I've been looking at bushings available from different suppliers. Some look to have front and rear bushings that are the same while others have one piece with a longer nipple end. Some are black, red or blue. Is one type better than the others for a stock truck?
Thanks.
john

 

The front and rear radius arm bushings are different.

 

Suggest review article on Polyurethane vs Rubber radius arm bushings, comes down to a matter of preference. In my cast, the 65 front end alignment was off so recently decided to replaced. Approx. 15 years earlier replaced them with 'rubber' bushings when I upgraded to front disc. brakes but I felt they should have held up better so decided to try the orange flavored Polyurethane variety. Installed with ease and pleased with the fit. Decided to change I-Beam bushing while the front suspension was disassembled.

Suggest make a list of the torque values for the front suspension components for the reassembly, certainly made a significant difference in improving front end alignment!!.

 

Thanks for the replies. Daveengelson, by I-beam bushings are you referring to the king pins and bushings?

 

Not sure if it's referred to as the 'axle pivot bushing', or the 'I Beam pivot bushing', it's a single bushing at the swivel point on each I Beam, DC has them listed a P/N C5TZ-3B177-A. Perhaps another member can provide part and item description. If the current bushing appear okay may consider leaving?

 

C5TZ-3B177-A .. Axle Pivot Bushing - 2 1/4" O.D. x 5/8" I.D.

Pivot bushing shown as 3B177 in pic:

 

Thanks again. I wasn't really aware of that other bushing. I'm getting ready to rebuild my front suspension, so I really appriciate the info.
john

 

Something to be aware of, several types/brands of the aftermarket polyurethane suspension bushings require a special lube when installing, otherwise they can squeak like crazy. Other things to note, Most poly bushings are much stiffer than the original rubber bushings and can noticeably change the ride & handling characteristics of a vehicle, and last but not least, certain types of poly bushings do not react well when encountering petroleum based lubricants, especially ATF and old style power steering fluid.

As Dave mentioned, if you're trying to decide between the original rubber bushings and the newer poly bushings, do lots of research and reading beforehand. Personally I have no problem using poly suspension components in anything except a daily driver, the ride difference (stiffness) is negligible to me.

 

John, that axle pivot bushing can be very difficult. You will want to research the re&re techniques thoroughly. Good luck!
Eric

 

my axle pivot bushings fell out they were that bad. I replaced with rubber, but if you use the poly most of them say to keep the metal sleeves the old rubber bushings come in. keep track of which part came off of what side, as they look alike on the floor. I learned the hard way

 

Not sure if they 'pivot bushing' come in Poly; if so, suggest going with the rubber, I found it to be a very tight fit so rubber may offer some flexibility? Again, torque assembly to spec's.

 

Thanks everyone. I will deal with the pivot bushings when I dive into the suspension in a week or two.

 

I just finished my '66 front end today. Fortunately there is no body in it or the job would have been even more difficult. With new bushings, it's quite difficult to get everything back on as I had to pull the radius arms back with a ratchet strap & then everything went in. I went with the Energy Suspension radius arm bushings but on the pivot arms, I had 2 NOS bushings with the shells as the old ones were no good. The left side pivot arm went pretty easy but the right side I had to ream the hell out of the hole as the new bushing wouldn't press in no matter what I did (first a hammer, then my Harbor Freight bottle jack press)

I am so sore I feel like I went a few rounds on the field with Dick Butkus (Chicago Bears linebacker 1965-73) LOL.

 

I had a nearby brake shop press my pivot arm bushings in. For $20 bucks it was worth it. There was no way that mine were going in easily.

 

For pivot bushings, throw the bushing in the freezer overnight, then heat the I beam with a torch. Using a ball joint press (free from most auto stores) with my impact gun they usually slip right in.