Hello all.
So I somewhat recently built a 410 FE for my 72 pickup and I'm having some small problems with the choke. I will start by saying I believe my idle is set a bit high as I occasionally get some bad run-on during shut off. Anyway, usually when it's cold (or any time it's not warm for that matter) I will start the truck and rather than the choke coming right on the engine idles very rough for a couple minutes at around 600 or 700 RPM. Then it will start to smooth out a bit and eventually the idle picks up to around 1500 until if tap the throttle to kick it down. I have the choke hooked to a hot wire so I'm not understanding why it isn't immediately working since I have seen that it does indeed start open and closes as it warms up like it is supposed to.

As a side note a couple of times it has never even came on. Even at full operating temperature in very cold weather I have had trouble getting the idle up and at stops it will seem like it wants to die. It will eventually stop but even on a 10 to 15 min drive to work it has done it the whole way. This has only happened a couple times however. All feedback is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Have you ever had the plastic cap off? It's ez to put it back on wrong and won't adjust correctly which sound like what's happening. Auto choke power wire hook to that alternator Stator lug normally autolite carbs. But think Holley's needs 12v full on the auto choke.
Orich

 

Ok, so at cold start: Do you press the throttle to the floor(WOT) before cranking? How many times? Yes, it should not take a few minutes for it to go up to "High" idle.

If you are not going WOT, then you are not setting the choke properly and thus it won't bring the RPM up. Plus it needs some fuel to start.

Was the choke opening set correctly before installing the carb? Loosen the screws and rotate the black cover til it is fully open(I'm thinking CW), then slowly rotate it back(CCW) til the plate is almost closed, but not quite, 1/8" open(you must hold the throttle WOT so it does not catch on the linkage). Tighten the screws holding the cover. You need to do this when it is stone cold.

I agree with Rich, has the black cover been off? There is a tag that much engage the coil of wire to make it work correctly.

 

Your choke power source has a full 12V, correct? And the whole time it's running not just when it's starting?

 

It is getting a full 12 volts. I tried turning it a bit lean as someone suggested so that it was about 1/8 inch open at cold since it was indeed completely closed. It seems to be doing a little bit better but not completely. It is also getting warm here in Missouri lately so that may have something to do with it. Thanks for the replies.

 

Holley electric chokes can be irritating, I deal with one everyday. Google it and try to get a full understanding of how it is supposed to work on start up and warm up etc. Holleys have traditionally had a choke "pull-off" which is supposed to crack the choke butterfly open a small amount upon start up, as the engine creates vacuum. I have a newer Holley that does not have the pull-off system but rather the back half of the butterfly is simply cut away allowing there to be a small amount of air flow without the "pull-off" system. Most times that system is what causes your problems in stumbling after start up because the butterfly is either opening back up too far, or not far enough. Proper float level will affect this also. Just IMHO I would research and become as familiar as you can with the holley Electric choke and what is supposed to happen during warm-up, especially if you have the vacuum pull-off system because it is adjustable but it's like it's some big secret or something. The Holley instructions simply tell you to adjust the choke by rotating the cap +or-. Sorry I don't have the links handy but if you do a little googling on the subject you will find it. Good luck!

Dan

 

I have always hated electric chokes. Never had one work correctly, ever. I always put a manual cable on them and work it myself.

If opening it to 1/8" helped, then maybe a touch more will do better. You really don't need to close the air off that much to richen it enough to start. The high idle should keep it running enough.

Is that 410 pretty stock? Or have some performance upgrades? Bigger cam, intake, distributor? Those will affect how well an electric choke works(what I've found and reason I never use electric chokes).

 

I may try opening it more... The 410 has a little bit bigger cam. Nothing too big. The distributor is a MSD but it's just one of those ready to runs with the ignition module in the distributor. The intake is an aluminum Edelbrock Performer RPM.

 

I have always been the same way, and I have a manual choke on the workbench ready to put on but I wanted to give it a valiant effort this time and so far mine doesn't do too bad. I don't have a radical motor either though.

 

How much air the choke flap allows in upon start up is key. Twisting the choke cap either way just adjusts how cold the air has to be to fully set the choke and there bye how fast or slow the choke unloads. Not the air/fuel mixture the choke gives the engine upon start up. This is done by adjusting EXACTLY how far open the choke flap gets upon start up. Just going from 1/8" to 5/32" can make a difference as an example.
Have a Buddy help you from inside the cab. Cold morning, air cleaner removed, and a full set of marked drill bits within reach of the carb. Have your Buddy set the choke and start the engine. Once the engine starts and the choke flap opens where it is adjusted now, you manually open and close it just a touch until you hear the engine running the best. Once you have found that sweet spot hold the flap EXACTLY there and yell to your Buddy to shut off the engine. Once the engine has stopped and is at rest, grab a drill bit one by one and slide them down between the front of the barely open choke flap and the front of the air horn. Once you find the drill bit that just fits down in there you have your target adjustment number. DON'T DROP A DRILL BIT DOWN THE CARB. Now adjust the actuator rod going to the flap so the flap is opened to your target number upon start up.

 

This is pretty much what I said, just different. This is what the Choke pull-off is for

 

Plus I explained how to adjust it in to a person's personal engine and altitude.

 

I understand Jeff. I was just under the assumption that the OP has a Holley carb and choke instead of the Ford style.

Holley conveniently decided not to address this adjustment in their literature in any kind of detail, but if you google "Holley choke pull-off", there is plenty of info on the subject. I included a picture where someone is pointing a screwdriver right at the adjustment screw for this pull-off. Best part is, Holley seals over the screw with rtv or something assuming that "Joe common user" will not need or be smart enough to properly adjust it. So, you have to dig the rtv out with a small pick or something to reveal the adjusting screw.

There is a vacuum actuated piston inside the choke housing, and the screw adjusts how much the piston is allowed to travel and crack the choke butterfly plate open when the engine starts and creates vacuum, because initially when you set the choke before starting, the plate snaps completely shut. This adjustment is one of the most important on a Holley choke but also probably the most overlooked one at the same time. Instead people adjust and readjust the Choke housing with bi-metal spring in vain trying to overcome this starting issue. Which to your point Jeff is ONLY adjusting the rate, or length of time it takes for the choke plate to open all the way. It has nothing to do with start-up and the first 30-60 seconds there-after. This is why people get mad and just put a manual choke on it, including myself until recently.

Hope this helps, and by no means am I trying to create an argument. Just wanted to try and help the OP or anyone else out there find the means by which to have a properly adjusted and operable automatic choke

Dan

 

I have only owned a couple of the Holley electric chokes and never felt like I had one working exactly like I wanted. They seem to open too fast for real cold weather. As with any choke, the warm up period is the hard part to fine tune. It sounds like you have some sticking issues going on.

 

Well Willow, back in the day Ford had about a gazzion choke cap part numbers. Basic #9848. I used to wonder why. But maybe it is because of altitudes or how Cold the weather is in different areas. It would make sense that a choke cap for Phoenix Arizona would unload sooner than in SD. Even though they may be adjusted to the same notch. Different bi-metallic springs in them. Maybe in the past you've had the wrong cap.