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I ran 37s with a 6 inch lift on my 6.2 for almost 3 years until I traded it. I did it right by the book, regeared to 4.30, lengthened the driveshafts, carrier bearing dropped and it ran as good as stock, better than stock really. If deeper gears were available at the time I would have went at least 4.56. I got tired of the big lift and a daily driver and the price difference between 35s and 37s is quite a bit. I'm running 35s on my leveled 16 and have no regrets, probably will add a 4 inch lift looking for a better ride.
Berndude, what motor is in the Ex? How did the suspensions swap go? It looks great.
Thank you!! it is a 2016 with a 6.7 Diesel, The place I bought it did the suspension, all ProComp, warrantied by 4 wheel parts.
Just took it in to them, I have a little over 500 miles on it and things were rattling, 4 wheel parts fixed it all found major mistakes made by the dealer that installed the suspension
This is one of the benefits of going with 4" lift, if money is tight when it's time to buy tires next time, 35's will still look ok. 4.88 gears would still be ok with 35's. Not much lower than a factory 4.30 245/70r17 truck at all.
Thanks for all the feedback guys, great to here everyone is happy with the 37's. I've pretty much made up my mind on going with nitto ridge grapplers. It's good to here that y'all are happy with the Toyo RT's because the two are sister tires to each other, sharing the same rubber compound and carcass. The tread and sidewall design are different and I prefer the looks of the ridge grappler sidewall a little more. Keep the feedback coming, and no one ever complains about to many pics. Would love a close up of your offset Matt, since you have the 4" lift.
Ron, I did some looking and it looks like my offset is -11, that's from a buddy that works at discount tire. I'll try and get some pictures up soon. Just got back from a work trip.
Thanks Matt. That's pushing it for a no rub offset with a 4" lift. The fuel mavericks im ordering will be +1. Probably going to start ordering stuff next weekend. Worked 64 hours last week and 16 hours on Presidents' Day, which was a holiday, so double time and a half. Hopefully Uncle Sam will leave me some of my bounty. All this while trying to finish a side job.
I did find this picture of a 3.5" readylift and 37's. Really like the stance. I'm stoked. We have a cabin for the rod runs in pigeon forge TN April 7th and 8th. Told my wife it will be lifted by then or I'm not going, she just rolled her eyes.
I am making this exact decision right now 35 vs. 37. 2012 F350 Crew, longbed, 6.2L 4x4, 4.30's. right now the 20" with the 34" tires don't look big enough and this is after swapping out the 17" with 32" tires!!
I am looking to do "maybe" a 3-4" lift. I like a small lift for a daily driver, nothing crazy. However, I ran into a guy at the gas station a few weeks back and I approached him to ask about his 33's. He told me he had 35's on there. I couldn't believe it! But...he was also running a 6" lift. Anything that big needs 37's b/c 35's just look too small.
I think I'm going with the 35's but following this thread to get input from others!
I just bought some new wheels off Craigslist and I think I will be going with 37's when it's time for new tires. He had 37's on his 2011 with a level and they hardly rubbed. His 37x13.50R20s on the wheels I bought rubbed less than mine do with a level and 36x13R18s on stock wheels.
I just bought some new wheels off Craigslist and I think I will be going with 37's when it's time for new tires. He had 37's on his 2011 with a level and they hardly rubbed. His 37x13.50R20s on the wheels I bought rubbed less than mine do with a level and 36x13R18s on stock wheels.
Be careful with that, if you have 4800# springs and he has 6000# springs, he is going to sit an inch higher. Stock wheels are going to rub the radius arms hard with anything bigger than a 35, but you will have more bumper and fender clerance. Radius arm rub is just annoying, fender and bumper rubbing tends to be a problem requiring correction of some means.
Ron, here's a few pictures that may help you. The back of my wheel says 9x20-111. The pictures show how much clearance I have in the front with the wheel maxed out...my biggest problem hitting any kind of bump. If anyone has any ideas on where to trim, I'm all ears.
Front wheel straight XD811, 20x9-111 Real wheel Left tire maxed left. About the same clearance as it travels. Right tire maxed left Left tire maxed right Right tire maxed right How far tires come past body
I'd say your rub is just on the rear liner. Readylifts kit actually comes with brackets to hold them back some. You could make some brackets or some people just use big wire ties. Check the corner of your front valance for signs of rubbing. Some people clip the corners just a little, or you could do like I've already done and put a shorter 2wd valance on. The bumper brackets can be trimmed down a bit, but if they were hitting, you should definitely see signs of it on your tire, and it's a much worse sound and feeling capable of bending your bumper and cutting your tire.
02-15-2017, 07:52 PM
