F350 4x4 1996 Turbo Diesel locking hubs chrome covers on them.
Any good manuals out there for doing this?
I tried to get a shop manual off ebay but missed out on the bids.

Jack

Bradenton, Fla

 

i responded with a link but it didn't show up. I posted it again and there was a screen saying something but didn't read it all before it jumped back to the forum. Third times the charm, it said it must be approved by a moderator

... so Mr Moderator, only approve the first one please and sorry about the triple posting.

 

The spindle is pressed into the steering knuckle, so after removing the 5 nuts, you have to heat the knuckle from behind to expand it and use a chisel between the knuckle and spindle to get the spindle started, then pry it off. At least that is how I had to get mine off after 16 years of being assembled.

 

He probably got it off by now.

 

Yeah you're right about that. I thought it was going to take that long for me to get them off. I did notice the date on his question and the other comments, but until someone actually answers the question about how to accomplish the task (and it certainly is that),, the subject is still open to those other individuals out there who are trying to do the job on their own and have hit a wall in disassembling the spindles and axles.

 

take those 5 bolts off,knock out the bolts, and use a block of wood, a big hammer and lots of pb blaster, hit the spindle with the block of wood out on the end of the threads. it aint easy but keep going it will eventually break loose. then you can service the bearing on the inside of it. you might as well replace the u joint on the axle shaft while your in there.

 

Hub comes of with ring clip two lock rings after that now spindle is held on by 6 nuts on the back side of the knuckle I've you remove those take a big rubber mallet and work your way around the spindle hitting it should break it loose if not soak it in pb blast where the spindle and knuckle meet then go after it again since these aren't removed much they are usually pretty well rusted together
P.s. I should read all posts before replying

 

I just did this, but my manual's different. When tourquing the hub back on after installing new wheel bearings/races, it had me torque the first nut to 50ftlbs and then "loosen nut aprox 90 degrees, and install lock washer and nut to 150ftlbs. There was nothing about retorquing to a lower number.
This was a chiltin manual, was it correct?

 

torquing the inner nut to 50ftlbs seats bearing and backing off 90 degrees sets preload,installing lock washer keeps inner nut from moving via pin on inner nut in hole on lock washer, torquing outer nut to 150ftlbs keeps everything tight on spindle.

 

I used a plastic (non-marring) hammer to get mine off. Nothing slid apart easy when I took my front end apart, even the rotors had to be beat off the hubs. Anti-seize and a torque wrench were the name of the game putting everything together.

 

90degrees just seems like a very inaccurate way of achieving preload, especially when a torque wrench is right there waiting.

 

you want negetive pressure on the bearings. the chiltons manual says to back off 90 degrees. i have done quite a few this way and have never had a problem

 

Good to know, thanks!

 

The "flaps" az,advance others have a rental tool known as a 4wd spindle puller . Threads on where lock nuts go.,connects to a slide hammer ,took 5,6 pulls with mine ,that made toothpicks out of a 2x4 with an 8 lb sledge.
OTC Tools (OTC7502) an example ,no relation


4WD Front Spindle Puller

My best ,Ed