I'm back...with a 1990 Ford F-150 Regular Cab Short Box
#46
In the pics it looks like you have a broken rear spring or hanger...I would make sure everything is good before putting tires on or you will just ruin them. Springs, shocks, ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, tie rod ends etc.
I followed your IDI thread and have some advice and please don't take it the wrong way. Slow down on buying things that aren't needed. You want to make the truck safe and reliable before anything else. Be careful with mt tires in the snow. For example don't buy a new stereo or dual exhaust when you have a broken spring or wiper motor. I always had just as much fun planning what I wanted to do as actually doing it. An old truck like this will nickel and dime you to death if you aren't careful.
Just drive the truck around a for a bit. The best to learn how to drive a stick shift is to simply drive it. Get yourself a workshop manual. Remember: safe, reliable then everything else. Don't rush and have fun.
I followed your IDI thread and have some advice and please don't take it the wrong way. Slow down on buying things that aren't needed. You want to make the truck safe and reliable before anything else. Be careful with mt tires in the snow. For example don't buy a new stereo or dual exhaust when you have a broken spring or wiper motor. I always had just as much fun planning what I wanted to do as actually doing it. An old truck like this will nickel and dime you to death if you aren't careful.
Just drive the truck around a for a bit. The best to learn how to drive a stick shift is to simply drive it. Get yourself a workshop manual. Remember: safe, reliable then everything else. Don't rush and have fun.
#47
In the pics it looks like you have a broken rear spring or hanger...I would make sure everything is good before putting tires on or you will just ruin them. Springs, shocks, ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, tie rod ends etc.
I followed your IDI thread and have some advice and please don't take it the wrong way. Slow down on buying things that aren't needed. You want to make the truck safe and reliable before anything else. Be careful with mt tires in the snow. For example don't buy a new stereo or dual exhaust when you have a broken spring or wiper motor. I always had just as much fun planning what I wanted to do as actually doing it. An old truck like this will nickel and dime you to death if you aren't careful.
Just drive the truck around a for a bit. The best to learn how to drive a stick shift is to simply drive it. Get yourself a workshop manual. Remember: safe, reliable then everything else. Don't rush and have fun.
I followed your IDI thread and have some advice and please don't take it the wrong way. Slow down on buying things that aren't needed. You want to make the truck safe and reliable before anything else. Be careful with mt tires in the snow. For example don't buy a new stereo or dual exhaust when you have a broken spring or wiper motor. I always had just as much fun planning what I wanted to do as actually doing it. An old truck like this will nickel and dime you to death if you aren't careful.
Just drive the truck around a for a bit. The best to learn how to drive a stick shift is to simply drive it. Get yourself a workshop manual. Remember: safe, reliable then everything else. Don't rush and have fun.
Also, agreed.
#48
[QUOTE=DieselCamper;16934642]I almost never wash my things I sell. Plus, it's the middle of winter here, it's pretty much a waste of money to wash these things in the middle of winter.[/QUOTE
I don't like to leave all that salt accumulating and wash mine even thought it will get dirty again. 5 minutes and 8 bucks a couple times a month to drive through and have the underside sprayed off too. I guess we all just have different standards on how we take care of cars. A filthy for sale car is still a red flag to me on how the owner takes care of their stuff.
I don't like to leave all that salt accumulating and wash mine even thought it will get dirty again. 5 minutes and 8 bucks a couple times a month to drive through and have the underside sprayed off too. I guess we all just have different standards on how we take care of cars. A filthy for sale car is still a red flag to me on how the owner takes care of their stuff.
#49
[QUOTE=willowbilly3;16937691]
I'll probably go out and wash it tomorrow because you said something, haha.
Looks like there's a bad wire arcing to the block. Strange. Would explain the crappy gas mileage.
Got used as a ranch truck, hauled probably 1000 lbs of sandbags to the ranch.
I almost never wash my things I sell. Plus, it's the middle of winter here, it's pretty much a waste of money to wash these things in the middle of winter.[/QUOTE
I don't like to leave all that salt accumulating and wash mine even thought it will get dirty again. 5 minutes and 8 bucks a couple times a month to drive through and have the underside sprayed off too. I guess we all just have different standards on how we take care of cars. A filthy for sale car is still a red flag to me on how the owner takes care of their stuff.
I don't like to leave all that salt accumulating and wash mine even thought it will get dirty again. 5 minutes and 8 bucks a couple times a month to drive through and have the underside sprayed off too. I guess we all just have different standards on how we take care of cars. A filthy for sale car is still a red flag to me on how the owner takes care of their stuff.
Looks like there's a bad wire arcing to the block. Strange. Would explain the crappy gas mileage.
Got used as a ranch truck, hauled probably 1000 lbs of sandbags to the ranch.
#50
So there is definitely a plug wire arcing to the block. That would explain my crap gas mileage
Got the exhaust shop to cut off the muffler and put a straight pipe on it: $40
Bought a new air filter: $13.99
Bought some better headlights, partly because I like them, partly because the brights were out on one of em. Sylvania Ultras: $54.99
Total: $1890.92
Got the exhaust shop to cut off the muffler and put a straight pipe on it: $40
Bought a new air filter: $13.99
Bought some better headlights, partly because I like them, partly because the brights were out on one of em. Sylvania Ultras: $54.99
Total: $1890.92
#51
The second picture in post 1, makes it look like the passenger side rear spring hanger is broken. I think the spring would have put a hole in the bed hauling sand bags if that were the case though. Regardless, not a bad idea to take a look at them. They're riveted to the frame, and are the rear leaf spring mounts. They have an upward facing cup that holds dirt/water/salt and tend to rot. Smack the bottom end with a hammer if questionable, they should not dent..
