Test Drive PIDs?
#1
Test Drive PIDs?
First, let me say that I have read just about everything in the Tech folder about buying a used 6.0. I have a Scangauge and Forscan. I plan to use Forscan for test drives and the Scanguage as my monitor after I get my truck.
What I haven't seen, at least not all in one place, is which PIDs to look at during a test drive. Here's what I have come up with:
FICMSYNC - Yes
FICM_LPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 9.5 volts
FICM_MPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, around 48 volts, below 45 volts FICM is bad NOTE: Watch this voltage when you are accelerating, like to get on a highway. If the voltage drops below 45 and your battery voltage is good (13.3v or higher), then the FICM is probably dying.
FICM_VPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 9.5 volts (should be same as VPWR)
VPWR volts - KOEO, Cranking, Running, between 10.0 and 14.5
ECT - first KOEO, should be outside air temp. This means the truck hasn't been warmed up before you got there.
EOT/ECT - after warm-up, 65mpg for 20 minutes, 188-195 ECT and oil 188-?, no more than 15 degree difference on flat ground
ICP voltage .18-.24-5.0v as 5.0=4000psi
x1000 ICP - min 500psi for engine to start
x1000 ICP_DES - should be close to x1000 ICP
IPR - Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR = 29%
Cold engine high idle ICP = 960psi IPR = 33%
Warm engine low idle ICP = 580-650psi IPR = 21-24%
Warm engine high idle ICP = 735psi IPR = 28%
If engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP might have an internal high pressure oil leak. 2500rpm=40%
Any additions/deletions/corrections?
Thanks,
Rick L.
What I haven't seen, at least not all in one place, is which PIDs to look at during a test drive. Here's what I have come up with:
FICMSYNC - Yes
FICM_LPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 9.5 volts
FICM_MPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, around 48 volts, below 45 volts FICM is bad NOTE: Watch this voltage when you are accelerating, like to get on a highway. If the voltage drops below 45 and your battery voltage is good (13.3v or higher), then the FICM is probably dying.
FICM_VPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 9.5 volts (should be same as VPWR)
VPWR volts - KOEO, Cranking, Running, between 10.0 and 14.5
ECT - first KOEO, should be outside air temp. This means the truck hasn't been warmed up before you got there.
EOT/ECT - after warm-up, 65mpg for 20 minutes, 188-195 ECT and oil 188-?, no more than 15 degree difference on flat ground
ICP voltage .18-.24-5.0v as 5.0=4000psi
x1000 ICP - min 500psi for engine to start
x1000 ICP_DES - should be close to x1000 ICP
IPR - Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR = 29%
Cold engine high idle ICP = 960psi IPR = 33%
Warm engine low idle ICP = 580-650psi IPR = 21-24%
Warm engine high idle ICP = 735psi IPR = 28%
If engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP might have an internal high pressure oil leak. 2500rpm=40%
Any additions/deletions/corrections?
Thanks,
Rick L.
Last edited by Flaman; 02-26-2017 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Updated with personal experience :(
#2
First, let me say that I have read just about everything in the Tech folder about buying a used 6.0. I have a Scangauge and Forscan. I plan to use Forscan for test drives and the Scanguage as my monitor after I get my truck.
What I haven't seen, at least not all in one place, is which PIDs to look at during a test drive. Here's what I have come up with:
FICMSYNC - Yes Sure, if this doesn't happen, it won't start!
FICM_LPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 7 volts not <9.5v
FICM_MPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, around 48 volts <45v, it's toast
FICM_VPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 7 volts (should be same as VPWR) not <9.5v
VPWR volts - KOEO, Cranking, Running, between 11.5 and 13.5 10.0-14.5v
ECT - first KOEO, should be outside air temp. This means the truck hasn't been warmed up before you got there. YUP, ECT/EOT should match
EOT/ECT - after warm-up, 65mpg for 20 minutes, no more than 15 degree difference. 188-195ECT and oil 188-?, no more than 15* flat ground
ICP voltage 0.15 - 4.7 .18-.24-5.0v as 5.0=4000psi
x1000 ICP - min 500psi for engine to start yes
x1000 ICP_DES - should be close to x1000 ICP sure
IPR - Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR = 29% sure
Cold engine high idle ICP = 960psi IPR = 33% sure
Warm engine low idle ICP = 585psi IPR = 24% 580-650psi 21-24%
Warm engine high idle ICP = 735psi IPR = 28%
If engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP might have an internal high pressure oil leak. 2500rpm=40%
Any additions/deletions/corrections?
Thanks,
Rick L.
What I haven't seen, at least not all in one place, is which PIDs to look at during a test drive. Here's what I have come up with:
FICMSYNC - Yes Sure, if this doesn't happen, it won't start!
