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I was thinking the same with the divorced...major deal and not really what this build is about. Going to run low boost and let it creep with rpm as the tq naturally falls off.
I think I will stick with the 1356, correct the angles best I can, support the t case, and upgrade the rear shaft to 1350 whether I can find used stuff or buy new.
Powerstroke guys are pushing big torque through 1356's anyway. I've seen rhat trucks build thread in the video. I read somewhere it dyno'd 570ftlbs at 7psi. Damn does it sound nice to.
Actually, I may be able to score a np271 or np273(wiring fun). Will either of these bolt where the 1356 was? Looking at possible Excursion rear shaft to mod if long enough as 1 piece. I think he can gather enough pieces parts from the salvage yard to have some shafts made.
I did check and see the np 205 driveshaft centers are about 3 inches narrower than the 1356, and the front driveshaft has an outward angle as is heads toward the front already. Agreed, not a good option.
the 271 should have the same 6 pin mounting flange, to the transmission. dodge gm or ford
unsure about the spline count.
companion flange rear output.
you will go a long way b4 you kill the 1356. generally its lack of oil, broken pump, or chain slippage that does these in. (or 1000hp hehe)
the 271 has a problem with the pump wearing a hole in the case. look for it and repair with jb before install.
its not structural so much as its leakage caused by this plate shifting inside and wearing through the case. there is a fix for this but cannot remember who sells it.
with kit rebuild time is about 30 minutes if you get a junker.
look case over carefully b4 buy as there are cracks sometimes. many of these 271 came from squid diesels that got wrecked hence the wrecking yard, hence they have had a lot of abuse.
My spare 1356 is 31 spline as expected being c6 compatable.
I did a Cummins swap quite a few years ago with Getrag 5 speed into a 1999 SD v10 5 speed truck. Bought the 29 spline Dodge input for the ford t case, installed it and mated it to the Getrag. I checked in my trailer and still have the original '99 SD t case input, 31 spline. Fits a c6 output nicely. According to my records, it was a 273f t case. So, I should be golden if I go this route someday...
There's always the BW4407, which was used in the last couple of years of the OBS F-250/350 trucks. It's a gigantic transfercase as well.
I don't think you'll have any issues breaking things though. We've been pushing 12 PSI through my buddy's 96 460 for almost 5 years now. Only thing we did was put a shift kit in the transmission.
Lead Head: That is a good option but if the driveshafts have to be built or altered should start with a stronger 271. I believe the E4OD is longer than c6 so may not be able to bolt shafts right in...will have to check.
sdiesel: stock components yes, the t case rear output angle is steep in my book, will measure the degrees next time it's in. Have a 6.0 SD in the shop now...and yes the 273 and beefy joints on it are appealing!
Holley 162-551 100 micron s.s. mesh pre pump filter, 100gph. Holley 162-550 10 micron paper post pump efi filter, 100gph. Replacement paper element 162-556 is about $13.
Holley 162-551 pre filter on the left, ebay "high flow" billet pre filter on the right. Both have 3/8 npt inlets and outlets. The Holley's outlet is nearly the same size as the threads. A 5/16 drill bit will not fit into the ebay filter outlet. The Holley also offers more filter surface area.
Well, took the fun ton on a longer voyage to plow the mother in law out. It's about 35 miles round trip.
FiTech performed very well cruising around 14.4 afr's. I did have one hiccup when plowing. I was plowing very slowly/idling because a warm spell had thawed the ground prior to the fresh snow. I heard the lift/transfer pump (in the video that I'm using in combination with the stock mechanical pump) start clacking.
Without having a return and using hardly any fuel, the electric pump cavitated/vapor locked. Had to cycle the key on and off several times so the FiTech would "prime shot" and bleed the air. Got it running again and was a little heavier on the thottle, no more issues.
In general this should not be an issue however on a hot day in stop and go traffic it could be. At this point I would highly recommend a return style fuel system like I am upgrading to, and what the system is designed for.
With the Holley filters, AEM 380lph pump, 6an 8an lines and the 8 80lb injectors in the FiTech 1200 the math says:
850 hp capable @25psi boost on gas
600 hp capable @25psi boost on e85
This combination has been dyno proven to 452 whp (about 500 engine) on e85 around 20psi on the little v6.
On paper, 8 80lb injectors will support 1200hp with a 6an feed at 58psi which is where the internal regulator is factory set on this model and has a 6an inlet. (can add 2 more inlets or move them and plug)
In my previous post, hp figures are at 83psi fuel pressure with 25psi boost. The AEM is an excellent high pressure pump but like all of them, it takes a hit as pressure rises. It could support around 1000hp n.a. on gas with this system, but then the 835 cfm throttle body would be a little short, hence power adder model.
As for hp plans, around 500 @12psi with the stock setup and new valve springs on e85. Sounds like Super Duty Santa Clause may be dropping a 273 t case, 1350 front shaft, and 1410 rear shaft at my door this weekend. Could be a hp plan changer.
03-01-2017, 10:21 AM
I will check on spline count. Will prolly run the 1356 with previous mentioned mods and go from there.
