Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start

2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.

I have recentlty been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.

Recent Work:
I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.


What have I done:
Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
FICM voltage 48v Key On.
FICM voltage 46v cranking

Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1

I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control

I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.

When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either.

I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS.

Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.

Looking for some additional advice.

Thanks

 

I indicated that the fuel injectors where initializing and the fuel pump works. That is not correct. The fuel injectors are NOT initializing nor is the fuel pump working.

 

Sounding like you're having similar issues as the guy in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-no-crank.html

He and I spoke on the phone and determined his PCM (for whatever reason) was not allowing the downside leg of the fuel relay to ground out, which would allow the coil to energize so the fuel pump could receive power. He also could not connect an OBD reader/scanner.

Are you checking for voltage at the Central Junction Box (CJB) or are you just checking for bad fuses?

The A/B wires being shorted might have caused an issue in the PCM Vref circuit since B is the 5 volts Vref and A is the ground.

 

Is your cigarette lighter working? Don't laugh. The OBD connector receives power on the same circuit as the cigarette lighter. If that fuse is blown you will not be able to pull codes. I was getting my truck smoged two years ago and the tech came in said they were not able to communicate with my computer. I knew what was wrong, changed out that blown fuse and everything went well from there. Bruce

 

What are your battery voltages?

 

When I get back later tonight if you want me to post the electronic engine wiring
diagram I will.
04 Ex correct?
I will also add anything I can think of when I make that post.

 

Linden,
The cigarette light is working, that was one of the first things I checked.

BP,
Battery voltages are 12.5. I have a charger on it now to refresh the charge.

Yama,
I agree the short on ICP a/b wires is probably going to bite me. Hopefully I didn't fry the pcm. I have been looking at Vref. I have 4.92 volts at ICP and EB sensors. No ground on sigrtn wire at either sensor. It is my understanding that none these sensors on Vref are required to start so I am wondering if I need to address this ground issue first of start looking closer at the pcm.


Thanks Guys.

 

If you can post engine wiring that would be great!

Thanks

 

I will get on it in a bit. Cleaning some linear bearings right now
and packing the ***** into the cage is a pain.

 

Ok, so here is where I am I have fixed the ground issue on the sigrtn. Still not cranking.

I have this Starting Diagnosis from the shop manual (attached). I ran down Pinpoint Test B. Got all the way down to B8 and I have 0.9 ohms . Per the diagnosis looks like a replacement pcm is what it is going to take.

I guess if I need to know if these can be plug and play or do I need a dealer to flash it.

 

That's a bummer. Not sure if some short on the Vref could damage the PCM, but some have mentioned that PCM's can fail and there is usually another reason for it. So before replacing the PCM, try to make sure all other areas are good as far as grounds, no chaffing, or shorts. You don't want to burn up another PCM. Apparently a dealer will most likely have to program the PCM for you to match up with your vehicle.

 

The PCM going belly up is not common. I have only seen 1 here that I have
helped the user with.

Sorry I did not get the data posted sort of of got misdirected last night.

 

Yeah, from what I gather the PCM rarely goes bad. I'm not pulling the trigger on replacing the PCM yet. With all the chaffing issues I can't imagine a short toasting the pcm. I would have expected to find a blown fuse first.

I want to run through the diagnostics one more time to double check myself. One thing that wasn't clear was the final check at B8 checking the ohms between pcm connector pin 4 and starter relay and I'm questioning if I did it correctly. I disconnected the PCM c1381 and check the ohms between the harness connector with the starter relay. I'm wondering if I should have checked between pin 4 on the pcm itself and the starer relay? It may not matter anyway because I did that first and got zero ohms anyway.

So, if I come up with the same results is this pretty much a slam dunk on a bad pcm?

 

You have an Excursion which I believe has the PATS system with the chipped key. So if you replace the pcm with a used one you'll need the matching key or reprogram the PCM. I ran into this once on an Explorer with a used pcm. I ended up changing out the key tumbler, key, & pcm from a donor vehicle to get it to run.

Speaking of PATS, do you have the security light flashing when you try to start it?

 

And does it have remote start,factory or aftermarket?