I think I finally got a good flathead block. It came out of a '53 Ford Tudor. It has been sitting in a shed for many years partially dissasembled. It took me about 1 hour to get it into my workshop in the barn. I had to remove a wall and pull the engine stand up several levels. I've filled the cylinders with red diesel. (For those who don't know what that is it's agricultural use diesel) I have all winter to wait...Wish me luck!

 

I forgot to mention this one is TOTALLY Free unlike the other one...

 

Good luck! Can't beat the price!! Keep us posted!

 

Sounds good, good luck with it. By the way just curious, but why is Agricultural deisel red? or a different color at all? Only thing I can guess is, its sold seperate and cheaper for farmers.

 

Good luck with the new engine Nathan. If the diesel doesn't work, I've heard ATF will. PBlaster is also good.

Larry, you've got it figured out. The red dye is added to keep us from running it on the highway. Farmers buy it without all those nasty road taxes added to the price.

 

Sorry if I'm getting off topic again but how does that keep someone from using it on the highway? Once in the tank who's to know? I believe farmers to be honest hard working folks. Is it basicly on the honor system?

 

The red cloud wafting from your exhaust is a dead give-away and the powers that be will lay heavy fines on you for stealing from the gov'ment. "Render to Caesar..."

 

Tim

Do you know of a site that completely explains the "Molassis Trick"
I have just found a Merc engine that I know will take some serious unsticking just to check it out.

 

Dick, here's where I first heard of it. It's a topic that's been covered in detail recently on fordbarn.com. You might do a search on that forum.

http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/unstick.htm

I get the feeling that the 'formula' isn't critical and that the length of time for submersion is very flexible.

I've picked up that they're talking about dry molasses, probably available at your local feed mill or ag store.

 

Tim

I saw that
Just trying to find a definative explanation, I've seen references to both dry and liquid as well as regular and sulfated molassis.
I have no doubt the it works from some of the posts and pictures I've seen.

Thanks

 

Well the diesel wasn't working for me so I went with my other move or else method. First you need a 3/4-1" steel rod about 1 foot long and what I call a mini sludge hammer. It's has a 14" handle with 3/4 of the normal sludge head. It sometimes takes a few blows to get moving but once it does it moves. Note this method wreaks your pistons but they are usually shot since the top two rings are rusted solid to the piston. Also your crankshaft must be removed to do this. For those pistons that have been eaten and are coved in the white dust and are also at the top of the piston stroke. You take a chisel and punch a 1" hole in the middle of the piston and stick the rod right on top of connecting rod. Note this also ruines your connecting rod but works. Also when pounding the piston through the bottom piston 2 and 7 must have the bottom of the piston broken off to clear the middle main cap. Mtflat what is a good way to remove stuck valves. The valves where moving until I blew a chunk of the timing gear that pinged of the wall. I don't now where it went.

 

Here are several threads on this FTE forum where Carl and others discuss the details.

Thread 1
Thread 2
Expecially Good Explanation By Carl
Thread 4

 

Thanks George, I dont know why people cant be bothered to use the Search function on this or other forums. So much info is there.

Sometimes I wonder why I (and others) even bother typing out those hints.

What the heck does it take to get them saved on "Tech" ?

Sorry, getting grouchy, been a hard day, getting too old for this s...

 

Yeah, I know about the grouchies. I had to hand carry a dead 292 block, its heads, a cruise-o-matic tranny, and a bunch of other stuff out of the garage so I can get back to work on Earl. My back is a bit achy, and the arthritis in my knees didn't like it much either. Clearing up the big mess so I have a clean place to work added the final insult to my joints.

Luckily, I have some pain medication that I'm supposed to take when my arthritis gets real bad. It's real bad because I've been doin stuff that's not too smart. Never the less, the medication still works. I know I'll probably pay for this in the long run, but at least my garage is clean and ready for action again.

Oh, one other thing, nobody tell my wife I've been doing stupid things. Oh heck, she knows I'm always doing stupid things.

 

George
Thanks

Carl
I humbly sit here with head hanging low, I have done searches on every fourm for this except FTE.

I will remember
Search, search, search