88 F250 w/less than 17,000 original miles
#16
How about the brake booster it's self? I see you mention possible hydro boost path.
When you did the hoses, did you do the single rear hose?
Just spit-balling here.
#17
Sounds like a keeper to me!
My '87 F-250 4x4 SuperCab LB w/ 4V-7.5L & C6 weighs 6200# w/ driver + 18 gal. of fuel. Doesn't matter whether it's empty or pushing 13,000# w/ camper and boat, fuel mileage has always been ~7MPG; never less than 6, and never quite makes it to 8. Bought this truck in '88 w/ 34K miles, ~85K now. Obviously, not a daily driver, but it's never failed to do anything I've demanded of it in almost 30 years. I'm installing a gooseneck hitch mount on it next week and plan to tow a 21,000# GVR, triple axle equipment trailer to celebrate its 30th birthday! Brakes aren't spectacular but I've never been apprehensive about it's stopping ability. Dynamited the brakes at 60mph a few years back w/ camper and boat in tow to try and avoid an idiot deer that never broke stride, jumped a fence, and bounded onto the highway -- scrubbed ~25mph off instantly with no problem before the deer just missed T-boning the truck bed, and slid under the boat trailer!
Once again, I've averaged less than 1500 mi per year, but I've always felt that gasoline is the cheapest operating expense I've got. Insurance, license, taxes, emissions testing, etc. adds up to way more annually! And it's not depreciating like a newer rig.
Like you say, you can by a lot of gas for $20K, even at $3 /gal. -- and you still wouldn't have the solid truck that you've got right now!
Don't know where you reside, but if you should decide to sell it, give me a shout; sounds like a nice rig to me!
Or else, drive it 'til the wheels fall off!!
Once again, I've averaged less than 1500 mi per year, but I've always felt that gasoline is the cheapest operating expense I've got. Insurance, license, taxes, emissions testing, etc. adds up to way more annually! And it's not depreciating like a newer rig.
Like you say, you can by a lot of gas for $20K, even at $3 /gal. -- and you still wouldn't have the solid truck that you've got right now!
Don't know where you reside, but if you should decide to sell it, give me a shout; sounds like a nice rig to me!
Or else, drive it 'til the wheels fall off!!
#18
Yeah a 4x4 ZF5 is getting hard to find. I found one eventually and haven't installed yet.
All stock as 2wd it got about 8mpg.
As a 4x4 with 39.5 swampers on it I get just over 10 mpg.
It's keeping the rpms around 2100-2300 that will give better mileage. I think with the zf I can get as much as 11mpg out of it.
As far as the engine goes I have only cut the airhorns off in the intake tube and replace the factory muffler. So, basically nothing.
#19
How sure are you of that weight? I'd guess closer to 5500 lbs. My '97 CCSB weighs 6600 with me and a fiberglass topper, so maybe 6100 empty. The crew cab adds weight, and there's no way an '88 is as heavy as a '97 (they got stiffer and fatter over the years), but still, I don't think your's only weighs 2/3s of what mine weighs.
As to why the mileage is worse than on an older vehicle, I can't say. But I know that my '97 460 E4OD 4.10 might get double digit mileage when empty annd is in the 8 mpg range when carrying my 8' pop-up slide-in camper, which weights about 1100 lbs and has less frontal area than a non-pop-up.
As to why the mileage is worse than on an older vehicle, I can't say. But I know that my '97 460 E4OD 4.10 might get double digit mileage when empty annd is in the 8 mpg range when carrying my 8' pop-up slide-in camper, which weights about 1100 lbs and has less frontal area than a non-pop-up.
My truck has an extended cab so it won't weigh as much as a 4x4 crew cab, but is still heavy.
Thank you for your input.
#20
I am assuming the truck is clean and pristine, normally i would suggest sell and buy another to suit what your looking for.
In this case maybe swap to a 7.3 or 6.9 idi and 4 speed manual. Immnormally not advocate of engine swaps.
Good motors can be had less than a grand , easiest would be find a donor truck.
Youll never get past 10-12 mpg with the setup you have
Something is amiss with the brakes
In this case maybe swap to a 7.3 or 6.9 idi and 4 speed manual. Immnormally not advocate of engine swaps.
Good motors can be had less than a grand , easiest would be find a donor truck.
Youll never get past 10-12 mpg with the setup you have
Something is amiss with the brakes
#21
I'd install a 3" or 3 1/2" catback exhaust, change all the fluids, give it a good check for dry rotted vacuum hoses and drive it for another 150,000 miles. The catback will help with power, and maybe mileage.
I use absurdly expensive EBC yellow pads, they help braking power and don't fade like reasonably priced pads. Planning to try the bigger bore master cylinder soon, I hear it helps. I gutted my RABS gizmo a few years back, that also helped a bit.
Nothing better than seeing a clean, stock, old truck on the road!
I use absurdly expensive EBC yellow pads, they help braking power and don't fade like reasonably priced pads. Planning to try the bigger bore master cylinder soon, I hear it helps. I gutted my RABS gizmo a few years back, that also helped a bit.
Nothing better than seeing a clean, stock, old truck on the road!
Probably not very many 29 year old trucks running around with the original exhaust and with the exception of rust on the tips, in very good shape.
I really have been leaning hard on the idea of some aggressive pads up front and wish they made some aggressive shoes for the rear.
Thank you for your input.
#22
As far as quality, the parts all cam with the lifetime warranty, but certainly is Hawk or EBC.
You just might have something on the glazed pads though. Rarely drive the truck empty and since there was much break in time before the camper went on, I suppose there is a greater chance of glazing.
