You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
O.K. you guys are gonna think I'm ignorant but I have never painted or primed a vehicle before.(unless you count spray-can primer or paint.) What do they mean about mixing parts ( mix 1 part primer to 1.5 parts thinner) ????? Does a part equal a cup??
I'd save myself some headache and have a pro do it but I can't afford it, and besides there is no greater satisfaction than doing it yourself.
Please, please HELP!!
1990 F-150 4x4
1986 F-250 4x4 400 auto
1979 Cougar XR-7 400 auto
1965 Ford Galaxie 500 2dr. Hrdtp 460 auto
My basecoat calls for a 2:1 (2 to 1) mix. That's 2 parts paint and 1 part reducer.
My clearcoat calls for a 4:1 mix. That's 4 parts clear and 1 part activator.
The easiest way to measure your mix is to get a measuring stick or cup. These are marked so you can get your mix correct. They are available at auto paint stores. Myself, I use a measuring cup and it costs about 25 cents or so. Some people throw them away and just figure them as part of the paint job. I clean them and reuse them.
before you get that far, do a good...no better than good job of cleaning the area you are going to paint....no use waisting good paint that will have to be sanded flat to get rid of the dust bunnies.
next....rent or purchase a good respirator.
as mentioned...you are mixing in a reducer, or a hardener...not thinner. ask the people (called a jobber) who sold you the paint for clear instructions on its use...dont be afraid to be honest with them, they can give you better information on the paints use than we can.
best of luck, take your time, and go slow.
2002 F250 4x4,Lariat,PSD,6 speed, Island Blue, SCMT-Autometer Boost and Pyro, 4" downpipe, 5 " exhaust, "Cat" removed....thats all for now
I bought the primer at NAPA, it was Martin-Senour primer, (the color is maroon) but I don't recall right now what the number was, but their paint "expert" said to use laquer thinner to reduce it.
Also, I know you are suppose to use Metal-Prep or something of the sort to etch the bare metal so the primer will stick better but when I asked the guy he looked at me like a monkey doing a math problem, he didn't have a clue what I was talking about.
I got a feeling I'll have to sand it all down and redo it because I didn't have any Metal-Prep, just put the primer on now to keep it from rusting. (I know not a bright thing to do because it means extra work but right now I have no choice)
Thanks you guys anymore help will be appreciated!!
1990 F-150 4x4
1986F-250 4x4 400 auto
1979 Cougar XR-7 400 auto
1965 Ford Galaxie 500 460 auto
Just an educated guess by it sounds like you are using a lacquer based primer. It dries fast and provides only limited protection. It is not waterproof. It is outdated but was used for years with good results. It will need a sealer coat (normally an epoxy) prior to being painted with any of the modern paints.
For a bare metal paint, I like epoxy. It seals in any rust and seals out water. After applying, you can let it can sit for months. When it comes time to do your body filler (aka Bondo) work, you scratch the epoxy with some 80 grit and apply the filler right over the top of the epoxy. You shouldn't be doing that with your lacquer primer.
I am a believer of etching the bare metal prior to applying any paint. I use Metal Ready (not Metal-Prep) by the Por-15 people. It helps convert any micro-rust and provides a protective phosphate coating. There are a number of different brands and everyone that uses them, swears theirs is the best.
If you continue to use your lacquer primer, just remember it is not waterproof. At best, it provides limited, short term protection. About the only thing I use it for anymore is just like you described. I plan on removing it before I do additional bodywork.
That stuff Aekisu is saying about treating the metal is extremely important. You'll feel awful to see rust specks coming through your shiny smooth bodywork in four months.
A mixing stick may cost you as much as $4, often free if you're buying a bunch of stuff. A mixing cup was $1 according to my helper Jose who bought ten of these (I offered to give him a whole stack). You can clean them out an reuse them.
And once that stuff's in primer DONT leave it outside. I'm usually happy with every name brand primer except Shirley Wislon and the cheapo stuff that you just reduce with thinner and spray, that's HIDEOUS STUFF! Some cost more than others but House of Kolor primer is reasonable and I've had good results with it, I just won't buy their paint.
Last....Aekisu tends to be right on the money so feel free to print out any of his replies in these forums. They are like a free class!
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.