These are the codes that I got (At least I'm pretty sure they are).

P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P1702 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent

Once I stopped using the OD button I stopped getting the codes.

 

I would have to guess that means you have a short or loose wire in your column or shifter.

 

Here is the code:

P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction

Ideas?

Full codes:

 

I found this information, not sure if it is related to my problem or not?

Here is the link: (post 7) Need Some Help from the Trans Experts... - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

 

I know I'm late to the party, and you've already made your choice, but I figure I'd still post up my experience.

It happened a couple years ago when I was coming back from a weekend at Pismo Beach. I was headed back up 101 to Monterey when a couple in another car honked to get my attention, alerting me to smoking trailer tires. Once I pulled over I discovered bearing grease all over the outside wheel on the passenger side of my travel-trailer, so I called Good Sam. It was a Sunday evening so I wasn't surprised it took a little over a couple hours to get someone out to me, but when he arrived, I disconnected and he pulled my trailer up onto his flatbed and hauled it back to Paso Robles for me, to the nearest trailer repair facility.

All in all, Good Sam came through for me and saved me a ton of money...Good Sam, not Geico.

If I may, why were you automatically turning off O/D on hills? Was the trans "hunting" for gears?

Stewart

 

Never too late, come on in, we saved a cold one for ya!
Good on Good Sam I've heard lots of good things about them. It was the 'we attempt to bring the parts to have you fixed' that sold me on USRider. But I reserve the right to try out GS later

[/QUOTE]

Isn't it the "way to do it" with our 4R100s?

Truth be told, I was watching my gauges, trying it all out. Seeing if I could maintain 50-60mph on our steep hills, what the rpms were, how the trans temp and engine oil temp responded, etc.

I don't have my EGT gauges hooked up yet, so also didn't want to lug too much, to be safe.

The "delayed O/D engaging" seems reasonable, since it was when lugging as it didn't seem to complain- especially on level or medium grades.

I just hope nothing is wrong with my trans. I am rolling on 35s and now starting to tow heavy and planning on more.

I'm hoping to get more rounds for my buckzooka to replace/rebuild with HD NEXT YEAR. But so far it seems they don't even make rounds for MY buckzooka anymore (nod to Tugly )

I also want to make sure I am not doing something STUPID and hurting my 192k transmission

We're in a pretty big money stretch to do this traveling before my daughter graduates and goes on her own- there will come a day when Peter wants to know why I robbed him

So we've got to be frugal and smart...though LUCKY is not unwelcomed

 

Dumb question: Can a torque converter be replaced without the transmission? Any benefit in my situation?

I have the JW valve body. If I spring for a HD torque converter of sorts now, then the rest of the trans next year?

I've read that doing a trans without TC is BAD and if a TC goes bad, pieces take out the trans, hence some folks add an inline trans filter.

I don't pretend to know ANYTHING about transmissions

 

I've seen stuff like this before on another member's truck, and it turned out to be nothing. You may very well need that reburn you mentioned.

 

Thanks, Rich

So I just call up any Ford dealer? Any downside to having them reflash my PCM?

I guess ignoring the error isn't wise, since I won't know if there is a "real" error hiding behind the flashing O/D light...

Thanks!

 

Andy is correct and you can spend even less: Tom, aka WE3ZS turned me on to the unit in the link.

Enjoy your trip.

 

"Currently Unavailable"

Big Oil must be onto you, cutting into their tire mfg sales

Thanks, we have a little time before we can go. Though we did sleep in the camper last night at "Camp Driveway" to go through some things

 

I installed a TC from Bob Riley (DieselSite) without going through the rest of the trans. I did however use their remote trans filter for a couple of years. Never had an issue.

And about manual button the OD? Put it in gear and go, unless the trans is hunting for a gear, just drive it.

 

Look at the valve stems on the "X"....odds are they are rubber "snap" in. I had my tire guy put metal stems on my horse trailer...the rubber stems seemed to stand up to a horse pawing at the rim than the metal. 10ply tires aired up to 80psi.

 

Here's the one I bought:

TireMinder Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System with Booster - 6-Wheel TM66-M6 Kit - TireMinder TM66-M6 - Tire Accessories - Camping World

It's available!

 

Okay, more on the trailer tires...

I can fit 16" tires with clearance all around. The axles are pretty close together, with just over 4.75" between the tires now.

Going from 225/75R15 to 235/85R16 would be 2.52" larger diameter, so that inter-tire space would drop to 2.23"

Here's the calculations:




What is the minimum tire to tire space considered as okay? I would think 2 inches, just to be safe from deformities, suspension tweaking, etc. But that is speculation. The odds of BOTH axles flexing and deforming in opposite directions as the same time...likely not.

Width is no problem at all .39" wider, so less than a quarter inch on inside and outside.

I'm planning on going to Load range E. It has Mission brand, Load range D on it for a really long time.

I can't paint for squat, else I'd just sandblast and paint the wheels and stick with 15 inch.

But the white paint is peeled in spots with some surface rust showing through in spots. Not "nice" looking. They don't have to look like a million bucks for us, but I don't want something all rusted looking, either.

We have had Loadstar on alloy wheels on our Hybrid for a couple of years and ZERO complaints. Handles very nicely, handles extremely well.