I am having trouble with my EGR Valve. It causes the truck to hesitate at a constant (low) rpm. I did the check where you unhook the vacuum line and the truck runs fine. I was wondering if anyone has unhooked the vac line permenantly and if so what did you do about that annoying check engine light?

 

why not change the egr valve $(70.00). EGR is for exsaust gas return the engine does not need it however the check engine light will always stay on if the valve is closed. (the EGR valve is closed without the vacuum hose).

 

I disconnected the vac. line on my '91 5.0 and didn't make any diff. in the way the engine runs, but the lite did come on. but went off when I put the hose back on. Also I put a very small screw driver in the slot under the diaphram and carefully raised up on it and it started to run rough., at idle w/hose in place. So I know at least it is not stuck open, or in the up position. There is also a sensor on top of mine which could go out, and the vacuum solinoid which controls vacuum to the EGR. You can disconnect the battery for about 10 min., to reset the PCM. But the lite will come on again w/out the vac. hose in place. hope to be of some help... pr1@ipa.net

 

mine has been unplugged for about 3 years. runs fine.

I am cheap though, it cost less to unplugg it than it does to replace it.
engine light didn't come on on mine. I did,however, pull an EGR code from the comp. Whoop!!

 

I've heard nasty rumors that leaving the egr vac line unhooked will cause other problems like oxygen sensor probs. Anybody else heard this?

 

If the engine runs fine with the vacuum off the the egr valve is Ok.I had a similar problem that noone could fix. I found it was the controll solinoid up by the ignition coil. It can be taken apart carefully to clean. Under the to plate is a foam filter.Under the bottom is a small spring and a rubber coated disk valve. Mine had some grit stuck in it causing vacuum to be costantly applied to the egr. I cleaned it and no more proble although I felt that I really didn't need all that nast exhaust going into my intake so just made a tin plate to go between the egr valve and the manifold.This blocks off the gasses but lets the valve work properly otherwise and the engine lite will stay off.

 

I made a blank plate as Stevieray mentions in his post and it works fine for me too. My check engine light doesn't come on anymore. The EGR valve is to help in reducing emmissions. So if you don't have to have your truck emmissions tested then I'd say this is the easiest and cheapest fix. Just take the blank off for emmissions tests.

Guy

'92 F150 XL 4x4, 5.0L AOD, Headers, K&N Air Filter, 3.55 Gears, LT235/75/15 Tires.

 

Guy, what was your engine doing to cause you to zero in on the egr? Also, how do you like the K & N filter? I'm thinking about ordering one. I believe there about $40. for the rectangular one on the early 90's. Did you take off the snorkel that goes from the intake plastic hsg to the intake area under the front of the hood? pr1@ipa.net

 

stevieray: what yr model is yours & engine? mine is all plastic and the top comes off but there is no bottom part to remove , where the 2 vac. lines connect. From the top, all I can see is the little coil that operates the electro-magnet I recon, which does the opening and closing,but don't see any moving parts. Mine is '91 5.0 auto. I need to check this evr solinoid also on my son's '94 Topaz. Do you know if you can try 12 volts to it and hear it open and close?
'91 5.0 lariat, mint
'97 G. Marquis
'94 Topaz
'53 two door sedan
long history of Fords!!

 

Hey Pross, The reason I homed in on the egr valve was due to very bad idling probs last year. The computer was setting every code in the book(figure of speech). I blanked off the egr port at the intake manifold to see if the egr valve was my problem. It wasn't. It ended up being the O2 sensor and Idle air solenoid but the blank stayed on unknowingly after I resolved the problem and no codes were ever set because of this. My problem was unrelated to yours but the fix should still work.

As for the K&N filter, I think it's ok. I didn't notice a power increase but for $70CDN It should pay for itself in a couple of years. My whole intake is stock, snorkel and all.

Guy


'92 F150 XL 4x4, 5.0L AOD, Headers, K&N Air Filter, 3.55 Gears, LT235/75/15 Tires.

 

My experience in installing a K&N filter was nil. Went on a trip to Florida last year. Drove from MD with the standard Motorcraft filter. Return trip was with a K&N. There was no increase in gas milage worth mentioning, and no noticable performance increase.

Unless you install the cold air inlet with the filter, you're just wasting $42. That's my personal opinion and experience.

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94 E-150 Mark III High Top Conversion Van 4.9/C-6
89 Mustang LX 5.0 - 5 speed - Original owner

 

My truck is a 1993 supercab 4x4 5.0 5spd. You could possibly try blowina iar throug the various porst including the one under the top cap as this is the vent hole, the rubber coated disk seals at the opposite side of this hole which goes through the solinoid coil. Glad to hear that the block plate works. SR.