In 1989 F250HD. I think that this C6 is *not* computer controlled, while I know E4OD is.

I've been wondering about this for a while. How feasible is this swap? What does it entail? This C6 has bullet proof reliability, but I do need more gears, basically an OD gear. What kind of mileage difference can I expect with E4OD vs. C6? I currently get 11.5mpg under best conditions. C6 / 460 turns too high for my taste at highway speeds.

 

You'll need:
Computer.
Wiring harness (or portion thereof).
Drive shaft.
Crossmember.
Overdrive switch on the dash.
Exhaust Y-pipes (they are different with the E4OD due to the moved tranny cross member).
Smog pump pipes/hoses.
Various small things.
The E4OD of course - one with a 460 bellhousing will be hard to find.

Stuff that isn't different:
Starter.
Flex plate.

I'd say not to try this unless you can find a donor truck.

 

Or for about the same price or less, just get a Gear vendor over drive and keep the C6 reliability, cheap rebuilds, be able to change ALL your gear ratios one way or the other if you want to, not to mention splitting them, (can you say 6 speed automatic?) and less hastle installing it than adding all that "less reliable" "more complicated" computer junk!

Most all of those asking me for/about a C6/E4OD swap want to toss out the E4OD and install a C6!

Few ask for it the other way and lose interest REAL FAST when they see the hastle and cost!

Rebuild cost.

C6 $300 or so $800 for a super Heavy duty version.
C6 from a wrecking yard $90 to $100.

E4OD $1800 to $2400 depending on what is needed.
E4OD from a wrecking yard $1100 or so?

 

That clarifies that issue...
That's a lot of work and will probably end up as much as Gear Vendors and still not be as good.

 

You might be interested in looking at these web pages for electronics to control an electronic transmission in a non electronic vehicle:
http://www.baumannengineering.com/

 

And a minor electrical glitch destroys your $1800 trans???

Never would I, a ford factory trained electronic automatic trans mechanic, buy a ford (or any other make) with one of those electronic, fragile, overpriced, overcomplicated transmissions!

I would buy a manual and try to swap in an old tech automatic trans and OD unit, and be able to overhaul it in one day for $100 to $500 maximum and with simple hand tools!

 

Do you remeber Microsoft DOS??? is dead... well if you have a look in todays cars, almost there is no old tech automtic trannys. I think 90% or more of new cars are using electronic controlled trannys, so standar hydraulic trannys are going to disappear soon...

Yes I know, there is people using MS DOS 6.22 yet, but... what can I say...

Regards;

 

I guess I could design a system that would have a computer open my door for me at my home, just think of it, no more keys, no more turning the ****, just walk up to it like on Star Trek.

Automatic windows as well, just say, "open window" and it does.

And the water faucets, just say the temp and volume and poof, the computer gives it to me.

And when a computer glitch locks me in and before I die of dehydration, I will think, "perhaps we do not need a computer to operate EVERYTHING"

I would forgo the . 05 mpg improvement as the low tech hydraulic transmission system works fine and there is little room for improvement functionally by going to a computer controlled unit!

It's all about easing us into a world where you cannot work on your own car and have to go to the dealership to do it.

They will keep making everything more complicated and the training and equipment more specialized (ever heard of Service Bay Diagnostics?) and it will hit us right in the pocketbook!

 

I've been mentally fighting this "better mileage vs greater cost" thing for quite a while myself.

Clyde is running LT245/75's instead of the LT235/85 it came with. Considering rev/mile between the two tires I'm operating as if I had the 85's and a ~3.73 rear end. With a 3.73 axle and a Gear Vendors I'd have effective top gear ratios of: 3-OD ~3.00, 3-D ~3.73, 2-OD ~4.30.

Now with that range of choices what hill would I have trouble with?? The 3.00 is a sweet spot for mileage and cruising, getting those rpm's down and using the torque ... but at what costs???

By the time I get done with the conversion I'll have somewhere between $2,800 and $3,300 in it. That's a lot of gas to save and a lot of hills to go just a little faster on. I trust the C6 emphatically and it's a simple straight forward driveline that can be easily repaired almost anywhere.

Unless I can find one of those mythical RV installations that I can steal for a few hundred dollars I guess I'll stay stock ... unless I can WIN the lottery and then can do it for fun.