Replaced all of the hoses in front and back.
The pedal was spongy with the original brakes at around 15,000 miles and really is any better with all new parts.
Thanks for the input.
#23
My '87 F-250 4x4 SuperCab LB w/ 4V-7.5L & C6 weighs 6200# w/ driver + 18 gal. of fuel. Doesn't matter whether it's empty or pushing 13,000# w/ camper and boat, fuel mileage has always been ~7MPG; never less than 6, and never quite makes it to 8. Bought this truck in '88 w/ 34K miles, ~85K now. Obviously, not a daily driver, but it's never failed to do anything I've demanded of it in almost 30 years. I'm installing a gooseneck hitch mount on it next week and plan to tow a 21,000# GVR, triple axle equipment trailer to celebrate its 30th birthday! Brakes aren't spectacular but I've never been apprehensive about it's stopping ability. Dynamited the brakes at 60mph a few years back w/ camper and boat in tow to try and avoid an idiot deer that never broke stride, jumped a fence, and bounded onto the highway -- scrubbed ~25mph off instantly with no problem before the deer just missed T-boning the truck bed, and slid under the boat trailer!
Once again, I've averaged less than 1500 mi per year, but I've always felt that gasoline is the cheapest operating expense I've got. Insurance, license, taxes, emissions testing, etc. adds up to way more annually! And it's not depreciating like a newer rig.
Like you say, you can by a lot of gas for $20K, even at $3 /gal. -- and you still wouldn't have the solid truck that you've got right now!
Don't know where you reside, but if you should decide to sell it, give me a shout; sounds like a nice rig to me!
Or else, drive it 'til the wheels fall off!!
Once again, I've averaged less than 1500 mi per year, but I've always felt that gasoline is the cheapest operating expense I've got. Insurance, license, taxes, emissions testing, etc. adds up to way more annually! And it's not depreciating like a newer rig.
Like you say, you can by a lot of gas for $20K, even at $3 /gal. -- and you still wouldn't have the solid truck that you've got right now!
Don't know where you reside, but if you should decide to sell it, give me a shout; sounds like a nice rig to me!
Or else, drive it 'til the wheels fall off!!
I retired 4 months ago and plan on traveling this spring and summer.
Even though he didn't drive it much, my Dad loved this truck, so I doubt that I'll be selling it.
Thanks again.
#24
I am assuming the truck is clean and pristine, normally i would suggest sell and buy another to suit what your looking for.
In this case maybe swap to a 7.3 or 6.9 idi and 4 speed manual. Immnormally not advocate of engine swaps.
Good motors can be had less than a grand , easiest would be find a donor truck.
Youll never get past 10-12 mpg with the setup you have
Something is amiss with the brakes
In this case maybe swap to a 7.3 or 6.9 idi and 4 speed manual. Immnormally not advocate of engine swaps.
Good motors can be had less than a grand , easiest would be find a donor truck.
Youll never get past 10-12 mpg with the setup you have
Something is amiss with the brakes
I really hadn't considered swapping engine and transmission and might need to do some checking around.
I wonder if a rear disc brake setup and EBC pads front and back would solve my problems?
Thanks for your help
#25
I have run alot of miles with stock sterling drums with 38's 39's and 44's. I have always been able to lock the rears up. I found the best bang for buck on my 87 was to swap an adjustable proprtioning valve in place of the stock abs thing. I got it from summit and it only took a few drives to get her dialed in just right, truck stops great with 38x12.50 super swamper tsls and heavy re-centered double beadlock hummer wheels . I have stock front dana 60 dual piston calipers with cheap parts store pads, just scuffed the rotors up real good.
Does your truck have dual piston calipers in the front?
Someone correct me if i am wrong but i think some of the trucks with the ttb 44 front came with single piston calipers? Or do they all come with the dual piston? I know the ttb dana 50 calipers and rotors are basically same as dana 60 stuff.
I think some trucks also csme with a load based proportioning valve attached to the rear axle, this can also be a source of trouble. Kind of resembles a class 8 air bag leveling valve mechanism
I only suggested an idi because they are dead reliable cheap and cheap to work on, and you should be able to get 14-16 mpg fairly easily. Finding a donor truck would make it a straightforward swap
Just thinking out loud!
Does your truck have dual piston calipers in the front?
Someone correct me if i am wrong but i think some of the trucks with the ttb 44 front came with single piston calipers? Or do they all come with the dual piston? I know the ttb dana 50 calipers and rotors are basically same as dana 60 stuff.
I think some trucks also csme with a load based proportioning valve attached to the rear axle, this can also be a source of trouble. Kind of resembles a class 8 air bag leveling valve mechanism
I only suggested an idi because they are dead reliable cheap and cheap to work on, and you should be able to get 14-16 mpg fairly easily. Finding a donor truck would make it a straightforward swap
Just thinking out loud!
#26
You will NEVER get any better mileage out of the C6. Way to much torque converter slippage. I"d convert to a 5 spd in a flash. I did that with my very rusty 88 5spd to a rust free 89 C6, I didn't need anything else. Find a donor truck. MY brakes are very adequate on my 89, I pull a 24ft gooseneck at legal wt, around 15k and get 11-12, and 15 empty. Gale Banks complete exhause, no air pump, no cat. Could not be happier. I've a 97 and a 95 F-250 on the farm, all 5 spds, very good brakes and mileage. It's the C6 causing you grief
#27
If you hadn't already done it, I'd suggest EBCs or Hawk, I've used both & they're great.
Love my braided lines ( & Power slots too)
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Jules The Great
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02-18-2015 08:49 PM