I didn't like the nicop because it was TO easy to bend. As in if I needed to tweak a bend then it would dent and not look right. And the stainless was not really that tough to work with. I think having the really nice flaring tool made that part so much easier. And using the nicop line as my test and sample lines just made things so much easier. As well as having the tip of setting up the guide bends really helped.

The next reason was the color I chose to do my frame. The copper color looked like crap next to it. The stainless looked so much nicer.

One last tip is make sure that you put your adapters on BEFORE you flare and do not assume that the will slide past a bend. Just me. They won't. LOL

I was looking to see an I have not taken any pics of my lines now that they are installed on the painted frame. I'll get so next time I'm in the garage.

 

did u buy the stainless in coils? Wonder how those eastwood tools for straightening out coiled tubing work? In my research before and during this thread, I came across a lot of reference to "In Line Tubing". Two things I got from their site. When using stainless, they claim their stainless is easy to work with when bending and flaring. They also recommend never using a tubing cutter to cut tubing. Once the blade becomes dull (if you do not recognize it and change it out) will work harden the metal. Once its hardened, it will tend to tear when flanged.

 

I actually bought straight lengths of SS tube. i just could not see spending all that money on one of those straighteners. I was able to find the tubing in straight lengths and I recall it actually being just a few dollars more than the role for the same amount.

I did use a pipe cutter. But I bought a brand new one for the job. Also made sure to use a good machine oil when flaring. Made things go very easy.

 

Honestly, I think a tubing cutter is the only way to go, but with the habit of changing out the cutter after several jobs. Cutting oil has to be a big help too. I think tubing cutter vs hand saw or cutting wheel is hands down more accurate on "square cut".

 

Agreed. The only way to get a square, burr free cut is with a tubing cutter.

When I was replacing my lines, a couple months ago, I went to the local NAPA and bought straight replacements. I did the bending with an inexpensive bender I bought at Advance Auto. Having done similar jobs in the past, I have a flaring tool, (didn't need it this time), and as I recall, I bought it at a plumbing supply store. Again, it was rather inexpensive.

 

Pb, did you use nickel copper or stainless?

 

Stainless. It was a little stiff, especially with my cheapy, hand held bender, but it was workable.

 

For what its worth. Just got off the phone with tech support, Inline Tubing. Tech emphasized, "DO NOT USE Tubing cutter on stainless tubing". It hardens the tubing and makes flaring more susceptible to tearing. Use cut off saw or cut off wheel. I gave in and ordered a Mastercool 71475 PRC Universal flaring tool. After I finish new brake lines on three trucks, I will sell (unless I build another project).

 

I think its pretty common for the rear of old ford trucks to have the brake line running parallel to the axel when routing brake fluid to both rear wheel cylinders. Is there any good reason I can not keep the hard line up inside the frame, cross over to other side of frame inside frame cross member and convert from side rails to wheel cylinder with stainless braided (flex) brake lines that are used in the front steer axel? I realize I don't need the flexible lines in the rear, but it just seems like it would be a nice install to have the only brake line showing being the braided hose from frame rail to wheel on all four wheels.

 

So on our mid fifty F-fifty F-100-600s, are the brake lines consistently 3/16 double flares? Is there a difference between double and inverted flare? I swapped out the stock axel under my 250 for a 70's dual axel, It has 1/4 inch line running between brakes on rear axel. Is it better to drop down to 3/16 or just run 1/4 right out of the master?

 

Always double flare brake lines. If the axle had 1/4" lines from the rear hose to each rear wheel I would stick with that and also run 1/4" from the master to the rear hose. Must be large wheel cylinders that need a lot of volume.
Inverted flare and double flare are the same thing.

 

Thanks dr. Somewhere I read an easy way to determine brake tubing diameter is to put an open end wrench over the tubing to accurately determine the difference between 3/16 and 1/4. My understanding there is different wall thickness of brake tubing, so I never really figured out how that could be accurate.

 

that is because tube is measured by OD, hose or pipe is measured by ID.

 

Thanks again dr, so if I understand correctly, the use of a 3/16 or 1/4 box end wrench will determine what size stock lines are, correct?

 

Just found your thread, and, after just doing most of my plumbing I would like to say that the Nicopp tubing is nice to work with. I used a pipe cutter to cut it, and a couple different types of benders. I had one for the 3/16" brake lines that was like a plier for tighter bends. It worked quite well. I did notice that over-working the tubing did work harden it, so once you bend it it's hard to un-bend if the bend is in the wrong place. Coat hanger works well for mocking up your tubing before you bend it. I did all my brakes in 3/16" and fuel lines, power steering/hydroboost lines in 3/8". I will do my tranny lines in 3/8" as well. There are lots of fittings to adapt to these sizes. I did brake lines to metric adaptors, since I was using the C4 Corvette brakes and booster. This was a different flare than the double. I'm doing all the 3/8" stuff to -6AN fittings since they have adaptors to work with everything. I didn't like the AN flex lines as they seemed too bulky for me, but running the 3/8" to AN was acceptable. The brakes lines all work, no leaks first try, didn't have to redo any of them. I actually like the look of the Nicopp. I bought it on Amazon through thestopshop.