Has anyone on here used Trickflow heads? I am just wondering how they compare to a set of 2V heads, specifically I am talking pre-1975 heads with better exhaust port. I see that the Trickflows are about $1900 new and come with studs, 72 CC chambers, decent valves and springs, and a more modern combustion chamber design.


Realistically, how much would it cost me to properly rebuilt a set of 2V heads, say convert them to stud mounted rockers, and install decent valves and springs. Will a set of Trickflows be a lot better than a properly rebuilt set of iron heads?

 

The TFS heads are night and day better than stock. Stock heads are awesome compared to other stock heads, but not compared to a aftermarket alloy head. Alloy heads also let you run about a half a point more compression. My TFS heads flow more at .400 lift than stock heads do with over .500 lift (TFS is more efficient). A pair of TFS 195 power ports cost me 2k, you will have close to that in rebuilding a set of stock heads and the TFS blows them away. If you can afford A set of TFS heads, get em, you wont be sorry. I have ran both, wont ever buy or refurbish a stock head again.

 

Thanks for the response. It sounds like they are great heads, and if I am going to spend even say $1500 to rebuild and modify my stock 2V heads, I am probably better off just to get the TFS heads.


Anyone have an idea what the cost is to rebuild a stock head these days?


Any other opinions?

 

yeah new heads are great but if your stock castings need $2k worth of work they're door stops, find a better set to start with and the cost to obtain them will actually be savings.

or find a machine shop that's not nut$

$1k in shop work is a LOT but prices do vary and travel time/shipping = money too. also add the extra cost of dished pistons to the new heads

 

I have no idea what the cost is to rebuild the heads, that's what I was asking. My heads are fine now, there on a running engine and have no issues, but have lots of miles and are bone stock. I saw in TMeyer's site he sells rebuilt heads for about $900, so maybe the machine work would be somewhere in that neighbourhood? If the costs is only about $800-900 for iron heads, then I don't know if the TFS heads are worth the extra money for me.


Does anyone here know what it costs to do up a set of 2V heads with performance upgrades?

 

you'd be surprised how whipped out a set of heads can be and still run pretty good. it's hard to price out work on your heads over the net, i like to shop bargains ahead of time so I'm not paying full boat retail. this is where knowledge and experience can save a few bucks but there's only so far you can go from the keyboard. certain nickel & dime things are best left to the shop doing the work to supply like spring shims, valve locks and even retainers because they are all used to make adjustments to the final assembly.

using your castings if they check good for cracks i would hope to come in under $900?
on the other hand Tim's price is pretty fair for not doing anything but picking up the phone

your heads may need only a guide or 2 if the rest are really good, or they may all be marginal & doing them all would be the best course, big price difference

same with the seats. I'd really prefer NOT to have seats replaced if not necessary

'performance upgrades' is somewhat of a blank check, first basic requirement is 1 piece valves and springs to match your cam. i have a source for valve hardware that beats anybody else's prices by far, you'll still need to know what your local shop or Tim would charge you to prep your castings and assemble (Tim may supply D5xx castings with the funky exhaust port so you might want to use your castings or specify 351C-2V at an extra charge)

basic minimum is 1 piece stainless valves, springs that match your cam and proper retainers. shop work 3 angle valve job, shims locks, clean & assemble. guides as needed or all? seats?

minimal port clean-up?

 

I am hoping my heads are not too rough. I know the history of the engine from day one (it was my dad's) and it's always been well maintained and cared for, but who knows like you said until you tear it apart.


Yes, I want to stick with my D1AE castings. I'd want to do at least the minimum upgrades you listed, maybe some port work, possibly convert to studs. I'd like to run a roller cam and roller rockers but I guess pedestal mounted rockers are an option.


I am basically just trying to budget and figure out what I am going to do with my engine build. I plan to pull the engine this fall. I am definitely getting parts from TMeyer at minimum and I would strongly consider sending the engine out to him if I can afford to do so. I have a local friend who can do the build, and he's got lots of experience. I am just not sure I trust the local machine shop options.

 

One thing factory heads can't do is quench. All aluminum heads have improved chamber designs that incorporate quench. Aussie (iron) heads have quench too but they flow as good as your stock 2v heads (still a good flowing head). Stock or aftermarket Pistons made for stock heads will not take advantage of the quench chambers and then you are wasting one of the biggest benefits of the new heads.

There are cheaper import aluminum heads to consider too but that's your call.

For reference I had my Aussie heads rebuilt for about $800 but I got the heads for free. If I had to pay for the heads and the rebuild cost I would have gone aluminum for sure (may still go aluminum some day too)