I have this truck that has a condenser mounted to the voltage regulator, that the wire just corroded and broke off, so I got another condenser from Auto zone, but it is smaller and doesn't have the same mount, but I wired it in and truck will not start, no spark, nothing, I am assuming its the wrong condenser, is the condenser I need the radio interference condenser?
Thx in advance,
Don

 

The condenser on the regulator is for suppression of radio noise that comes from alternator hash. The truck will run without it. Just take what you have off and see what you hear on the radio.
Who knows what kind of Chinese junk you bought? Bad condensers are a disease around here.

 

Hi Don,

Yes, the condenser is there to keep the spark noise out of your radio.

I see no correlation between this component and your no start problem.

Just for grin's and giggle's, remove the condenser and try and crank it. It should start with or without it.

Report back and let us know what you find.

 

Based on what your saying, maybe there is something else, I had to replace the inner fender where all that wiring is mounted, but was very careful not to disturb anything while disconnecting and moving to allow me to pull the old inner fender and replace with the new one, but maybe I did, I checked everything twice to make sure everything was connected, and the only issue was the broken condenser wire which was replaced and now no spark..seems strange to me. Ill check it all out again later. Thanks!!

 

Don, you say it won't start, nothing. Do you mean it will not crank in the "Start" position of the ignition switch?
Be aware that the solenoid takes its ground on the fender apron. If you break this ground, the solenoid will not put the battery to the starter.
Pull the solenoid and clean up the mating surface to the apron. You should have steel to steel.
You can also check by putting the trans in "Park" and briefly touching the + battery terminal to the S terminal of the solenoid. She should crank.
This is a long shot but as the above poster reinforced, there is no link between the regulator condenser and failure to start. You disturbed something.
Let us know what you find.

 

it turns over fine, just won't fire.

 

Check the starter relay thats on this drawing, i.e. the starting solenoid on that inner fender. Make sure you got the wires back the way they came off. Wire 262 is what sends voltage to your coil when you start it.

Dan

 

The next step is to run a jumper wire from the positive battery lead to the + coil.
And tell us what ignition you are running. Stock points, aftermarket stuff?
Do you have a multimeter to read ohms and volts?
We'll get you going, pal.

 

This is for after you get it running again. Ideas for additional grounds:

You can see the black wire is attached to the starter solenoid mount. The other end is attached to the firewall- on one of the heater fan bolts- I later added a wire to the horn relay.


I added a stud to the rad support, then extended the headlight ground wire up to the stud. Then ran new ground from the regulator to the stud- now it's easy to get to.


From the battery. Also, next to the frame ground is where the serial number is located.

 

Update, the day after I posted this i went back to the garage and looked everything over, and made sure that everything was connected correctly, (I had detailed pics on my phone)as I had to pull everything off to replace the inner fender, I re- tightened everything and it started right up. Thanks for all your advise and idea.. Much appreciated!!!!

 

Good Job and thanks for reporting back !!

 

Glad you found it. Great idea taking pictures before you take stuff apart. Sometimes it's hard to remember after you have a box of used parts in a box, where they all go back. It's happened to all of us at sometime.