Just Purchased 94 F-250 - Couple Questions
#1
Just Purchased 94 F-250 - Couple Questions
Hi All,
Just bought a 94 F-250 today. 351, Stick, 4x4, ECLB. It's a fairly basic XL with 192k on it. It drives well and has a lot of recent work done, but it needs a few things. That leads me to some questions:
1) There is an open nipple with nothing attached on the valve cover where the oil cap is. What is supposed to go here? Just a breather or is there supposed to be a hose on it?
I can get a picture tomorrow if needed.
2) 1 Lug Stud is broke on a rear wheel. Do I need to remove the axle shaft to fix this?
3) The steering wheel has play. And no, not the steering system, just the wheel. If you grab it with both hands, you can shake the wheel in the direction of the driver. As if there is some sort of bearing or carrier in the column that's bad. Shaking the wheel does not move the shaft or u-joint under the dash. Is this a common issue? I haven't tried taking anything apart to investigate yet.
4) It has the 50/50 split cloth front bench. Typical wear on the drivers side lower. Any suggestions on inexpensive but durable options for covers?
Thanks in advance
Just bought a 94 F-250 today. 351, Stick, 4x4, ECLB. It's a fairly basic XL with 192k on it. It drives well and has a lot of recent work done, but it needs a few things. That leads me to some questions:
1) There is an open nipple with nothing attached on the valve cover where the oil cap is. What is supposed to go here? Just a breather or is there supposed to be a hose on it?
I can get a picture tomorrow if needed.
2) 1 Lug Stud is broke on a rear wheel. Do I need to remove the axle shaft to fix this?
3) The steering wheel has play. And no, not the steering system, just the wheel. If you grab it with both hands, you can shake the wheel in the direction of the driver. As if there is some sort of bearing or carrier in the column that's bad. Shaking the wheel does not move the shaft or u-joint under the dash. Is this a common issue? I haven't tried taking anything apart to investigate yet.
4) It has the 50/50 split cloth front bench. Typical wear on the drivers side lower. Any suggestions on inexpensive but durable options for covers?
Thanks in advance
#2
1) that nipple is for the PCV system if we are thinking of same thing. Yes it is crucial or you will get sludge build up in your engine. It creates the positive crankcase pressure in the heads.
2) depends on your axle type. semi floating or full floating
3) jack up front end and start pulling on stuff. if 4x4 and f-250 then it has a leaf sprung TTB. If the steering wheel has a lot of play back and forth with the truck off then check pivot beam bushings. Keep in mind the stock steering box sometimes causes some play and even with a straight front end requires a tilt to one side to drive straight.
Take it to a front end shop that knows what they are doing. Hard to find..
4) There are custom aftermarket options. I have no experience with any. someone will come along and suggest something.
2) depends on your axle type. semi floating or full floating
3) jack up front end and start pulling on stuff. if 4x4 and f-250 then it has a leaf sprung TTB. If the steering wheel has a lot of play back and forth with the truck off then check pivot beam bushings. Keep in mind the stock steering box sometimes causes some play and even with a straight front end requires a tilt to one side to drive straight.
Take it to a front end shop that knows what they are doing. Hard to find..
4) There are custom aftermarket options. I have no experience with any. someone will come along and suggest something.
#4
#7
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#8
#9
You may have to remove the rear hub to get the lug replaced. I'd take the tire and brake drum off, and see if you can get to it from there, if not the axle comes of easily, but there is a big *** nut holding the hub on. You'll need a thin wall socket to get it off, or chisel around the outside of it.
For the steering wheel I'd start at the wheel and work towards the steering gear to find what's loose. The horn button just pulls free. Grab it on both sides and pull it towards you. You can then see if the nut holding the wheel on is loose. I think there are a couple threads here where someone has rebuilt their steering column. Those may come in handy.
For the steering wheel I'd start at the wheel and work towards the steering gear to find what's loose. The horn button just pulls free. Grab it on both sides and pull it towards you. You can then see if the nut holding the wheel on is loose. I think there are a couple threads here where someone has rebuilt their steering column. Those may come in handy.
#10
I found this thread related to the steering wheel issue. Symptoms in the original post are a bit different than what I have, but maybe mine is a less-advanced case:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-write-up.html
Thankfully that's a job that can be done from the warmth of the cab. Unfortunately I may pay someone to deal with the lug stud - should be a quick enough job for a qualified shop that it's worth me avoiding the hassle in my current scenario. Living in the city now, truck is currently parked a bit down the road from my house halfway into a snowbank.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-write-up.html
Thankfully that's a job that can be done from the warmth of the cab. Unfortunately I may pay someone to deal with the lug stud - should be a quick enough job for a qualified shop that it's worth me avoiding the hassle in my current scenario. Living in the city now, truck is currently parked a bit down the road from my house halfway into a snowbank.
#12
Video showing open breather, and also showing a hose coming from the airbox, but not going to the breather hole.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByP...1PUkpGS28/view
Pic:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByP...1PUkpGS28/view
Pic:
#13
The opening on the valve cover is where fresh air goes into the crankcase to replace the air pulled out of the crankcase by manifold vacuum through the PCV valve. It should be clean, filtered air as it is in essence a controlled vacuum leak. Leaving nothing on that opening is allowing dirty air to enter the valve cover. Get the hose hooked back up before driving much more (or at all). Yes the diagram you posted is correct, go with that routing. Edit: I forget how much extra plumbing there is on the dual thermactor equipped trucks! The setup on yours is not what I'm familiar with, but the PCV system should function the same as on the half ton 5.8L's.
Thats the first I've heard of that type of steering wheel play. I've only dug into a steering column once so I'll let other with more experience steer you in the right direction on that one.
Thats the first I've heard of that type of steering wheel play. I've only dug into a steering column once so I'll let other with more experience steer you in the right direction on that one.
#14
I guess where I'm confused is that I only see one fresh air port on the airbox. That's the one currently routed elsewhere (as shown in the video).
If I route that fresh air hose to the valve cover, then the existing connection is now open.
Does anyone happen to have a photo of a 94 250/350 5.8 engine bay?
If I route that fresh air hose to the valve cover, then the existing connection is now open.
Does anyone happen to have a photo of a 94 250/350 5.8 engine bay?
#15
Ok, Call me crazy.
Found this guy's video. Around 23-26 seconds in, you can see the valve where my rubber hose is connected has nothing connected to it.
So I guess the Previous Owner hooked up the line to something that should be open to atmosphere, as opposed to the valve cover that should have filtered air?
Found this guy's video. Around 23-26 seconds in, you can see the valve where my rubber hose is connected has nothing connected to it.
So I guess the Previous Owner hooked up the line to something that should be open to atmosphere, as opposed to the valve cover that should have filtered air?