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I'm back...with a 1990 Ford F-150 Regular Cab Short Box

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  #31  
Old 02-07-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bbf385
You should never get advice from the source of that info again.
The "maf portion" is the whole program.
Noted! I will not. It's not worth buying the whole $200-500 kit for slightly better gas mileage.

Also, is it cheaper to reupholster and refoam my seat or buy a used example. I found a used one that matches my exterior for $130.
 
  #32  
Old 02-07-2017, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselCamper

A few issues it has...

1. The power steering pump is awful! It always makes the awful sound attributed to Ford power steering, even at idle. Worth throwing the Lucas in there or should I just replace it all together? FIXED.
If the sound comes back, I'd look into a Saginaw pump swap.

Originally Posted by DieselCamper
Well, tell us!

I looked into the 3G alternator upgrade, but I've never done any electrical work, so it looks complicated.
The headlight upgrade is plug n play. You can buy harnesses from LMC, and the 3G upgrade looks fairly easy, I'd look into it more
 
  #33  
Old 02-07-2017, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 1985 Bronco
If the sound comes back, I'd look into a Saginaw pump swap.The headlight upgrade is plug n play. You can buy harnesses from LMC, and the 3G upgrade looks fairly easy, I'd look into it more
If the sound comes back, I'm definitely going to swap over.

The headlight harness is that easy? Might as well do it.

I'll probably do the 3G swap when my alternator goes out. Had the battery and alternator tested today and both are fine.

Also, my seat is way too low to the ground. How can I get higher up?
 
  #34  
Old 02-07-2017, 02:28 PM
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Welp! My tailgate fell off when I tried to get it closed again. Once I'm off work, I will examine further haha!
 
  #35  
Old 02-07-2017, 04:37 PM
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Hi,
In my experience the OEM steering pump is fine!

Mine is quite, if yours is loud put in a new one!

The G3 Alternator swap is easy and you can make your own wiring harness (easy)

I put in a 175 amp "Mega Fuse" on the power out with 2/0 wire!!!

Yea no more burnt out alternators now!

The headlight loom I got from Bronco Graveyard, but that comes after the G3 swap!!!
 
  #36  
Old 02-07-2017, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi,
In my experience the OEM steering pump is fine!

Mine is quite, if yours is loud put in a new one!

The G3 Alternator swap is easy and you can make your own wiring harness (easy)

I put in a 175 amp "Mega Fuse" on the power out with 2/0 wire!!!

Yea no more burnt out alternators now!

The headlight loom I got from Bronco Graveyard, but that comes after the G3 swap!!!
I've never done any sort of wiring at all, and I believe you have to splice the alternator harness, is this correct?
 
  #37  
Old 02-07-2017, 10:52 PM
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Tested the 4x4 in the snow today. Works perfectly!
 
  #38  
Old 02-08-2017, 06:52 AM
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There is just something that's a red flag on how they took care of it if they won't even wash it to sell.
Make sure and use low range whenever you back a trailer or back uphill or you can smoke the clutch. For some reason Mazda thought F150s would need to back up 85 miles an hour.
 
  #39  
Old 02-08-2017, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
There is just something that's a red flag on how they took care of it if they won't even wash it to sell.
Make sure and use low range whenever you back a trailer or back uphill or you can smoke the clutch. For some reason Mazda thought F150s would need to back up 85 miles an hour.
I almost never wash my things I sell. Plus, it's the middle of winter here, it's pretty much a waste of money to wash these things in the middle of winter.
 
  #40  
Old 02-08-2017, 04:22 PM
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Ran into an issue with the 4X4 today... IT HAS OPEN DIFFERENTIALS.

Whoever decided to put non LSD on 4X4 should be taken out back and shot.
 
  #41  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselCamper
Ran into an issue with the 4X4 today... IT HAS OPEN DIFFERENTIALS.

Whoever decided to put non LSD on 4X4 should be taken out back and shot.
Nah, just need better tires and a little weight. I actually like open diff's for cruising ice rink highways, more predictable. If things get deep I'll chain up.
 
  #42  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding
Nah, just need better tires and a little weight. I actually like open diff's for cruising ice rink highways, more predictable. If things get deep I'll chain up.
Sold my accord today, first purchase I use with the money is new tires. Anyone had any experience with Nankang tires?

Also, the wiper motor is out, easy to replace I'm guessing?

Third, is a little bit of gear whine from 1st and second gear OK? It's certainly not loud, but it is noticeable.
 
  #43  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:53 PM
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What does the axle code on the door jam say? You may have a lsd that is worn out. Don't cheap out on tires. You have to remove cowl below windshield to change the wiper motor.
 
  #44  
Old 02-08-2017, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by nnero
What does the axle code on the door jam say? You may have a lsd that is worn out. Don't cheap out on tires. You have to remove cowl below windshield to change the wiper motor.
Axle code 19. 3.55 with an OD.

I'm buying some Maxxis Buckshot II. They come in 31s and 29s, how much will two inch taller tires affect my mileage/speedo?
 
  #45  
Old 02-08-2017, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by nnero
What does the axle code on the door jam say? You may have a lsd that is worn out. Don't cheap out on tires. You have to remove cowl below windshield to change the wiper motor.
Went ahead and ordered 5 Maxxis Buckshot 2 M/Ts in 235/75R/15, 4 for my drive wheels, one for my spare.

Total: $1781.93
 


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