changing intakes? stock 2 brl to edelbrock 7105
#1
changing intakes? stock 2 brl to edelbrock 7105
im having issues, im changing intakes but the new 7105 edelbrock has holes drilled for certain fittings or vacuum lines my stock intake didnt have and im not really sure how to route my hoses or what to do with them, has anyone done this conversion and how did you route your lines. i was going to use a carb spacer for the vacuum and pcv valve and im not going with a heated spacer since i live in west tx where it isnt that cold... if anyone has any pics it would be a huge help, and thank you for the assistance
#4
thanks, temperature sending unit is a good idea, as for the other...that's kinda what I was thinking it was for... I'm running my pcv to a spacer and was probably going to run my vacuum line to the carb, ... Would the intake runner be a better option?
#5
I honestly don't know if it matters which you use for vacuum assist on brakes.
Unless you're legally required, I'd just skip the PCV and put open breathers on each valve cover. I went nuts on a custom FE with my PCV valve sucking a ton of oil. I tried baffles, traps, and an expensive adjustable PCV valve before giving up. I use a 195F t-stat to make sure the motor is warm enough to drive off moisture. Or you might get lucky and nail it with the right PCV valve from the start.
Unless you're legally required, I'd just skip the PCV and put open breathers on each valve cover. I went nuts on a custom FE with my PCV valve sucking a ton of oil. I tried baffles, traps, and an expensive adjustable PCV valve before giving up. I use a 195F t-stat to make sure the motor is warm enough to drive off moisture. Or you might get lucky and nail it with the right PCV valve from the start.
#7
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#8
I honestly don't know if it matters which you use for vacuum assist on brakes.
Unless you're legally required, I'd just skip the PCV and put open breathers on each valve cover. I went nuts on a custom FE with my PCV valve sucking a ton of oil. I tried baffles, traps, and an expensive adjustable PCV valve before giving up. I use a 195F t-stat to make sure the motor is warm enough to drive off moisture. Or you might get lucky and nail it with the right PCV valve from the start.
Unless you're legally required, I'd just skip the PCV and put open breathers on each valve cover. I went nuts on a custom FE with my PCV valve sucking a ton of oil. I tried baffles, traps, and an expensive adjustable PCV valve before giving up. I use a 195F t-stat to make sure the motor is warm enough to drive off moisture. Or you might get lucky and nail it with the right PCV valve from the start.
#9
At one point I wanted to see how the oil under the valve covers behaved at various rpms so I rigged up a clear lid for a valve cover and watched the rockers work. Oil oozed over the rockers until around 2000 rpms, then it splashed and by 2500 it was a fog. So if you keep your sustained rpms below 2500 your PCV will suck less oil.
Also, I found this adjustable valve helpful.
Dual Flow Adjustable PCV Valve ? M/E Wagner Performance Products
I'm guessing you want to run a PCV setup to keep the oil cleaner. Just make sure you're not crudding up your pistons and chambers with oil through your PCV.
Also, I found this adjustable valve helpful.
Dual Flow Adjustable PCV Valve ? M/E Wagner Performance Products
I'm guessing you want to run a PCV setup to keep the oil cleaner. Just make sure you're not crudding up your pistons and chambers with oil through your PCV.
#11
Lower circled hole is for the temp sender.
The upper port could be plugged or since I don't see a port near the rear of the manifold it could be used for the brake booster.
Do not connect the PCV to that port as it will cause a imbalance in manifold vacuum resulting in a lean misfire condition on # 2 and 5 cylinders.
#12
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