thank you sir. Nobody seems to like the idea of me attempting to free up the motor lol. If I'm going to rebuild it anyways then I don't see the harm in trying.

 

You are in the FE engine forum, with guys that have been around the block three or two times already. What we are trying to share with you is what we are shown will not run or hold up in the condition it is currently in. It's your party, have all the fun that you want.

352 was the only V8 engine installed in 67. The truck could very well have a 390 swapped in over 50 years or was called a 390 like most FEs.


John

 

Disassembly first could possibly prevent scaring the cylinders beyond repair. Bottom line it's your 7 bucks.

 

Many people come to this site asking a question. Some come with an answer in mind, and no matter what is discussed, their (sometimes final) post is "well, I'll do it my way anyhow...'.

The points made above deal with not damaging anything salvageable. Given the condition you describe, there is no way to make a runner out of this without a full teardown.

Anyhow, good luck with it.

 

According to the 4th digit of the VIN (Y), your truck originally came with the 352 2V. 360/390 first installed in 1968. All 3 are FE engines.

B&S: 352 = 4.00" x 3.50" / 360 = 4.05" x 3.50" / 390 = 4.05" x 3.78"

It's impossible to discern the engine size by looking at any FE engine.

 

if it does not loosen up I will do a full rebuild and of course I will do my best not to destroy anything as that's is not my goal. My plan is to drain the motor, fill each cylinder with marvel oil and lit it settle then try rolling it back and forth in gear in hopes of getting some movement.

thank you for the input,
paxton

 

do you happen to know the stroke distance of the 352?

 

3.5" same as the 360.

I did have to hammer the pistons out of a 289 once, so soaking them in advance might pay a dividend anyway, even if it won't turn on it's own.

 

if if it has a 390 the distance will be different tho right?

 

Post 20 has the numbers. 3.78" for the 390.

Cut and past from another site, easier than sending you there via link to scroll around looking:

Here are some common casting marks; it’s by no means a comprehensive list:
The cast 360 often has a 2T or 2TA
The cast 390 often has a 2U or 2UA
The cast 428 has a 1U, 1UA, or 1UB
The cast 428 SCJ has a 1UA or 1UB
The steel 427 may have a somewhat appropriate “$” sign

But here's the link anyway:

http://diyford.com/ultimate-ford-fe-...kshaft-guide/#

 

Just adding my two cents worth... and it's probably not even worth that much.

Last spring I picked up a 1960 Sportster XLH 900cc in a 70's era hardtail frame. It had been sitting parked in a garage for the last 23 years without being started up due to a broken kick start gear (no electric starter). When I put it on the motorcycle lift and in 1st gear, the engine refused to turn when I rotated the back tire. I didn't try applying mongo level force, and it seemed locked up solid.
My snake oil miracle cure for seized up engines is a mix of type F ATF (2/3) and Marvel Mystery Oil (1/3). I pulled the plugs and the rocker arm boxes and liberally doused everything I could, put the rocker arm boxes back on, and screwed the spark plugs back in, and then walked away from it for about 6 months other than about once a month I would warm up the cylinder barrels with my heat gun, the same kind you'd use to strip paint, just to get the cylinders nice and warm to the touch.
Last week I pulled the spark plugs and put my home made Harley crankshaft breaker bar on it and gave a little push after pulling the spark plugs. Just two fingers of pressure and the engine spun silky smooth... and puked out about 900cc of my snake oil mix all over the garage floor out of the spark plug holes. I guess the pistons were at the bottom of the stroke.

I guess my point is, if you're trying to go the inexpensive route freeing up an old frozen engine, being in a hurry isn't a good choice. You'll need to give the engine every advantage possible when trying to overcome time and corrosion. Make it as easy as possible to spin. Those severely rusted rocker arm assemblies need to be removed, along with the pushrods and once you pull the intake, the lifters also. Flood the cylinders with whatever penetrating lubricant you decide to use and let it soak for a long time. If you can apply mild heat to the block occasionally, that can help break stuck parts loose as the cast iron expands & contracts, letting the lubricant to seep in to new places.

You may get it to free up and be rebuildable, it may be a giant corroded chunk of iron frozen forever. If it is frozen solid, a can of spray paint later and you got the heaviest
coffee table base in town.

 

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I gotta say I thought he was pulling our leg also with those pictures..... , Would be a cool project to see if you could even get enough of the engine apart in order to rebuild...... would need to sit in a vat of PB blaster for 6 months ........ I thought I had a challenge with some seized header bolts ..... Anyhow, if you are serious and im still suspicious, you would have to pull it, put on a stand and be prepared to a very painful dis-assembly requiring a cutting torch (to heat bolts) and whole lotta ATF/Acetone mix............

 

haha no joke here. Flex bar is working great on all the bolt that weren't stripped by the previous owner and I've had two valve springs shoot off so far due to the rod in the center being beyond corroded lol. Anyhow I have a 351m I plan on putting in it, just need to get a cherry picker from someone. Also the ford 9 inch was removed so I put a Dana 60 in the back now my driveshaft is to long.... any reccomendations of a direct bolt in driveshaft I can buy or should I just have my local rear end shop shorten it?

 

Take your measurements and let them cut and balance with new U joints.