just pick up a truck its a 86 f250 2wd diesel 4spd with a turbo on it,not to bad of shape,did this truck come out with a turbo ? it does have a tach in the cluster,elect door locks and windows ect,are these a good motor,first diesel i ever owned,

 

No factory turbo until 93/94. What turbo is on it? I have an '86 F-350 4x4 with ZF5 that came with an early non wastegated Banks, I've since swapped on a newer wastegated Banks.

Tach is a hard to find item, be glad you have one. Mine cost me $100 for the tach and $66 for the sense plus restoring the faded face.

These engines are good. Simple reliable engines. Basics are they need injection pump and injectors every 100k miles or so, else they suffer poor MPG, smokiness, and hard starting when hot toward the end. Engine is designed to last 300k miles but they'll go twice that easily if cared for. The '86 block is better than the early engines, revised casting to not crack at the block heater and so forth.

 

I have a 89 7.3 with no turbo, same basic engine that you bought. I will also verify it's a good engine.

I keep hearing the injection system only lasts 100k, but I have 140k on mine. It runs too good to change it out. It still starts good, doesn't smoke, and gets good fuel mileage. I am not messing with it till something bad happens.

Part of the reason not to mess with it, if you change the injection pump you should change the injectors too. They wear together. And any time you mess with this stuff, you need to get the engine timed. It takes special timing equipment that most shops don't have anymore, and are old and expensive if you buy the timing meters used.

 

IIRC there were only 2 different turbo kit for non-turbo diesels.
1 being Banks that was posted here and ATI. There should signs of what kit it is with their name on something like air filter box.


I did a Banks on a GM 6.2 at 100K and drove it till it had 230k when I bought a new truck. I did a pump rebuild just after the turbo install and was due for another when I sold it.


On the GM the pump shaft seals would start to "weep" and lose the pressure/prime so you had to crank it a lot before it would fire up.
Is the Ford the same on that count?
Dave ----

 

The timing needs to be set several times over the life of the pump. As the pump wears it will take longer to reach injector pop pressure, retarding the timing. I check mine annually when I give the truck a thorough going over before a long trip for vacation.

The equipment is not old or expensive. You can buy a new pulse adapter that converts the injector pulse to high voltage so you can use a timing light. $189 and required equipment for anyone with an IDI if you don't know anyone who has one. Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools

If you want to use the luminosity method, you'll likely be looking for old equipment, but everyone uses the pulse method anymore.

 

There were several turbo kits over the years, I believe there were some more less common models I can't think of.
ATS 088
ATS 093 (factory Ford)
ATS 093 (aftermarket)
Banks first gen non wastegated
Banks second gen wastegated
Hypermax
Rotomaster


Both GM and International/Ford engines use the same type of Stenadyne DB2 pump. GM pumps rotate opposite International pumps and are not interchangeable. I believe these a revision early in the DB2 production for these engines that added another seal on the pump shaft, I've never heard of any issues with premature leakage there. The air intrusion/losing prime issues on the 6.9/7.3 are from the return system. It is finicky to seal and commonly develops a leak )air in, not fuel out) when disturbed while doing maintenance if the orings, caps and lines have been installed for a while. Other sources of air intrusion are the 7.3 fuel filter head, the 6.9 filter head does not have this problem.

 

That's a good price for that adapter, I have seen it for a lot more. You also need to get the more expensive timing light with the dial-back **** on it for it to work. Not old equipment you are right, but not cheap either.

On that same site I found this one for 50.00. So you would be all in at $230.00. I have a timing light but it doesn't have the dial. I have heard of people retro-fitting a timing tape to the balancer, that would let you use a regular timing light.

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...okup=ACTCP7528

 

i am real good with gas engines,did some work on diesels in heavy machines,and some fords 6.0,but i no nothing about 6.9,i the guy i bought this from said turbo was installed same year he purchased truck,then replaced in 2010,truck runs to me rough,was sitting long time,were should i start to try and solve this,thanks

 

Change the fuel filter, fill new with diesel kleen or similar injector cleaner suitable for a diesel. Start the truck, let it idle for 20-30 seconds until you hear it sound different running on the cleaner, shut it down overnight. This is a quickie to try to clean the pump and injectors.

Get a timing adapter, set the timing to 9* at 2000 RPM.

Do a compression test.

Crack each fuel line open individually and see if one makes more difference than any other (identify bad cylinder). Could be low compression or a bad injector typically.

 

ok got the old girl to start,but now i have a problem,runs for about 10 min then starts to miss then shuts off,wait a min or so starts right up then does the same thing. it has 2 fuel tanks doesn't matter which tank its running off.the engine is a 6.9 diesel ats turbo with a k.n air filter box on it.any suggestions ???

 

On the top mount of the fuel filter, on the side, there should be a schrader valve(looks like a tire valve). When it dies, poke this valve and see if fuel squirts out. If it doesn't, you have a fuel delivery problem.

 

ok i will try that,thanks

 

Ensure your tank is more than 1/4 full. There is a rubeery plastic pickup that filters the rocks out and has an umbrella valve that open if the filtery bit is clogged. These break off and the metal tube on the pickup sits much higher in teh tank so will pull air if the fuel level is low. If that's your problem, extend it with a piece of copper tube and a compression fitting, cut or file a small angle in teh bottom so it doesn't suck to the bottom of the tank.

 

got the air out,still does same thing,looked in all the original paper work, truck has 184,000 miles,question,it has 2 fuel tanks,is there a switch ,to switch tanks or does it run off both, also i think its sucking air from fuel motor back to the tanks?

 

E3TZ-9A050-AA .. Fuel Tank Selector Switch-mounted in heater/A/C control panel / Marked: E3TB-9A050-AA / Obsolete ~ 2 available NOS

1983/86 F250/350 Diesel / 1983/86 F250/350 460 gas w/electric in-tank fuel pump / 1985 F150/350 gas with dual fuel line system.
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E3TZ-9189-C .. Fuel Tank Selector Valve-6 ports / Marked: E3TB-9F271-AA / Available from Ford

1983/86 F250/350 Diesel / 1983/85 F250/350 460 gas w/electric in-tank fuel pump / 1983/89 Ranger 134 cid 4 cylinder diesel.

This valve is a notorious POS!