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I like the the master cylinder from CPP. If you have trouble with the hydro boost you could also add an electric vacuum pump. For years now gasoline engine powered cars and trucks that use VVT, variable valve timing, use an electric vacuum pump because of low manifold vacuum. The one that is used on Jeep Wranglers is compact, rugged and readily available (Amazon.com) but there are many others.
I have to run a hydraulic power steering pump for the power rack and pinion unit for the Dakota IFS. I am also running a Vintage Air Front Runner serpentine belt accessory drive system so I can have air conditioning in my truck. I live in Arizona where an air conditioned truck is ESSENTIAL. This is also the shortest accessory drive system I could find to insure I could run a fan for the radiator. Also, the Front Runner system doesn't have provision for an electric vacuum pump.
I have to run a hydraulic power steering pump for the power rack and pinion unit for the Dakota IFS. I am also running a Vintage Air Front Runner serpentine belt accessory drive system so I can have air conditioning in my truck. I live in Arizona where an air conditioned truck is ESSENTIAL. This is also the shortest accessory drive system I could find to insure I could run a fan for the radiator. Also, the Front Runner system doesn't have provision for an electric vacuum pump.
Thanks for the comment.
Philip
That is the beauty of the remote electric vacuum pump . . . it doesn't require a belt drive. It really has nothing to do with your A/C system.
Don't mind my ignorance. I've been busy and my mind wasn't quite engaged. Yes, I do know that an electric vacuum pump does NOT require a belt drive. I just read your post and responded too fast
Thanks for the idea. If I can't use it, then someone else may find a need.
Past time to add to my build thread. To continue with the catch up on past work.
Front Disk Brakes
I chose to use a 1986-96 Dodge Dakota IFS to replace the stock I-beam parallel leaf suspension on my 48 F-1. I bought a complete front clip from a 1989 Dakota for all of the stock parts that I would need. The stock Dakota comes with disk brakes which are a little on the smaller size with the rotor being 10.70 in. diameter x 0.87 in. thick with a 5 x 4.50 in. bolt circle. I wanted/needed bigger brakes. Auto manufacturers use a lot of common parts in their vehicles which helped me use stock Dodge parts to install bigger brakes. The 1989 Dodge D150 half ton truck uses the same upper spindle as the 1989 Dakota so the upper ball joint and the wheel bearings were the same for both trucks. Therefore, I could use the D150 brake rotor which is 11.75 in. dia. x 1.25 in. thick. Considerably bigger. The rotor has a 5 x 5.5 in. bolt circle which is what I wanted to use with the Ford 9 in. rear housing with the 31- spline axles.
This is the Dakota Rotor and spindle:
This is a diagram of the stock Dakota rotor.
This is the diagram of the D150 rotor.
As you can see it is considerably larger and better suited for the braking requirements.
For brake calipers I chose the Wilwood D-52 dual piston calipers with the 2 in. diameter pistons. This one:
This caliper is a forged aluminum, floating, dual piston caliper which is a direct replacement for the GM single piston calipers used from 1968-96 on GM cars and trucks. This Wilwood caliper will take a rotor up to 1.28 in. thick.
I had to design a bracket to mount this caliper to the Dakota spindle. Wilwood has scale drawings of the calipers. This one:
Using the dimensions on the scale drawing, I copied the scale drawing on my scanner copy function until it was full size. With the measured dimensions from my spindle and the brake rotor, I was able to place the caliper in the correct relationship to the caliper and rotor on the scaled-up caliper copy. The drawing showed I could use a 3/8 in. thick plate for the bracket. I then drew up a bracket to mount the caliper to the spindle. I had searched the internet for pictures of how other people had mounted this Wilwood caliper to spindles which gave me ideas of how I could mount the caliper to the spindle. I have AutoCAD software on my computer, so I was able to draw up the bracket as a .dwg and .dxf files. I emailed the AutoCAD .dxf file to Industrial Chassis in Phoenix who cut out two of them for me with their computer-controlled plasma cutter out of 3/8 in. hot rolled plate.
Once I had the bracket blanks I had to drill and tap the two holes for the caliper mounting pins and drill the two holes to bolt the bracket to the spindle. Since the holes were on the CAD file the plasma cutter placed the holes for me on the blanks. I drilled the caliper holes to the required 7/16-20 thread for the mounting pins and drilled the spindle mounting holes for clearance of a 1/2-20 bolt. The bracket mounts to the spindle with Grade 8, 1/2-20 fine thread bolts 1-1/4 in. long with flat washers.
This is a photo of the finished bracket.
This is a photo of the assembled spindle, rotor, bracket and caliper.
I have had the spindles powder coated along with the other suspension parts. I will also powder coat the caliper brackets.
That is how I added larger disk brakes to the stock Dakota IFS.
Philip
petemcl,
With the Dakota IFS there aren't what some would call "steering stops". The Dakota uses a rack and pinion steering gear which has its own limits. There are suspension "bump stops" installed on the frame to contact the rubber bumpers on the lower control arms to prevent the suspension from bottoming out onto the frame.
02-13-2017, 11:12 AM