FICM_LPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 7 volts not <9.5v
FICM_MPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, around 48 volts <45v, it's toast
FICM_VPWR - KOEO, Cranking, Running, not below 7 volts (should be same as VPWR) not <9.5v
VPWR volts - KOEO, Cranking, Running, between 11.5 and 13.5 10.0-14.5v
ECT - first KOEO, should be outside air temp. This means the truck hasn't been warmed up before you got there. YUP, ECT/EOT should match
EOT/ECT - after warm-up, 65mpg for 20 minutes, no more than 15 degree difference. 188-195ECT and oil 188-?, no more than 15* flat ground
ICP voltage 0.15 - 4.7 .18-.24-5.0v as 5.0=4000psi
x1000 ICP - min 500psi for engine to start yes
x1000 ICP_DES - should be close to x1000 ICP sure
IPR - Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR = 29% sure
Cold engine high idle ICP = 960psi IPR = 33% sure
Warm engine low idle ICP = 585psi IPR = 24% 580-650psi 21-24%
Warm engine high idle ICP = 735psi IPR = 28%
If engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP might have an internal high pressure oil leak. 2500rpm=40%
Any additions/deletions/corrections?
Thanks,
Rick L.
#3
#4
I am headed out Saturday to look at a package deal, 2004 F250 XLT 6.0 4x4 188000 mile and a 2006 F350 4x4 6.0 240000 miles. Not sure of the trim level on the F350, but it has leather seats. Both run and drive and have clean titles. The F250 has a "knock" in the engine. I know I just read a thread about a knock, so I am going to look it up. The price they are asking for both is ridiculously low. The dealer says they took them in on trade and they have to sell together. I'm thinking they just don't want to deal with the 6.0 engines.
Wish me luck,
Rick L.
Wish me luck,
Rick L.
#7
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#11
So I went and spent three and a half hours on Saturday looking at the 2004 F250 XLT SuperCab 4x4 and the 2006 F350 Lariat CrewCab 4x4 DRW. Both are bank repos. The asking price was $11,000.00 for both. I offered $7000.00 and they came down to $7500.00, for both. The only reason I didn't buy them is because I went and looked at a 2004 F350 King Ranch DRW with 200000 miles on it that I had been watching for a few weeks. It's a good truck and I only went $400 over what I had decided I was willing to pay. (It also matched the color scheme of my 2014 Expedition EL King Ranch, but that didn't have any impact on my decision to buy. LOL!)
Here's the details on the twofer deal:
2004 F250 XLT SuperCab 4x4 188,000 miles:
I still think, for the price, this is a good deal. I believe the seller is just flipping them for the bank for a set fee, so he doesn't have any skin in the game. The trucks are in Miami, FL.
If you're interested in the trucks and want more info, PM me.
Later,
Rick L.
Here's the details on the twofer deal:
2004 F250 XLT SuperCab 4x4 188,000 miles:
- Cosmetics: Not too bad. No serious body damage. Interior is cloth seats and rubber floor mat and was in surprisingly good shape.
- Mechanical: DTC on the 4x4 solenoid, so I didn't try putting it into 4 wheel drive. The seller wouldn't let me take it on the highway because he didn't trust it, but from my test drive I would have taken it on the highway. Aftermarket rims with big tires. A/C not working. Radio not working. A number of DTCs, but nothing I would consider major. The drivers side SuperCab door would not open. Transmission and oil were full. Transmission fluid was nice and pink and did not smell or look burned.
- Engine: All the PIDs listed above were in range. Didn't get to do the EOT/ECT test. The power steering pump was leaking badly, but I didn't see any other leaks. No sign of puking. Not sure if Degas cap was Ford OEM or not. It was just a plain black cap. The engine has a definite knock on the drivers side down low. In my opinion it is the power steering pump. If it isn't, then it is probably a rod or main bearing.
- All in all this truck was the better of the two. It needs work, but I think it would be a good solid truck when it's done.
- Cosmetics: Rough but restorable. Took a medium hit to the passenger side rear bumper. Bumper is pushed in. Support rod for fender is broken off at the top. DRW fender flare has multiple cracks from the hit, but not more than most duallys I see around. Passenger side front towing ring is missing. Interior is really rough. This was the truck I was going to keep and if I had I would have looked for a good used replacement interior.
- Mechanicals: OBD fuse was blown. Replaced it with one I had with me and was able to connect. Radio worked, A/C did not. TBC fault was displaying on the dash. A number of DTC codes, but nothing I would consider major. Transmission and oil were full. Transmission fluid was nice and pink and did not smell or look burned.
- Engine: All PIDs listed above were spot on. Underneath engine is covered in wet and grimy oil, so it has oil leaks. I didn't get to do the EOT/ECT test because it only had 4 tires on it and they were all smooth as a babies bottom, so I didn't trust it on the highway. Engine ran great and pulled really strong, stronger than the F250. No ticks, knocks or weird noises. No sign of puking. Not sure if Degas cap was Ford OEM or not. It was just a plain black cap.
- This was the rougher of the two trucks, but with some elbow grease I think it could be brought back.
I still think, for the price, this is a good deal. I believe the seller is just flipping them for the bank for a set fee, so he doesn't have any skin in the game. The trucks are in Miami, FL.
If you're interested in the trucks and want more info, PM me.
Later,
Rick L.
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