Diesel still in oil, even with e-fuel. Am I going to die?
#46
Sorry Bubba, since Jim is here I got a ?
Jim about 8 months ago I got my injectors on my 01 f250 7.3 rebuild by you guys, after a a couple hundred miles the some of the injectors starting knocking pretty bad once the truck warmed up. I did a contribution test and passed, injector Buzz pass, but upon removing the vc I noticed two injectors on the passenger side knocking noise on cylinder 3 and 5, I unplug cylinder 5 knocking stoped immediately, when I went to remove #3 I noticed that the engine didn't stumble or made a difference when I unplugged the solenoid. Oil was spewing from the spout normal like the rest. I changed the two injectors out with two good injectors and The knocking stoped and the RPMs didn't fluctuate no more. The two injectors I removed had black cups, and I know for a fact those two injectors were sent out with the rest of the injectors I sent to you guys, also a note those two were on a another truck that was consuming oil like a sob.
My truck was also getting oil in the fuel, I thought it was a bad injector O ring but all O rings looked great? I'm sending out the two injectors out to you guys soon, to see what went wrong? What would make an injector knock that bad? Why was oil getting to the fuel bowl? And why was it that the only two injectors with black cups causing this? (By black I mean they are black in color, not because of compression escaping that's the actual color of the cups)
Jim about 8 months ago I got my injectors on my 01 f250 7.3 rebuild by you guys, after a a couple hundred miles the some of the injectors starting knocking pretty bad once the truck warmed up. I did a contribution test and passed, injector Buzz pass, but upon removing the vc I noticed two injectors on the passenger side knocking noise on cylinder 3 and 5, I unplug cylinder 5 knocking stoped immediately, when I went to remove #3 I noticed that the engine didn't stumble or made a difference when I unplugged the solenoid. Oil was spewing from the spout normal like the rest. I changed the two injectors out with two good injectors and The knocking stoped and the RPMs didn't fluctuate no more. The two injectors I removed had black cups, and I know for a fact those two injectors were sent out with the rest of the injectors I sent to you guys, also a note those two were on a another truck that was consuming oil like a sob.
My truck was also getting oil in the fuel, I thought it was a bad injector O ring but all O rings looked great? I'm sending out the two injectors out to you guys soon, to see what went wrong? What would make an injector knock that bad? Why was oil getting to the fuel bowl? And why was it that the only two injectors with black cups causing this? (By black I mean they are black in color, not because of compression escaping that's the actual color of the cups)
#47
FYI... If you're having a hard time finding that adapter, here's a couple sources:
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/04254355
Hydraulic Fittings and Adapters: Conversion Adapters, 7045-02-10
Brennan 7045-02-10, 02FP-10mm Male Straight - ROYAL SUPPLY - I think this one is labeled wrong as the part number is correct but there is no such thing as a 5/8" mm.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/04254355
Hydraulic Fittings and Adapters: Conversion Adapters, 7045-02-10
Brennan 7045-02-10, 02FP-10mm Male Straight - ROYAL SUPPLY - I think this one is labeled wrong as the part number is correct but there is no such thing as a 5/8" mm.
No worries z31freakify either for asking! I don't know much about these injections systems myself yet but I'm learning. Do you think something with the copper crush washers could maybe play a role in your issues and make those cups black?
I've been trying to read things about what a not fully seated injector or bad copper crush gaskets would do, but I haven't found much on that so I'm just throwing ideas out there. (Secretly hoping maybe an injector of mine just isn't fully seated, but I doubt it's not that simple)
Last edited by Bubba Jones; 02-24-2017 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Edited line spacing. It looks much better in the reply box before posting but after it's a little awkward.
#48
No it's not compression getting thru, those two injectors are actually black as in painted black and not from soot, they were remans from who knows who, then all 8 injectors got sent out to Rosewood for a rebuild, the odd thing was that those two injectors that have the black cups are the ones that were causing the problem, oil in fuel, surging idle, and terrible knock, almost sounded like a rod knock in my Sig work truck? I'm calling Jim on Monday to see why the injectors were doing this. I spoke to him a few months back but due to being busy at work I kind of forgot about it.
Last edited by z31freakify; 02-24-2017 at 07:22 PM. Reason: Didn't make since???
#52
#53
#54
Thanks again Glenn! I just checked they updated the delivery to today! Hopefully it will fit inside our mailbox package area (the mailboxes are all set up right in front of the ranch entrance) or otherwise I'll have to run down to the post office if they are still open.
#55
Well I don't know if things are looking to well for me. I received the compression tester than Glenn let me borrow.
Now, my motor hasn't been started for about a week and it was about 50 to 60 degrees out so it's dead cold. Here are my first readings:
1: 290
3: 280
5: 265
7: 280
2: 300
4: 310
6: 260
8: 260
I had the air filter off, all the glow plugs out and cranked about 10 revolutions for each one.
How bad are these numbers? Does this motor seem like it's done for? As of now, I'm warming it up to try and get a warm test just to see if things look up for me. I was a little worried to try it at operating temperature but I want to see what it really should be.
The thing is, it started up flawless and quickly after putting the glow plugs back in and starting it up. It also didn't really smoke at all. If the compression really is this bad, these motors sure run great even if they aren't doing so well.
What are your guys thoughts?
Now, my motor hasn't been started for about a week and it was about 50 to 60 degrees out so it's dead cold. Here are my first readings:
1: 290
3: 280
5: 265
7: 280
2: 300
4: 310
6: 260
8: 260
I had the air filter off, all the glow plugs out and cranked about 10 revolutions for each one.
