So, there are two types of lift pumps. One has a lever which juts straight out, and the other looks kind of like an inverted U.

Either work just fine, but with the straight-out type, you have to make sure that the lever goes /under/ the cam gear. You do this by pushing the pump into the hole with the lever angle downwards, then once you have it all the way end, take the pump and push it square and into position to be bolted in. It's actually really easy to do, as long as you put it in at a downwards angle.
You may well feel some resistance as you try to get it square, as the lever is depressed(the pump is "actuated" by the cam), depending on the position of the cam.

Also, I want to point out that /if/ the system is primed and there are no leaks, the engine will actually start and run with the lift pump doing nothing. I once forgot to install the lift pump when doing some work on it, so it was dangling by the side of the motor with the lines connected. Fired the motor up, then realized my mistake...

It's not good to do this because of extra wear on the little positive-displacement "transfer pump" inside the IP, but it /can/ do it if there is no air in the lines.

 

​​​​​​​if I don't get the straight out type and I get the u type because of its availability. She just pops in your still have to be under the cam lobe?

 

I have been through this all myself, it doesn't cost a lot of money but you need to make sure the basics are right. The motors are idiot proof and I am proof of that. I could easily replace Curly on the 3 stooges.


Listen 2 both of these guy's they will set you strait, I have burned up starters and drained batteries until I finally read up and learned. You have to do the maintenance required or get a old Carb model truck.....

 

I understand maintenance. This truck isn't in top shape obviously I'm going thru little by little fixing it. But I'm tired of trying to go to the store and getting stuck and burning up starter and dead batteries trying to prime the truck. I just think a e pump would be easier but so much argument of which to get. I don't mind replacing the stock lift pump just unsure about the process and if I want to stay mechanical.

 

It's extremely frustrating because she doesnt do it all the time!!! Hot..and cold and now driving which is new.

 

Cheap fix get a primer bulb, I bought a Dura Lift and with a good electric pump when you turn it on it will show you where the problem is by forcing fuel out the leak. I also bought 2 new 31 class batteries with a Power Master starter and I ran it out of fuel the other day and the new set up spins it over like a dental grinder and it lite right back up batter than EVER!.


I am done using junk parts in my diesels, I learned my lesson with too many Triple A calls......

 

​​​​​​​after looking it up a little more (I'm at work currently ) I'm going to go with the dura lift pump. But do I need to mess with the return line at all? I already replaced the check valve but with a e pump do I need to mess with the return line?

 

There are a few members, myself included who went to the Facet Duralift pump. It's made a world of difference, a bit pricey but worth it. I deleted and blocked off the mechanical pump, and plumbed the Duralift in its place; mounted on the passenger side inner fender. It's wired into a relay off the FSS, when the glow plugs are heating up; the lift pump is priming the system. Works great.

 

​​​​​​yes. Did you do anything to the return fuel line? Or leave it how it is? Of course I'll delete and block off the mechanical pump. Also did you need a fuel pressure regulator? I saw a quick video of the dura pump had to be limited down because it produces 11psi I believe it was?

 

I ditched the return line. The Duralift is self regulating, the one I have is set at 4-7 psi.

 

​​​​​​​is it necessary to ditch the return line?

 

I went to the dura pump website and they offer a few models. I see one that has max flow of 7psi and min 4psi and 33gph. This is ok? I'm not sure how I feel about self regulating haha

 

If it's the typical Facet Duralift pump, it is... marginal in my mind.
My dad has one on his turbocharged 88. We had a fuel pressure gauge on it for a while... at idle, perhaps 7 PSI. Floor it, and it drops to 0. So it's really not supplying enough, not really.

 

​​​​​​​did the truck run ok tho? They offer several different models but others the min psi is 9 or 11 I believe. The model I was going to get was the 4 to 7psi pump

 

Runs OK. I feel that it is a bit 'soft' at the upper end, but my dad is one of those who rarely takes the engine above 2200RPM anyway, so he doesn't really care.

At the low end, sure, it does just fine. But so do my trucks which have mechanical fuel pumps.