I'm having a 390 built from a 360. I need to buy parts. Right now I have full msd with mechanical distributor.
Switching to rpm intake from the sp2p. Switching from edelbrock 750 cfm to a smaller holley (maybe).
Sanderson shorty headers.
Thinking of the Comp 270 cam but unsure of solid or hydraulic. Crane or Oregon cam?
I'd like a hopped up 390 but nothing too crazy. I would like it to last a long time . Daily driver/ weekend cruiser. Stock valve size good for head? Would cobra jet size work? Are the oiling mods a plus or does it matter? Planning on stock piston. Will need vacuum for power brakes!

For 55 f100. 3:25 rear gear. C6 trans.. your input is appreciated.

 

I consider oiling mods a must do, for sure do the head restrictors.
CJ valves help wake up a 390, at min I'd go with the CJ exhaust valve and hardened seat.
A bit pricey but I recommend you look into some of the modern hydraulic roller cam kits.

 

I agree with Destroked for the oiling mods. It's already apart and it's cheap insurance to keep those bearings well fed. Ditch the MSD 8594 for a good old DuraSpark that's been recurved to match your build. You'll want vacuum advance for partial throttle response on a daily driver and the DS is more than up to the task, so no need to shell out big $$ on the MSD w/vacuum.

As far as cams go it's up to you whether you want to go roller or not. It's quite a price jump.. but no more special oils and the valve train is quieter and takes less abuse. The 270h is tried and true but there are lots of good grinds out there from Comp, Crower, Oregon, Lunati, etc. Call up the cam companies or some FE vendors and ask them for recommendations and pick what you like. They should set you up right. Just make sure it's degreed properly and you have a good timing set. NIB is still off sometimes.

Bigger valves alone are an improvement but not a huge game changer. Because then you'll want to do some porting while you're in there to make better use of those CJ valves, and it all can get close to aluminum in price, and depending on that cost, it could be money better spent elsewhere. If the price is right then by all means. I have them

A 4300 autolite (600cfm), 600cfm edel, 735cfm holley, would all be fine fits for carbs, though I'd lean towards the smaller side. That 750 might make a little more power, but you'll notice the gas tank drain more than you will the seat of your pants dyno lol.

 

Contact Summit racing. They have dedicated FE rebuild section. Talk to a representative they can assist you. Just my 2 cents.

 

Block is at machine shop right now. Just found a crank. I'm going to need to find rods and pistons. Any body have any ? Is the 8594 going good to hurt me that bad?

 

I like a vacuum advance dist for a daily driver but since you already have the mechanical you can try it out, or if it's new contact them about swapping for one with vacuum advance.

I was going to go with a Dura Spark but found a good deal on a MSD 8595 with vacuum advance.

 

What size bore do you need for pistons? I may have some.

The 8594 will work, it's a fine dizzy, it's just about application. Vacuum advance on the street will net you maybe 1-2mpg and will have better partial throttle response. You could ask MSD what they would do about a trade in for the 8595, but again you'll be out more $$ because the 95 is more. A fresh custom recurved Duraspark can be had for about 200, about the going price of a used 8594. Just some food for thought

 

I hope you don't mind me asking here..Im considering doing the same with my 360. I located someone with a crank rod and pistons for a 390. How do you know that's actually what your buying? Are there casting numbers on everything so I know for sure?

 

There will be a 2U, 2UA, or 3U on the 3rd? counterweight from the snout. Rods will be 6.488" for 390/406/427 and 6.54" for 352/360. The long (skinny) rods seems to stay relatively the same width the whole way down the I beam, the shorter rod widens from one end to the other much more noticeably. Side by side it's easy to see the difference but I don't have a pic handy. For pistons you'll want a 390 car piston, which is actually the same as the 360 truck pistons if you're going to be at standard bore. If not and you're going to an oversize then find one with a 1.76 compression height, NOT 1.66. This will restore quench and up compression to closer to 9.5-10:1 depending on other variables.

 

After messaging him a couple times he has no crank the the rods and pistons are for a 410. Maybe I'll proceed with an intake and headers for now and look into larger displacement at a later date.

 

Sorry I left a couple out. Those rods will work, but the 410 piston is the same as the 390 truck piston and will give poor quench/compression. Usually easy enough to find a full 390 rotating assembly so you might as well get it all together.

Headers and intake will definitely perk it up and will be even better if you upsize later. Does it need rebuilt or do you just want more power? Both?

 

At this point I dont think it needs a rebuild. I'm looking for a little more power and reliability. I did and intake and headers on my Highboy 390 and I really like the way it turned out. If an RV cam will help I'm down with that as well. Ive never changed a cam but want to learn. Maybe a rebuild down the road. Thanks for all your info.

 

It turned out the 360 was shot. Cracked heads and block. Found a nice 390 short block locally. Off to the Machine shop Monday or Tuesday.