2005 Super Crew 4x4, 150k miles. Had the phaser diesel knock at idle (not bad compared to many). I planned on changing the VCT solenoids and addressing any timing chain issues this spring. Well the wife has been driving the truck during all the snow we had and informs me it's developed an additional engine noise.

I listen and it sounds like a top end clatter, I'm thinking one lifter or follower maybe on its way out. I check the oil and it's almost three quarts low. Top it off and no change in sound. I last checked the oil somewhere between 500 and 1000 miles ago. No oil leaks.

I was probing with my mechanic's stethoscope today and didn't really find anything from the valve cover or timing chain area. I did however find a very pronounced "tock tock" sound on two coil packs on each side. The other four had no sound at all. I'm wondering if this is piston slap being transmitted up through the plug, boot and coil pack? Also wondering if my new noise could be wrist pin related on those cylinders.

I plan to do a compression test next week and I'll unplug injectors on those holes to see if the sound goes away. Anybody experienced anything like this? My gut feeling is I'll be looking for a replacement engine...

 

Well, can't do a compression test, don't have the right adaptor. The P.O. didn't lie about the spark plugs just being done, they came out easily. The knocking noise heard through the stethoscope was combustion gas leaking. 4 or so plugs weren't even finger tight.





effect!





cause!




noise I was hearing










Looks like I'm a lucky man. Driver's side tensioner was just starting to blow out. See the seal starting to turd out the top? Drivers side chain was very loose and had been contacting a bolt head or something as evidenced by the wear marks to the inside of the teeth. I'm thinking this was the metallic clinking I was hearing, it almost sounded like a roller coaster pull chain.

Fordtechmakuloco's videos have been very helpful. How have you all been doing chains on these? Do I really need to remove some followers?

 

Just did my whole setup on my wifes 04. PO had new phasers installed (dorman)...ughh
we drove it fine for about 2 months it had a little rattle on start up but quieted up in seconds. then one day it began stalling upon coming to a stop...rpms at 500 so i used right foot on gas and left on brake to keep rpms up. I knew it needed redone and quick.
So i ordered a Cloyes kit included new chains,tensioners,crank sprocket,and guides. i also ordered in new cts sensors, and melling oil pump. after installation she was quiet on start up no i didnt crank it to build pressure but i did prelube the new pump . i just held my breath and turned the key. oil pressure was instant with no rattle.
3 days later my wife said its making a new noise a knocking....im like listening and cussing under my breath. i just knew it was one of the dorman phasers. i should have had my *** kicked for not changing passenger phaser out. i noticed when installing timing chains i could turn the phaser left and right while cam was locked in place and it was pumping oil out the cts hole. (the driver side was tight ) . so i ordered in a new fomoco phaser from amazon for 200. couldnt afford 2 right now.
removed valve cover again from passenger side. got the cheese block for timing chain. took about 15 minutes to remove phaser and install new one.
as of today she has about 1000 miles on new stuff and quiet as new. the only ticking is the fuel injectors.
Ok as to your question: No, i did not remove any followers at all. i turned the engine by hand while old chains were still on to crank key at 12clock. and used vise grips on the cam just behind the phaser gear real tight. then i use a block of wood horizontlly between fender and intake and clamped a c-clamp to vise grip screw . Hope this makes sense to you, this held the cams perfectly positioned then you can remove all the old stuff. passenger side tensioner had a blown out gasket and my guide on the passenger side was in 4 pieces . i recovered all of the pieces and laid them out on bench so i could prove i got all.
Definately use a new oil pump these engines need good oil pressure to work properly and old oil pumps get low pressure at idle.
sorry for the long response .

 

sorry i meant cvt solenoids. my bad

 

Yes I've ordered a complete OEM timing set with phasers, tensioners, guides etc., melling M360 oil pump, crank alignment tool, vct solenoids, new lash adjusters and an MBRP cat back to treat myself for doing this job. One of the lash adjusters was frozen so I ordered a complete sealed power set.

















cam journals and caps have a little scoring. Can't quite catch a finger nail on it so I'm not worried. Not surprising when you have a steel cam riding in aluminum caps. I can see why rebuilders bore out the journals and fit bearings. Not bad for 150k.

 

Check all your roller rockers for any play. This is a weak point.

 

Yep, checked them and they were all tight and smooth. Lash adjusters were hashed though, only one of them was tight.


new sealed power lash adjusters in, cams cleaned, lubed and in



New ford phasers installed also



New melling M360 oil pump and otc crank tool installed. We'll worth the $50 for the piece of mind the tool gives. Lines up the crank and just line up the chain marks on the phasers. Super easy.



tone wheel was a bit chewed up on the backside and the timing cover had marks inside the drivers side where the chain had rubbed. Guess that chain really whips around when the tensioners leak

 

Got everything re-assembled, filled up with oil and cranked with the crank sensor unplugged to prime the oil pump. Took longer than I thought but eventually showed pressure on the gauge. Went to plug in the crank sensor and the lock tab snaps off and falls out, grrrr.

had to wait until the next day, pull the harness back out and replace the pig tail.

all running quiet and smooth now. No phaser knock to speak of, we'll see how it goes as time goes on

 

Did the same, if I go back in I will use old metal tensioners ,they don't have seals and are ratcheting . You can get new ones from melling and on amazon . No more plastic ones for me .

 

The new tensioners, while plastic, have a much improved seal. It appears to be Teflon instead of rubber. I used the kit fordtechmakuloco recommends in his YouTube video, all ford factory parts, $803 on Amazon with tensioners. I did get the VCT solenoids aftermarket (standard motor products) from rockauto. Had about $1200 total in parts not counting exhaust.

Hopefully good for another 150,000