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It wouldn't hurt, but the most benefit will come from truly degreasing and decontaminating the surface--that is what will cause most of the adhesion issues. (And since they are old engine parts, doing a sufficient job of decontaminating will be very difficult)
Abe, I used Bill Hirsch's engine paint. Painted it up at Ober's shop. The heads would have been clean from him hot tanking them. So I believe the base coat you have there is good. I think a scuff would be good. Dennis
Truck Y Blocks had a yellow lighter than my engine that looks similar to the heads. I can't seem to find Ford engine yellow anywhere. The yellow on my engine is growing on me since I painted it and since I'm not, by any means, going back original I guess my yellow engine will just have to do.
If you don't strip off the old paint there is a product sold under different names but one of them is Sand-Free. It is a liquid you spray or wipe on and it etches the exiting paint so the new paint has a way to grip the base (old) paint. I use it in door jambs and other hard to reach areas with great results.
Thanks guys for all the tips. I was hoping to paint them today. The paint can says you should paint when it is between 60° and 90° but it only got up to 50 today and it was damp. So I'll have to paint them in my buddies heated shop sometime in the near future.
Aervoe makes the best engine enamel, once you use it you will never use anything else. This is a professional product used by many in the engine building industry and as such it is not available at your DIYer outlets. Sticks to any metal without a lot of prep and is impervious to most chemicals and heat. I buy it by the case.