torque converter drain with no danger to any of the internals.
Ford TSB's actually call out for an external filter on may trannys after service.
Wix transmission/PS filter #58964
200 psi working, pressure relieved, magnetic
change yearly or 12000 miles
Ford equivalent filter kit #XC3Z-7B155-AA
filter alone #XC3P-7B155-BA
The pump out method I mentioned above makes for a very complete flush and torque converter drain with no danger to any of the internals.
#11
Thanks, the above mechanic is going to drop the pan, change the filter and then flush the tranny. Hopefully the best of both worlds. I thought the same thing regarding starving the pump, he told me if that was the case, you would know it.
200psi was mentioned, is this the proper working pump pressure? How do you check it? You should change the filter ever 12000 mi? I wonder if the filter has ever been changed in my truck??? Hope so if the trans is to be services ever 12000mi. i
Thanks for the kit #s and info.
Mac
1996 Ranger STX 4x4 4.0
200psi was mentioned, is this the proper working pump pressure? How do you check it? You should change the filter ever 12000 mi? I wonder if the filter has ever been changed in my truck??? Hope so if the trans is to be services ever 12000mi. i
Thanks for the kit #s and info.
Mac
1996 Ranger STX 4x4 4.0
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