Ok I got everything back together on my 1990 F250 5.8 and had timing off but, got that sorted when I got it started it wants to lope at idle and sometimes die and the exhaust reeks of bad gas it runs and was able to keep it at 1800 to 2000 RPM for 15 to 20 minutes. But need to figure out how to get the bad gas out of there not sure if the gauge works will anything other than new gas help.
Can you siphon a 90 model ? Or will I have to drop the tank.

 

One other thing when I switch tanks it will die but runs better and revs up before it dies guess the old gas is running it rich ?

 

How old is the gas? If you can't siphon it through the gas cap, just remove that part and siphon right through the fill hose.
An engine will usually rev up a bit as it starts to run lean, before it dies.

 

I know I just got done a month or so ago pulling a tank on a 1990 e350 RV and it had a ball in it to prevent siphoning. have not tried my truck yet. The gas is a little over a year old.

 

A year old?! Oh my, that sucks. The ethanol in the gas now absorbs moisture so that could definitely be a problem. Surprised it even kinda ran.

 

It does seem like when you switch tanks it dies either because that one's empty or the valve might not be opening inside the tank. The worst treatment for the dual tanks is not using them for a while.

 

You can use seafoam, dump a can in that will work, dump in a can and top it off with new gas

 

Yeah Thanks guys, honestly plan today is remove bed since I have the shop and tools and drain and add fresh and check other tank.
One other question maybe weird but "Nothing asked nothing gained" the front tank on my truck is a 19 with a big dent in the bottom hence why I figured it does not work I have a very nice and clean 16 gal tank will it fit where the 19 gal was. This is a farm truck/just running around town.

 

Ok just wanted to update this thread it was bad gas sort of. Another adventure for sure pulled the bed and the side tank had the bad gas the rear tank was almost empty so pulled both fuel pumps and found the socks falling apart. Also the middle tank float was sunk this is a brass float.
So I put gas in the rear tank drained the side tank, and then the adventure begins.LOL

The brass float that is on the arm is no where to be found well "they" being all the parts chain stores do not sell the float separately so I find it on Ebay and it is quite common but not around town. So again call the dealer well they have it 30 bucks.
Oh well it's only money LOL Don,t even get me started on prevailing torque nuts for the flex plate to torque converter LOL

The float can be had from the parts stores but you have to buy the sending unit which has the arm and switch but hey that's only 270 dollars. And that is not the pump that's separate.

I have had better luck if you want to call it that getting parts from the dealer it might be $$$$$ but they always have the parts.

As far as the engine running well she runs as well as could be with vacuum lines missing and vacuum running straight from manifold to egr which figured later it needs to be switched. MAP was disconnected so have to hook that back up along with a few other lines.

 

This may save a little, plus it has the pump.





I know some people are really particular about the brand of parts they use, and that's ok, too. I have always gotten very good results with the parts from RockAuto. I did have a problem with a balljoint once, but I let them know and they sent a replacement for no extra cost, expedited. No hassle. Commercial over.