It looks like you have a very complete computer-controlled feedback carbureted system. You are one of the lucky ones - it looks like the person who did the engine swap actually knew what they were doing and took the time to put everything back. I would NOT change it or take anything off. Aside from a missing smog pump and the underhood light, I don't see anything else that's missing.

Since you have a complete system, you will not gain anything by swapping out your feedback carburetor for a standard one. If you do that, be prepared to re-engineer your whole engine. For starters, you will have to change out your entire ignition system for one that is all mechanical. And then you are going to have to do some engine tuning. The computer-controlled ignition system (and EEC-IV computer) you have takes care of most of the tuning for you but it is not compatible with a standard 2 barrel or any 4 barrel carburetor.

The Motorcraft 2150A feedback carburetor you have is not much different than the standard Motorcraft 2150 or older Autolite 2100. These are the simplest, most reliable, and most efficient carburetors you can have. Anything else is going to be MORE trouble, not less.


You would need a different carburetor and an entirely different ignition system. The Dura Spark II (DSII) is what Ford used right before they went to computer-controlled ignition systems. If you have access to a junkyard to get the wire harness, distributor, coil, and ignition module from an earlier 1980 - 1984 model that didn't use a computer, you can convert it fairly easily and cheap. If you don't, you would have to get aftermarket parts, and I do not recommend going that route because that can get pricey real quick and most of the aftermarket parts today are of such poor quality.

It would be much easier and cheaper to just fix what you have.

 

So, as it sits, I should replace the vacuum lines and check for other vacuum leaks before going any other route? This truck has been sitting for a couple months now. Every time I fix one thing, something else goes wrong, and it's all been carb related so far.

 

Your truck is 33 years old; you have to expect some wear. Check all vacuum hoses for leaks. Check the plugs and wires. Make sure the choke is operating properly. The O2 sensor is very important to these systems and is considered a "wear" item; if it looks original, I would replace it. Plus, sitting isn't good for any vehicle, especially older vehicles that have a carburetor. The ethanol in modern gas means the gas doesn't last as long as it used to and it eats away at the seals on carburetors if the vehicle sits for a long period of time.

If everything that goes wrong is "carb related," why not rebuild it? These carburetors are simple to rebuild, and a rebuild kit is less than $30. That's the beauty of these old trucks.

The large red plug on the passenger's side by the battery is an EEC-IV diagnostic plug. That means you can pull codes from the engine computer to help you determine what the problem(s) may be, just like any modern fuel-injected vehicle. That would be a good place to start.

When you get it running correctly, you will have the best of both worlds: the simplicity of a carburetor with the self-tuning and diagnostic benefits of EFI.

 

A little off-topic, but what's that large black plastic box to the right of the picture? It's just outboard of the windshield washer/coolant overflow reservoir.

 

It's a tool box. It's got room for a few quarts of oil, a tow rope, rags, etc...