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Anyone remove the AIH relay and move GPR to fender?

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Old 11-29-2013, 02:29 PM
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Anyone remove the AIH relay and move GPR to fender?

Has anyone taken the AIH delete further and pulled the relay itself? I'm considering installing the stancor GPR on the pass. fender by extending the wires, and deleting the AIH relay, removing the bracket as well, to clean up the valley in this area.

The threads on this to date have not cleared up for me what resistors go where with the AIH relay removed completely. I think I'll just start experimenting and see if there is a way to keep the codes at bay.
 
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Old 11-29-2013, 05:33 PM
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That's not a bad idea at all!

Reps to you for this innovation.

Be sure to use appropriately-sized wire extensions, and some split-loom.

Pop
 
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Old 11-29-2013, 06:53 PM
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I removed the AIH relay and installed two conventional size glow plug relays. Each supplies current to glow plugs on one side of the engine, so I expect them to last longer since each one only carries half the current.

I wired the coil of one GPR in the conventional sense; one side is hot with the key on and the PCM applies a ground to activate. The second GPR coil has one side grounded and is supplied with power from the output of the first.

I connected the GPR monitor wire from the PCM to the output of the second relay. This way, the PCM will set a code if either relay fails, and the PCM activate line only has to sink the current of one relay.

Chris
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 01:00 AM
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That may very well extend their life.

This old link on PSN was my inspiration to consider this mod.

Completely removing AIH relay? - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:35 AM
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You want to use a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor.. I have made many of them in the past. This will simulate the AIH being in place and eliminate the codes associated with it.
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:31 AM
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Good deal. I have a bunch of those at work. I'm wondering if using one from the blue PCM sense wire to ground is enough ( I know it eliminates the soft code with the relay in place), or if, when the relay is removed, a further resistor is needed.

Wondering if the PCM checks AIH activation by seeing if the sense wire goes to 12V when the contactor closes. With just the resistor to ground and no relay in place, the sense wire would never go to 12V.

Chris >> you eliminated your AIH relay entirely - any codes or CEL with your installation?
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BWST
Chris >> you eliminated your AIH relay entirely - any codes or CEL with your installation?
I never got around to installing the resistor, so a code is set but it doesn't illuminate the CEL.

Chris
 
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:39 PM
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My stancor relay arrived and I decided to remove the auto hub locking solenoid on the fender, and put the stancor relay there. My hubs are manual anyway. I removed all the vacuum hoses related to the locking hubs, and re-attached the vac line coming from the HVAC to the vacuum reservoir.

The relay uses the same holes the hub solenoid used. I just added washers to the bolts. I did bend the bracket tabs on the stancor a bit to angle it away from the fender for better access to the top connections.

Now to figure out how to get power to it. I can see how to extend the glow plug and relay activation wires. I was hoping to pull the AIH or GPR power cables back to where I need it, but they are part of an interesting harness - they are 4" stubs that splice to the main cable fed by the two 12AWG fuseable links at the fender starter relay.

I'd like to just take power directly from the starter relay. Its now right next to the stancor relay I installed. I wonder if I could find a 8" or so fuseable link like the one already feeding the relays. Otherwise, I thought I could get a 24" battery cable and bolt it to one of the power wires and run it back to the fender to feed the stancor. That would also keep the wire protected by the existing fuseable links.
 
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:47 PM
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Looks like fuseable link length is important. I'd need to duplicate the existing 2 12GA links and their length. Might be safer to just extend the batt wires as I discussed above.
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BWST
My stancor relay arrived and I decided to remove the auto hub locking solenoid on the fender, and put the stancor relay there. My hubs are manual anyway. I removed all the vacuum hoses related to the locking hubs, and re-attached the vac line coming from the HVAC to the vacuum reservoir.
Jeff, I really hope you're documenting each steps with pictures to be posted later in a How-To thread.

Stewart
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:06 AM
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Yes pics when your done.
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:54 AM
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I'll definately do this.
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:42 PM
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I like the idea of cleaning up the valley. Subscribing.

However, the dieselsite page discussing the AIH delete mod states that if the blue wire is completely removed from the AIH relay, then a diagnostic scanner cannot do a full contribution test. Does anyone know how to get around this issue? Does the issue apply to only certain types of scanners, or is it a universal reality, including AE?
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:36 PM
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I hope to figure this out. I will test different options with AE. I have not found how this was solved or if, on the web.
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Jeff, I really hope you're documenting each steps with pictures to be posted later in a How-To thread.

Stewart
I concur....
 


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