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351w stripped spark plugs

  #1  
Old 02-28-2017, 10:41 AM
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351w stripped spark plugs

I am currently 15 and just bought my first truck a 97' F-250 HD. I get my license in April, so after 9 months of repairs I am making my final adjustments. With 156k on the enine and no service records it seemed fitting to replace the spark plugs. I started on the passengers side using 5/8" 6 point socket. Cylinders 3 and 4 were easily removed ( to my surprise there was a mix of autolite and bosch spark plugs). When I reached cylinder 2 the socket was a tight fit which made me think that it was a 16mm rather than a 5/8", but I continued to use the 5/8" socket at which point the spark plug seemed to loosed but to my surprise the hex nut had stripped. Being the wiz that I am I attempted to grab the plug with a pair of vice grip's and I snapped the porelaine. Now I am left with a snapped stripped and no money left for a mechanic. Please help
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 12:07 PM
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Ok, so the just the porcelain part broke flush with the steel hex head?

If you can still get a socket on the hex, that's still ok. Your best bet is to try an heat the area of the plug up. And if you hadn't broken the porcelain part off, I would have said to run the engine for a few minutes to let it do the work of heating it up for you. That would have made removing it far easier.

If you rounded off the just the top of the hex, you may still be able to beat a socket on it completely. Were you using a spark plug socket with a rubber inner piece? I've found those pointless with removal but ok with install.

Pulling the inner fender wheel well may also help you with getting a better look at it.
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Ok, so the just the porcelain part broke flush with the steel hex head?

If you can still get a socket on the hex, that's still ok. Your best bet is to try an heat the area of the plug up. And if you hadn't broken the porcelain part off, I would have said to run the engine for a few minutes to let it do the work of heating it up for you. That would have made removing it far easier.

If you rounded off the just the top of the hex, you may still be able to beat a socket on it completely. Were you using a spark plug socket with a rubber inner piece? I've found those pointless with removal but ok with install.

Pulling the inner fender wheel well may also help you with getting a better look at it.
should I try to pound on a 12 point or 6 point socket
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:05 PM
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Whether 6 or 12 point, I'm not sure. Be sure it's a socket your ready to part with.

If you had a pic, that would help.
 
  #5  
Old 02-28-2017, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fishfreak101
I am currently 15 and just bought my first truck a 97' F-250 HD. I get my license in April, so after 9 months of repairs I am making my final adjustments. With 156k on the enine and no service records it seemed fitting to replace the spark plugs. I started on the passengers side using 5/8" 6 point socket. Cylinders 3 and 4 were easily removed ( to my surprise there was a mix of autolite and bosch spark plugs). When I reached cylinder 2 the socket was a tight fit which made me think that it was a 16mm rather than a 5/8", but I continued to use the 5/8" socket at which point the spark plug seemed to loosed but to my surprise the hex nut had stripped. Being the wiz that I am I attempted to grab the plug with a pair of vice grip's and I snapped the porelaine. Now I am left with a snapped stripped and no money left for a mechanic. Please help
They make special sockets for grabbing stripped nuts. I think they're called Alligator grips? That should definitely work. I'd be worried about pounding on a socket just because I'd be scared of damaging the threads in the head.
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Whether 6 or 12 point, I'm not sure. Be sure it's a socket your ready to part with.

If you had a pic, that would help.
thanks a lot
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:03 PM
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12 points are often easier to pound on
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 11:55 PM
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make sure you spray some penetrating fluid in there; preferably overnight.
 
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Old 03-03-2017, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselCamper
They make special sockets for grabbing stripped nuts. I think they're called Alligator grips? That should definitely work. I'd be worried about pounding on a socket just because I'd be scared of damaging the threads in the head.
Being scared of stripping the threads I opted to buy some Irwin Bolt Grips https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-...r-Set/50146292
Unfortunitley this worsened the problem and the threads snapped inside the block head. Any sudgestions?
 
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Old 03-03-2017, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselCamper
They make special sockets for grabbing stripped nuts. I think they're called Alligator grips? That should definitely work. I'd be worried about pounding on a socket just because I'd be scared of damaging the threads in the head.
Being scared of stripping the threads I opted to buy some Irwin Bolt Grips https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-...r-Set/50146292
Unfortunitley this worsened the problem and the threads snapped inside the block head. Any sudgestions?



 
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Old 03-03-2017, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by fishfreak101
Being scared of stripping the threads I opted to buy some Irwin Bolt Grips https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-...r-Set/50146292
Unfortunitley this worsened the problem and the threads snapped inside the block head. Any sudgestions?



Jesus... How long have those plugs been on there?
 
  #12  
Old 03-03-2017, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselCamper
Jesus... How long have those plugs been on there?
Believe it or not I think they are not the originals as they are Bosch spark plugs. I do not have the vehicles service records
 
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:11 PM
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As I had mentioned in my previous post I had stripped the spark plug, using a hex nut, on cylinder 2 on my 351w 97' F-250. I later snapped the porcelain attempting to grip it with some vice grips. At this point I decided to but some Irwin bolt grips, which did function well, but the spark plug's threads unfortunately snapped in the block. Please help.







 
  #14  
Old 03-03-2017, 12:12 PM
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At this point you have two options. Crank the engine over and hopefully the compression will blow the rest of the porcelain out of the metal so you can try to use an easy out. Option two. The hard has to come off.
 
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
At this point you have two options. Crank the engine over and hopefully the compression will blow the rest of the porcelain out of the metal so you can try to use an easy out. Option two. The hard has to come off.
Just crank it for like 3 seconds? How would I go about that?
 

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