...Or, not. It's just a piece of line. You can do most anything you want with regards to return lines on these engines.
I generally just get a couple of tee's, and tee everything together at the front of the engine to make it easy to work on. I tee the return line(s) from the banks(very low flow), with the return from the IP(much higher flow), and the return line from the fuel filter(if not deleted); it all goes into a 5/16" hose which then runs back and into the factory hard return line on the frame rail.

Just make sure you have little restriction on the return of the IP and you'll be fine.

Either this OR fix the check-valve in that orifice.

The problem is that if you delete this return line AND HAVE ISSUES WITH AIR BEING SUCKED FROM THE TANK, the engine won't run well at all. That line will bleed off quite a bit of air; you might delete the line and the truck just won't run afterwards.

Once you fix your fuel pickup issues, /then/ you should be able to delete it without much trouble.

 

As stated I changed the.check valve with a new one from ford. But I'll delete it anyway. My fuel supply is good to the e pump. I'm just trying to figure out the correct way to run the line that's on top of the injector pump. Instead of changing all the steel lines with same steel lines can I use braided line? Such has used for facets or toilet supply lines?

 

Uh... No.
I really suggest you do some research on how the IP works, how the fuel system works in our trucks.

Those hard lines have 1/16" or so /wall thickness/, and carry fuel at pressures up to 2,000 PSI!

They aren't like the thin-wall cheap supply and return lines.

Don't delete it until you fix your problem. Look... that is on the /pressure/ side of the lift pump. If it's working correctly, with the engine/pump running, you WILL NOT SUCK AIR into it. The only places you can be sucking air with the engine running is BEFORE THE LIFT PUMP(e-pump in your case).

 

I did just read about the fuel lines and I'll stay stock. Just concerned about junkyard lines.

​​​​​​​as far as air before my e pump...I've gone thru it. Complete. 100 percent. Fuel pick up issue fixed..old e pump removed. Fuel select valve deleted. I have straight 3/8 supply running to tank to e pump. With blue nylon hose. I believe it's nylon. Its not stock and seems recent.

 

Install a clear fuel filter after the e-pump, then, so you can watch it and verify that there is no air.

I forget... do you have a Facet Duralift? If so, you've already got a clear bowl to check. If you see /any/ air in there, you are getting air into the system. I don't care if you checked it, if it's not full of fuel(and stays full of fuel), you are getting air into the system.

 

Just to clarify, I thought I read in my service manual that there is a ball valve in the fuel filter that will bypass the air out of the system through the filter drain in the fuel filter then when fuel hits the valve, the valve closes, other than excess lift pump pressure bypassing the filter. This is to prevent air from getting to the IP.

So, you say that Ford modified the drain of the Fuel Pump to 'delete' it from going to the #2 injector drain? Any reference to the service bulletin or where we could find this info? So this would then just go straight back to the T at the rear of the injectors drain output going to the tank?

Steel lines are high pressure injector lines. Yes, very thin. They are also very fragile and can break easy and also develop pinholes. I've experienced this with jet engine injector feed lines and aircraft service bulletins. The risk of a junkyard line is you don't know condition. But, if it works and it's cheap, you shouldn't have any future problems.

The high pressure is created by moving a very small amount of hydraulic fluid, diesel, through stiff/rigid lines that won't flex with pressure. Thus even a small air bubble might create enough space for the pressure to never develop high enough to open the injectors in the injector lines.

 

Yes I have facet Dura-Lift with the clear bowl pm bottom. I havnt seen it pull down much like it did before but I'll check it out again

 

Here's what I'm going to do....test drive after I get off work...then hook fuel can to bumper and supply line to fuel pump then test drive. Should I run the return to the fuel can or just supply? And leave the return to the trucks fuel tank? Also if I change my entire fuel supply line can I use gates fuel line? That's what I'm using now for smaller fuel runs.

 

Here is a set of new Hard Injector Fuel Lines if you don`t want to use used lines.

https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/...Z4IaAta28P8HAQ


You will also need to securely clamp the lines to keep them from vibrating and cracking. Very important.


http://thedieselstore.com/injector-l...rd-diesel.html


Charlie

 

Thank you very much for the links :-) I'll get those ordered soon. I'm wondering if I have a Crack or something on one of my lines currently

 

True enough, but the factory part would be easier and cheaper than building it when gotten at a junkyard, if nothing else, we know the way IH routed it works.

For the second part, i say its non issue anyway. The IP is able to pass a fair amount of air before problems are caused. Due to the unique plumbing of my return line, i have no way to really purge the air from the supply after changing the filters, not much different than having air intrusion, crack a couple injector lines, crank for 15 sec, tighten, and fire.

Injector lines typically dont wear out, and JY lines would be 1000x better than what you showed in the pic. As long as the vibration clamps are in place and the cap doesnt get crossthreaded, ive never heard of issues with lines on an IDI other than rusting in the salt states. New lines are pretty pricey. If you had a cracked line, you would know it.

 

Again, I'm speaking for experience here. I have a 1988 f-250 which is definitely pulling in a thin stream of air with the fuel, not just a 'bit' that needs to be purged. I blocked off the filter return(thinking it would help), like I have on my other trucks... and it would /not/ stay running. Hooked it back up, and the truck fired right up.
It's not something that, with a non-leaky fuel system, should be a problem - my other 88 I've run one tank completely dry, flipped the switch and purged all the air just by downshifting(when running out of fuel on the road), but on this one truck, it definitely is a problem.
And I swapped in a known-good IP as well; no change. Pretty sure I've got to deal with the fuel pickup and lines, but I'm not doing that until spring.

 

I appreciate all the info. I'll get it back to stock condition with fuel lines.

 

Try some Tygon fuel line. It's made for diesel fuel, won't crack or dry out. Plus it's see-through! I runTygon from the fuel pump to a check valve then to the fuel filter.... So you can see if air is going into your fuel filter which would mean If there is no air bubbles going into your filter you are all good to that point.

 

This was years ago my man. But thanks for the reply. I found the issue..just to many holes in the fuel line from tank to injector pump..ive since sold the truck and miss her dearly.