#52
The plug was cracked so it was arcing to the heat shield thing. Runs way better now.
Motor makes a ticking noise when under load. No tickets when revving in neutral or at idle. Just an exhaust leak right?
Also, I checked the spring hangers when my truck was up on the lift, they seemed solid!
Plug + wire: $7.58
Total: $1898.50
Motor makes a ticking noise when under load. No tickets when revving in neutral or at idle. Just an exhaust leak right?
Also, I checked the spring hangers when my truck was up on the lift, they seemed solid!
Plug + wire: $7.58
Total: $1898.50
#53
Had a motor oil mishap today.
Started the truck and heard lifter noise. I figured my oil gauge wasn't working because it wasn't showing anything (stock gauge). Gave it a Rev and the oil gauge went up to normal (I know it's a switch), meaning its not broken.
Had to drive to O'Reilly's and change the oil in their parking lot.
Total: $1943.42
Started the truck and heard lifter noise. I figured my oil gauge wasn't working because it wasn't showing anything (stock gauge). Gave it a Rev and the oil gauge went up to normal (I know it's a switch), meaning its not broken.
Had to drive to O'Reilly's and change the oil in their parking lot.
Total: $1943.42
#54
Had a motor oil mishap today.
Started the truck and heard lifter noise. I figured my oil gauge wasn't working because it wasn't showing anything (stock gauge). Gave it a Rev and the oil gauge went up to normal (I know it's a switch), meaning its not broken.
Had to drive to O'Reilly's and change the oil in their parking lot.
Total: $1943.42
Started the truck and heard lifter noise. I figured my oil gauge wasn't working because it wasn't showing anything (stock gauge). Gave it a Rev and the oil gauge went up to normal (I know it's a switch), meaning its not broken.
Had to drive to O'Reilly's and change the oil in their parking lot.
Total: $1943.42
#55
The thing runs GOOD. Does not belong on Roadkill at all.
This 302 is amazing, it has great power, great acceleration and its nice to drive. The only issue I have is that damn exhaust manifold gasket. What are the chances that the bolts break if I decide to go to shorty headers? Are high flow cats something I could look into if I want a louder exhaust note? The muffler shop said there's no reason to put duals on with the factory cats.
The only real issue this thing has is that it needs a serious alignment, and a vibration at highway speeds (U-Joint? Driveshaft?)
P.O also included a set of rims that I like a lot better than the stock ones.
This 302 is amazing, it has great power, great acceleration and its nice to drive. The only issue I have is that damn exhaust manifold gasket. What are the chances that the bolts break if I decide to go to shorty headers? Are high flow cats something I could look into if I want a louder exhaust note? The muffler shop said there's no reason to put duals on with the factory cats.
The only real issue this thing has is that it needs a serious alignment, and a vibration at highway speeds (U-Joint? Driveshaft?)
P.O also included a set of rims that I like a lot better than the stock ones.
#56
Huh? You lost me. No pressure on the gauge and "heard lifter noise" so you revved the engine? Then you "had to change the oil in the O'Reily's parking lot?" Why did you need to change the oil in their parking lot? Did you ever check the fluid level to see how much was in it?
#57
Thing definitely needs an alignment, and bad.
Thing pulls to the right on the highway, and the steering wheel isn't straight. The tires also look like they weren't wearing evenly though I have no idea. I'll go in tomorrow to get an alignment. Could that be the cause of the vibrations and such at highway speeds? I'm pretty sure my ball joints are OK because I don't hear clunking when I hit potholes or go over slight curbs when making a turn.
How much is a reasonable amount to pay for an alignment on these TTB trucks? Do I need a 4 wheel alignment or just a front alignment?
Also, I'm pretty sure I'm getting around 15MPG highway which is pretty great.
Thing pulls to the right on the highway, and the steering wheel isn't straight. The tires also look like they weren't wearing evenly though I have no idea. I'll go in tomorrow to get an alignment. Could that be the cause of the vibrations and such at highway speeds? I'm pretty sure my ball joints are OK because I don't hear clunking when I hit potholes or go over slight curbs when making a turn.
How much is a reasonable amount to pay for an alignment on these TTB trucks? Do I need a 4 wheel alignment or just a front alignment?
Also, I'm pretty sure I'm getting around 15MPG highway which is pretty great.
#58
Take a pic of the truck on level ground. It really looks like it's sagging on the rear. If something is broken it will drive like crap. Double check rear leaf springs, coil springs, radius arm bushings etc. Are your tires old? Maybe they are out of balance or have a broken cord?. Since you ordered new tires just wait until you get them on if you are paying a shop for alignment.
#59
Take a pic of the truck on level ground. It really looks like it's sagging on the rear. If something is broken it will drive like crap. Double check rear leaf springs, coil springs, radius arm bushings etc. Are your tires old? Maybe they are out of balance or have a broken cord?. Since you ordered new tires just wait until you get them on if you are paying a shop for alignment.