party pooper

 

I blew up a good 10.25 with an 87 F250 and a 460, 4spd.
1st to 2nd gear aggressive shift. Stock engine.

They can break if you're hard on equipment.

 

It had the short spline pinion and anything will break if you try.

 

Well in my experience automatics and turbos are easier on drivetrain parts then sticks and other power adders. The auto keeps some of the shock out of the drivetrain you get power shifting a stick and turbos have to spool and come on a little more gradual then a blower or nitrous or even n/a. I've dished out quite abit of abuse to my 1356 t case and 10.25 rear axle in my powerstroke. It has an auto. There's plenty of guys running around with huge torque diesels with 1356's and 10.25's. Anything will break if you beat it hard enough, that's when you upgrade 😎

 

a very big difference is that pinion shaft on the ford is a 2 bearing
the GM is 3
the gm aint gonna walk

he he, which should mean u aint gonna walk !

 

Pinion was still good... Broke the differential in 5 pieces and took teeth off the ring gear when it locked up.
I wasn't trying to break it, I was racing a guy in a camaro, that wasn't happy that he couldn't pass me. Those iroc things weren't that impressive.

 

UNTAMND, was wondering if the diff would be the first thing to go. Open or LS? I think you could break a dump truck axle with a weed wacker motor lol.

sdiesel, was looking at trans brakes and c6 stuff today this link is for you, post 7.
C6 trans build for transbrake or manual valvebody - 460 Ford Forum

 

Hey is your truck a stock suspension or does it have a lift? I'm trying to see what rear blocks came on the f350 this year. I think it's 4 inch but can't confirm it

 

I've broken a lot of items in my short time here on earth.
When you're a kid, with a junkyard full of free parts, everything is a stress test.

I see you looked at my YouTube videos Dale... Did you see my mud truck video? The one that's over 4min is all them combined as 1 video. What you don't see is that it took me like 45 min-1hour to get through, because I had to fix the truck a few times.
That truck left with a bad ps pump, slipping clutch, broken cab mount, broken body mount, 2 broken motor mounts (luckily it was chained) and the clutch slave wasn't right after.

I didn't blow up the d50 or the transfer case for 5 years of abuse.

 

I watched your voltage video Dale... You should upgrade to a modern 3G 100-140a alt.
I put a gm 1 wire 100a on my 460, but I'm pretty sure a 3G will fit.
Or add a smaller alt pulley to keep the rpm higher. You're only going to rev around 6k I would think, so a smaller alt pulley shouldn't over rev the alt.

 

Mine was an LSD 10.25. I'm sure it was on it's way out already, the guy before me always beat it pretty bad.

I did candycane a dump truck driveshaft once trying to pull a bulldozer out of the mud...

And I have a 77 4x4 Mack, with a 12liter in it, that I broke the rear pinion in... I'm not happy about that one. Usually I'd say that I broke a dump truck rear with a smile, but not this one. I got truck stuck by letting the ground thaw, I rocked the truck a few times forward, slid into reverse and backed up, it slid into 3rd like butter, and I let out the clutch and it went forward and I felt a snap... The front sunk to the housing... I was not happy at all. Took a 320b cat excavator to pull me out, lucky for me the guy was right up the road doing ditches.

 

about a 4 1/4" block, stock setup...

 

UNTAMND, you crack me up. I didn't have a chance yet but I will check out all the vids.

Just put a new alt on, was contemplating more amps and didn't. I don't like the wiring on these, a higher amp alt would prolly melt more stuff. I heard not very good reviews about the delco 1 wire unless it's the big guy like 180amp???

In the vid I was hold the plow for way longer than you would normally. The voltage does come back much quicker with a few hundred more rpm. I always let my plow trucks idle for a few minutes before shutting off to charge up and cool fluids.

My experience is the internal regulated delco with the 2 small wires, one to excite and one for idiot light is better. No dead battery surprizes and senses the resistance in the wiring that you have. Another words, the 1 wire alternator may have 14.2v at the back of it, but if you have a lot of cable could only see (guessing) 13v at the battery and could also mean dimmer lights, slower running electrical motors.

 

My 87 melted the wiring with stock alt... That's what happens wheel someone puts battery cables on backwards sometimes... (Wasn't me)
I needed to go the 1wire route if I didn't replace the harness, and my boat was put up for the winter, which conveniently had a 460 in it, and a new 1wire.

The 3G alt requires a new harness and some serious cable. I use them as often as I can.
I can't remember the guys name, but you can get the pigtail harness with oem correct plug and wire colors from a guy on eBay. Then a 10 or 8ga battery wire and we are in business.
I also run 2-3 batteries in my work trucks, it's handy when it's real cold or heavy draw electronics like plows and 12k winches.

 

The 3g looks like a good deal with the stud/post and plenty of amps to choose from. I am looking at installing a 2nd battery, always a good idea with a plow. I assume I can get the parts from a diesel truck of this gen, or is there a better gen to get the tray and such?

Believe it or not, the sleeper had a 40 amp alt on it. Couldn't quite keep up with all the horsing around I did with it, but if I ran it with out idling much, it did fine. I never shut if off in the staging lanes to keep the turbo warm and wouldn't have to worry about starting it.

It was/still is running a continuous electric vacuum pump (Lincoln Mark 8) and a Walboro 450lph fuel pump albeit low pressure. Found a 60 amp laying in the trailer, slapped in on and had no more issues.

I should add that my truck does not have fancy stuff like power windows, but there's always that chance of plowing at night... with the wipers on...