82 model trucks had only two different gear ratios in the 9 inch somthing like a 270 and a 300 the ford guy i was talking to today ( he realy knows what he is talking about he knows all the history of the years and the models) told me that, he also said that if i had a 270 rear end my truck would not spin at all unluss i really had a lot of power but the 300 is lower geared and my old motor spinned the tires on that truck. it is and ext. cab truck with a c6 so i think it had a 300 ratio for heavy duty.it has stock rims and tires 15 inch not very wide

 

look at the id tag on the rear end, but going to 3.55 3.73 would be a big help. a 300 is fine on the hwy, but it doing nothing for getting you moveing quick. DW

 

the foed guy recomends a 3.50 i don't know how much of a difference it will make from a 3.55 but this truck might be a daily drive. i will be putting it in a 76 mustang 2 soon if i can get thetitle fixe if not my fiance has an 80 reg. cab swb f100 i can drop it in.unless i get 500 dollars and put it in a 91 thunderbirdwhat about the gears though.

 

well you gona need some gear to get it moving, you realy need to find out what the specs on the cam are, like i said the dur. @ .050 is the most important thing. how did you in stall the cam? did you use a stock gear set? DW

 

yes i bought the 1990 double roller chain bye cloyes from oriely's

 

If that 286 is advertised duration then your cam is designed to make power from 2000rpm+, makes sense why it picks up when you are going 50 in second on a c6 your probably turning what 3500-4000rpm? Does it have a lumpy idle? That would be somewhat of a giveaway. Good luck

If you think the rear gears have been changed or can't find a code and want to find out manually then look at this

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...ic/134375.html

 

yes it does lope pretty good

 

Well you may very well have a cam that is not meant for you application. However it is cheap to install a new one or you could get a higher stall converter and if mpg is no concern go 4.10, then you can keep the lopey idle. What kinda vacuum do you have/ do you have power brakes? good luck

 

yes i do have power brakes
i got a good bit of vacuum and also i found my cam card. but some of it is torn away
sae timing btc is 27
.050 duratio intake is 204 exhaust is 214
.050 timing is -6
cam lift intake is 280 exhaust is 296 valve lift int. is450 exh. is 474
sae duration is 280intake and 289 exhaust
so where do i time the truck to the cam card specs to make the most power

 

that should be a nice cam for the street, what timming gear set did you use? DW

 

If the cam was installed straight up and the timing marks are correct and you have a known reference mark on the pointer and balancer that were at tdc then go ahead and set it at 8-10 btc as mentioned above, lock the distributor down go for a drive from a stand still give it quite a bit of gas if you do not hear a ping or knock of any kind then bump it just a bit keep doing this until you hear a ping then back it off or leave it at 8-10 if you heard no pinging as you won't gain much hp if you keep advancing it anyways so why take the risk of detenation with poor gas. Your cam is fairly mild so it shouldn't have a very rough idle, looks like it could very well be an rv/torque cam. Set the timing with a light and go from there. Good luck

 

right now all i know about the timing gears is that they are for a 90 model cloyes double roller chain set

 

I could be wrong here but unless you have your distributor way outa wack , i bet you put the cam in 4 degr. retarded, if so you need to pull the timming cover and reset your gears either stright up or 2 degr. adv. DW

 

what do you mean by straight up? with the dots pointed towards each other or what. well the ford guy i talked to said when i have the cam card, which i found but i am still going to call mellings to get the full specs, to bring it over and we will adjust the cam timing and the carb and also the distributor the way they should be. he also said the the duraspark ignition was a really good setup to be a stock ignition system. he said some nascar team run them in there cars. with a good coil and 9mm wires it will put out good sparks everytime. what do you think. i might keep it but it just makes the whole motor look a little bad since it is not billet. but i don't know.

 

Straight up means dot to dot, not advanced or retarded with a multi-key timing set.

Duraspark is good but DurasparkII would be better I think, for a stock ignition anyway.