How bad are these numbers? Does this motor seem like it's done for? As of now, I'm warming it up to try and get a warm test just to see if things look up for me. I was a little worried to try it at operating temperature but I want to see what it really should be.
The thing is, it started up flawless and quickly after putting the glow plugs back in and starting it up. It also didn't really smoke at all. If the compression really is this bad, these motors sure run great even if they aren't doing so well.
What are your guys thoughts?
#57
Well I was letting my truck idle when I typed this post but then I heard it die. I went outside and it was off.
My fuel pressure on my electric gauge was reading 0psi. My truck would fire over and idle, but idle rough and slowly idle worse and worse until shutting off. While cranking and at idle, the gauge was still reading 0psi.
I put in my mechanical gauge on the pressure regulator and that gauge also read 0 psi during crank and idle. HOWEVER, the truck would still start up and do so somewhat quickly each time, but it does start to act like it's running low on fuel. It starts to stumble, then run worse and worse until it dies.
My truck didn't warm up much at all, but here are the numbers again after letting it idle for roughly 5 or so minutes.
1: 320
3: 295
5: 280
7: 310
2: 300
4: 320
6: 280
8: 300
The elevation in here in Fort McDowell is around 1440.
So, those numbers still look awfully low to me, but the engine didn't get to warm up much. Now I have a new question.
What could cause the fuel pressure to read 0 but have the truck still run? The pressure reading is at the fuel pressure regulator which I assume is AFTER the injectors. So I'm thinking fuel is being pumped to injectors, but somewhere along the way its finding it's way out so the regulator is reading very low.
When I took the electric pressure gauge sender out of the unit, I heard fuel gurgling, but no fuel came out. Before, when I opened that port, fuel sprayed out so I know fuel should be pressurized against that gauge. Therefore the low readings don't seem like a complete fluke.
EDIT:
Fuel system should be okay.... I had the fuel supply shut off when I took of the filters. I'm going to warm up my truck now for real.
My fuel pressure on my electric gauge was reading 0psi. My truck would fire over and idle, but idle rough and slowly idle worse and worse until shutting off. While cranking and at idle, the gauge was still reading 0psi.
I put in my mechanical gauge on the pressure regulator and that gauge also read 0 psi during crank and idle. HOWEVER, the truck would still start up and do so somewhat quickly each time, but it does start to act like it's running low on fuel. It starts to stumble, then run worse and worse until it dies.
My truck didn't warm up much at all, but here are the numbers again after letting it idle for roughly 5 or so minutes.
1: 320
3: 295
5: 280
7: 310
2: 300
4: 320
6: 280
8: 300
The elevation in here in Fort McDowell is around 1440.
So, those numbers still look awfully low to me, but the engine didn't get to warm up much. Now I have a new question.
What could cause the fuel pressure to read 0 but have the truck still run? The pressure reading is at the fuel pressure regulator which I assume is AFTER the injectors. So I'm thinking fuel is being pumped to injectors, but somewhere along the way its finding it's way out so the regulator is reading very low.
When I took the electric pressure gauge sender out of the unit, I heard fuel gurgling, but no fuel came out. Before, when I opened that port, fuel sprayed out so I know fuel should be pressurized against that gauge. Therefore the low readings don't seem like a complete fluke.
EDIT:
Fuel system should be okay.... I had the fuel supply shut off when I took of the filters. I'm going to warm up my truck now for real.
#58
What Adam said. My last motor fell in the 'OK' range.
Edit:That's much better, you could get by with those readings. I had a fuel pump quit on me twice on the road and didn't even know it until I listened to the injectors. They were making noise but the truck keep running. The injectors have the ability to 'suck' fuel and keep running. Its not good for the injectors though.
Edit again: I didn't see the fuel was shut off?? I guess there was enough in the system to start it.
Edit:That's much better, you could get by with those readings. I had a fuel pump quit on me twice on the road and didn't even know it until I listened to the injectors. They were making noise but the truck keep running. The injectors have the ability to 'suck' fuel and keep running. Its not good for the injectors though.
Edit again: I didn't see the fuel was shut off?? I guess there was enough in the system to start it.
#59
Yes I had the fuel valve shut off for the pre filter and forgot to turn it back on. There was still enough in the filters and the lines for it to run for a bit until it ran dry.
I hope I didn't hurt the injectors too much by doing that. It ran rough a little but seemed like it may have cleared up now, the PSI is back up to 70.
I'm going to let it idle for maybe 15 minutes or so to get it to full operating temperature then test one more time.
If my compression numbers stay the same (or go up), would any of this seem to indicate a condition where fuel would be entering the crankcase? I would have thought the numbers would have to be a bit lower on one or two cylinders for a condition to be like that.
I hope I didn't hurt the injectors too much by doing that. It ran rough a little but seemed like it may have cleared up now, the PSI is back up to 70.
I'm going to let it idle for maybe 15 minutes or so to get it to full operating temperature then test one more time.
If my compression numbers stay the same (or go up), would any of this seem to indicate a condition where fuel would be entering the crankcase? I would have thought the numbers would have to be a bit lower on one or two cylinders for a condition to be like that.
#60
The experts will have to weigh in but your last sentence says it, I think. They all have compression, no dead cylinder.
I have a fuel pump shut off toggle switch so if I'm working on something I can shut off the pump. Sometimes I forget to flip it back on but I've learned the sound now of starving injectors and run to flip it back on, lol.
I have a fuel pump shut off toggle switch so if I'm working on something I can shut off the pump. Sometimes I forget to flip it back on but I've learned the sound now of starving injectors and run to flip it back on, lol.