It not a normal van it is an ambulance who know what the company that built it used.
Just checked Summit they have a 40 gal that is for a cutaway cab and chassis $900

 

Yep
Cool, thanks! I'm off to see if they have an associated sending unit. What I found at Summit is constructed differently, two pressed clam shells and one seam weld from what it looks like. The tank I have is two plates on the sides that are welded to a bent plate welded at a point I didn't see. Year doesn't match either so I could be looking at the wrong tank.
Titan Fuel Tanks 8020099-191 $968.05?

 

Is there a plate on the ambulance box identifying the company that made it? If so try and call them and see if they can tell if they made the tank or bought the tank. Don't be upset if they can not or will not help.

 

Thanks! Yes, that was a thought and I did try the email route to be a bit more cordial or less bothersome with the process, no email reply though.

It's a Wheeled Coach box and I've taken to the thought they likely didn't reinvent the wheel just for a sending unit so I've been plugging away with the hunt. As mentioned in the other thread I've been sent from this could all be narrowed to a fuel logged float but a new sending unit being I'm dropping the tank may be advantageous to longevity of the efforts made.

 

What type floor does the box have? There may be an access panel to the tank if not it may be easier to cut one than fight the tank

I think calling their parts and service would get you better results, you ask to talk to the old guy that may have built it vs somebody replying to email with sorry can't help.
Here is the number 855-661-9232

 

I concur about calling too. I almost never receive any help for my old cars via email. You gotta remember, the people who built your ambulance are probably in their 60's or 70's now (or older), and they don't like that new-fangled emailin'.

 

I dropped the tank and got the new sender working. However, I had to make a lot of changes to get it to function pretty close to what I want. I'll be making a bigger post soon with pictures of how I modified it.

 

Sorry I forgot to reply.
The interior floor is linoleum with a couple metal plates, one is about where the tank is, I'll measure it and see how close it is tomorrow.
The plates look to be glued down and I guess I should crawl back under before getting too far along with dropping the tank to take a look above the tank for the plates showing through the floor from underneath.

I think I have about 20 gallons of fuel in the tank still, the motorcycle jack may not fit so well. I've been juggling different approach angles looking at fuel lines and their routing

Wow, you guys are good! You got my number! I'll give it a spin and see what they have to say, Thanks!

Things sure were much easier to decipher verbally verses text!

Oh pics!

 

I'll be interested to see what all you had to do. I didn't take any pictures when I did mine, but I didn't have to modify too much.

Did you put any inline filters in the fuel lines prior to the selector valve? At first I didn't and ended up sucking up junk from the tank that killed the selector valve. After replacing it I added an inline filter prior to the valve to catch any larger particles that get sucked up. And take it from me, the selector valves aren't cheap. Bad part is that I thought about putting the inline filters in when I did the pickups and just got lazy.

 

I didn't put an inline filter, but I had dropped my tank last year to see if the brass float was full of fuel. At that point, we tried to clean the tank as best as possible, and upon inspection, determined that the PO had disposed of the "cone of failure" and installed a section of rubber hose. So, my tank did not have a lot of gunk in the bottom to warrant the use of a filter. However, I did make sure my fuel hose lands 1/8" from the bottom of the tank, with a few "V"'s cut into the hose, so I won't suck up a bunch of gunk or water someday. But we'll see how it lasts. I'm finishing my annotated post with the details of my conversion later today.

 

Also, I have an e-pump with a decent filter and clear housing, so I can see how the fuel is coming up from the tanks. For the most part, my fuel is pretty darn clean, so I'm not worried about the selector valves, but the in-line filter is a good suggestion for others dealing with the cone of failure replacement.

 

As long as you dont have any crud in the tank you should be fine, although it doesnt take a large amount of crud to prevent and break the selector valve. I believe the original shower heads had a screen to keep junk out. I just used the clear inline filter with a replacable element. They are a few bucks at any autoparts store.

i have the same epump, but it is after the selector valve.

it is quite possible that you will never have a problem, i just know that i did. Eventually i would like to swap to a 38 gallon rear tank and eliminate the selector valve all together. This would eliminate the need for the inline filter as well as opening up a lot of room underneath for other items i want......maybe that coolant powered heat exchanger and a house battery.

 

I've updated my website to have the IDI van Diesel fuel sender conversion explanation.

 

Cool pics and narrative! Thanks!
I have a call to make tomorrow and with any luck the call will help sort my fuel gauge issues.
I went back under the ambulance again today and don't see the metal plates I see from inside the box. Now I'm just left to wonder why they are there. All but one anchor point for gurneys or what have you is mounted on these plates so maybe some extra strength for the anchors I guess.
Ended up tinkering some in the box end today, velcro to stop a cabinet door from flailing open going around corners, replaced screws in drawer slides, tightened a few things....