Nice find and welcome to FTE! The stickies as well as the knowledgeable guys here will be able to help great deal. Most do CAI with a 6637 filter, 3" Downpipe, exhaust, gauges for EGT and Boost, and a performance tuned chip to get started. You are good to do all of the maintenance first and get a good baseline and then go from there. You may find issues arise from a truck that's been sitting. They like to be worked hard. I have personally found that the ones that have been "beat on" have less issues. The ones that have been babied tend to have the need to be coddled for a bit (like my truck) LOL

 

I thought yours had been beat on!? Any progress Byron? Never mind, I just saw you posted in the other thread, I'll go read it.

 

Ha, I should have clarified. By "beat on" I mean worked hard. Mine was moe neglected than beat on. Ruby was a Texas truck used by an asphalt crew and a rancher, but maintained well. Whitey was sparingly but maintained like absolute Shiite. Hope that makes sense. Kinda like saddles. They get much better with lots and lots of use.

 

I ordered the 6637 filter and a prefilter, seems like the general consensus is that the K&N that's in my truck sucks.
Bought a motorcraft filter and 4 gallons rotella 15w40 conventional oil.
Ordered a 6 position chip from riffraff diesel.
Bought two new gel batteries at a local farm store.
Now I'm looking for a good deal on tires.

 

Sounds like a good start in the right direction! Looking forward to the progress.

 

Driving the truck today and it suddenly died.
Theres fuel in the bowl, and it fires up with starting fluid, but it's not getting fuel to the engine. Any insight?

 

Yes, my first insight is DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!!!! You can cause major engine damage and the glowplug system can cause huge explosion. Check you CPS. We need a lot more info on what the truck is doing. Google "7.3 no start flow chart". It's an invaluable tool. This should help though.

 

Engine will not start flow chart, print it and keep in glove box!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view

 

Thanks for the chart.
i just used a tiny shot of starting fluid to see if it would fire and narrow down the problem.
when I was messing with it I noticed the ipr valve is loose. The nut is completely missing from the backside of it. That seems like a problem.

more info on what happened. It has ran completely fine, since I brought it home. It ran fine, today. Then it suddenly stopped running while coasting to a red light.

 

That tin nut missing will definitely cause a no start/no run condition. Look down in the valley below it and you most likely find it. They tend to fall of when not tightened properly.

 

Looks like some mice had made a nest down in there and I cleaned some of it out earlier. I guess that was the only thing holding the nut on. lol

 

I installed a new nut to hold the fuel IPR valve in tight but still no start.
So I ordered a new one. Also got fuel bowl o-rings, filter and cap, fuel regulator screen and o-rings kit.
Had to buy a new ICP sensor also, cause someone broke it off while trying to help diagnose my problem.

 

don't forget the spare cps

 

The tach moves while cranking, so I'm thinking cps is good by the troubleshooting chart.
Maybe I should change it
amyway if they're known for going out.

 

keep a spare in the glove box...they are known for going out and only buy ford or IH ones..