1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

351w engine build bullnose

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  #31  
Old 03-18-2017, 08:11 PM
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Two comments probably not of great importance but offer them anyway.
1. Gary, some 351Ws did have heat riser valves; my '84 did.
2. shorty headers are indeed easier to use. My Frankenstein truck has JBA shorties with an H pipe and no cats and the exhaust clears everything nicely.
 
  #32  
Old 03-18-2017, 08:34 PM
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Ok so would I be able to delete that map sensor? I am thinking ihave something like this kit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...MobileSwitchNo.

Really weird because all the wiring looks original but some parts point towards it being duraspark III and some duraspark II. Maybe I am over thinking this.
 
  #33  
Old 03-18-2017, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Since you are learning as you go, and don't have anything to work with, why not buy a Ford HEI distributor and drop it in? There is something to be said for keeping things simple, and that would be the simplest ignition you could put in it as far as wiring goes.

Manual choke would be simple, just carefully drill a hole in the firewall for the cable.

Not sure why you are set on headers. They are a real pain to install and hook up underneath and then you can't work on the transmission. They hang down below the frame and all in all, are not worth it. I would try shorties before I ran long tube headers.
I want headers because I know they have huge gains on EFI trucks. Also if on carved trucks there is gains from shorty I will run them. I guess the reason I don't drop a HEI in is because I am a novice trying to figure all this out.
 
  #34  
Old 03-18-2017, 09:00 PM
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I agree with Rusty - doesn't look like an intake for a carb.
 
  #35  
Old 03-18-2017, 09:18 PM
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Not sure at this point in all honesty. However I have a carb in the truck that says Holley on it.i can't figure out why it has what looks like a throttle possition sensor.
Trav
 
  #36  
Old 03-18-2017, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
Not sure at this point in all honesty. However I have a carb in the truck that says Holley on it.i can't figure out why it has what looks like a throttle possition sensor.
Trav
If its a holley and says holley on it and it has a tps on it, could be a throttle body.
 
  #37  
Old 03-18-2017, 09:54 PM
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That may be a "throttle kicker" - a solenoid that raised the idle speed when the A/C came on.
 
  #38  
Old 03-18-2017, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
That may be a "throttle kicker" - a solenoid that raised the idle speed when the A/C came on.
Could be or could be like that kid with that old 78 bronco I worked on at work he asked me where his cruise control went. I told him its right there on the back of the engine still why? he said no that little can on the carb. I said oh you mean the step up solenoid.

Dumb ******* thought that A/C solenoid was cruise control.
 
  #39  
Old 03-18-2017, 10:13 PM
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It is possible that it is the throttle kicker.

Either way the original set up is gone. I am beginning to like the idea of a HEI kit. I could delete most of the wiring and emissions stuff that way being alot cleaner under the hood.
I found out my buddy is running HEI on his 67 bronco 302 (soon to be 351).
Also running shorty headers.
Trav
 
  #40  
Old 03-19-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
It is possible that it is the throttle kicker.

Either way the original set up is gone. I am beginning to like the idea of a HEI kit. I could delete most of the wiring and emissions stuff that way being alot cleaner under the hood.
I found out my buddy is running HEI on his 67 bronco 302 (soon to be 351).
Also running shorty headers.
Trav
You are getting there.

I am not sure how you figured out you get tremendous gains from headers. Sure you may get 5-10hp, but that is hard to feel on a old heavy truck. I know every bit counts in the end, but the aggravation of the installation negates any gain you get.

If you are out in the woods and keep hitting the headers on rocks and stumps and tearing the exhaust off, it's not worth it.

If you can't get the tranny pan off to do maintenance and change the filter, it's not worth it.

If you can't hardly get the starter off to change it, it's not worth it.
 
  #41  
Old 03-19-2017, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
You are getting there.

I am not sure how you figured out you get tremendous gains from headers. Sure you may get 5-10hp, but that is hard to feel on a old heavy truck. I know every bit counts in the end, but the aggravation of the installation negates any gain you get.

If you are out in the woods and keep hitting the headers on rocks and stumps and tearing the exhaust off, it's not worth it.

If you can't get the tranny pan off to do maintenance and change the filter, it's not worth it.

If you can't hardly get the starter off to change it, it's not worth it.
Or if the headers hit the frame, as Big Blue's do, it ain't worth it. And these are L&L's - one of the most expensive out there.
 
  #42  
Old 03-19-2017, 02:58 PM
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big reason why I opted away from headers. I will just get a replacement passengerside manifold as mine I had to drill out for the hot air choke but didn't take the manifold off so drilled a bit off center. Works for now but the build I will do will have aftermarket heads factory manifolds with factory intake and carb along with roller cam. Nothing too crazy just something to get more than the at best 110 - 120 hp this emission engine is rated at.
 
  #43  
Old 03-19-2017, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Or if the headers hit the frame, as Big Blue's do, it ain't worth it. And these are L&L's - one of the most expensive out there.
Originally Posted by Rusty_S
big reason why I opted away from headers. I will just get a replacement passengerside manifold as mine I had to drill out for the hot air choke but didn't take the manifold off so drilled a bit off center. Works for now but the build I will do will have aftermarket heads factory manifolds with factory intake and carb along with roller cam. Nothing too crazy just something to get more than the at best 110 - 120 hp this emission engine is rated at.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
You are getting there.

I am not sure how you figured out you get tremendous gains from headers. Sure you may get 5-10hp, but that is hard to feel on a old heavy truck. I know every bit counts in the end, but the aggravation of the installation negates any gain you get.

If you are out in the woods and keep hitting the headers on rocks and stumps and tearing the exhaust off, it's not worth it.

If you can't get the tranny pan off to do maintenance and change the filter, it's not worth it.

If you can't hardly get the starter off to change it, it's not worth it.
On the EFI trucks there is quite a bit as the manifolds are restrictive. If there is no gain then I will just get new manifolds. Are the EFI 302 manifolds the same? It will save me costs so no complaining.
Makes the exhaust easier because I am using the true duals on there just a little louder muffler.
This HEI distributor should work right?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...83bk/overview/


Rusty all I am looking for is a little more power than my 88 f150 hardly over stock build is.
Trav
 
  #44  
Old 03-19-2017, 08:13 PM
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That distributor should work well. They sell cheaper ones on ebay, but a few people have had quality control problems with them.

The EFI manifolds are the same, except they have the hole for the oxygen sensor where a older carbed engine without the computer would not have the sensor hole.
 
  #45  
Old 03-19-2017, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
That distributor should work well. They sell cheaper ones on ebay, but a few people have had quality control problems with them.

The EFI manifolds are the same, except they have the hole for the oxygen sensor where a older carbed engine without the computer would not have the sensor hole.
The O2 goes into the y-pipe not manifold on EFI trucks. I have a spare manifold from my 88 build.
Trav
 


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