ECT spikes while towing
#1
ECT spikes while towing
i new to the forum and iv searched all over for the answer, hoping i can be pointed in the right direction. i have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. i had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so i decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now i do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT. While i was changing water pump i ordered mishimoto low temp therostat figured it would help with towing temps even though they wernt that bad to begin with my deltas aways around 10-12* figured it could only help.. Now im seeing signs of puking out degas bottle i replaced cap seems to help a little the truck doesnt puke unloaded unless i really get down on it. i noticed the other day while towing i was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again... What is going on. iv talked to a could mechanics and they arent confienced its the HG..
#2
A few questions for you, and welcome to FTE.
Is your EGR cooler deleted?
Is your fan kicking in normally?
Are the mechanics you talked to experts with a 6.0? If not, then take what they say with a grain of salt, that said I would not assume it's the HG's just yet.
Sounds possible to me like these problems started after you switched to the low temp tstat?
Those are some pretty wild temp swings you are seeing there according to your post.
Is your EGR cooler deleted?
Is your fan kicking in normally?
Are the mechanics you talked to experts with a 6.0? If not, then take what they say with a grain of salt, that said I would not assume it's the HG's just yet.
Sounds possible to me like these problems started after you switched to the low temp tstat?
Those are some pretty wild temp swings you are seeing there according to your post.
#3
A few questions for you, and welcome to FTE.
Is your EGR cooler deleted?
Is your fan kicking in normally?
Are the mechanics you talked to experts with a 6.0? If not, then take what they say with a grain of salt, that said I would not assume it's the HG's just yet.
Sounds possible to me like these problems started after you switched to the low temp tstat?
Those are some pretty wild temp swings you are seeing there according to your post.
Is your EGR cooler deleted?
Is your fan kicking in normally?
Are the mechanics you talked to experts with a 6.0? If not, then take what they say with a grain of salt, that said I would not assume it's the HG's just yet.
Sounds possible to me like these problems started after you switched to the low temp tstat?
Those are some pretty wild temp swings you are seeing there according to your post.
#4
#6
Mishi also makes a 200* tstat.
The 6.0 is happiest running a little warmer, but if you are in a warm climate and tow a lot then I can see why you might not want one.
Living here in northwest Iowa, we get really hot and humid summers, and have never had any issues with the 200* Mishi.
Keep the coolant topped off if you are, as you mention, low. No use flirting with disaster.
#7
i live in SC so best of both worlds its either to hot for us or either to cold lol.. All the mechianic iv spoke with have question me on why i installed the low temp thermostat, and that is what im leaning towards too never really had a problem with temps guess if aint broke dont fix it..I mainly came to this site cause iv watched to many youtube videos and iv convinced my self its blown HG.. Thanks for the quick replys and welcomes..i will be changing it out first of week when i get off
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#8
1) Go back to stock thermostat
2) remove the tunes
3) in the tech folder is a procedure for doing a coolant system flush. Part of that procedure references an access port on the oil valve body that can be used to back flush the oil cooler. Use a WHITE pipe cleaner and stick it down inside that access port and move it around - IF the pipe cleaner comes out with orange goo/slime on it then you have a situation called "silicant drop out", research it. One solution is Restore.
2) remove the tunes
3) in the tech folder is a procedure for doing a coolant system flush. Part of that procedure references an access port on the oil valve body that can be used to back flush the oil cooler. Use a WHITE pipe cleaner and stick it down inside that access port and move it around - IF the pipe cleaner comes out with orange goo/slime on it then you have a situation called "silicant drop out", research it. One solution is Restore.
#9
ok from what im understanding and correct me if im wrong but i need to get a kit rigged up for a oil cooler backflush using the access point right under turbo at the valve body. go ahead and flush the block with both block plugs and radiator open and thermostat out. imma use just well water to flush block a couple of times to really flush it. Then i think it would be best to then backflush the oil cooler a couple times with just water. Then this is were im confused if i use restore do i need to use restore+(havent heard good thing) or use VC-9 instead of restore+? while back flushing the oil cooler do the whole run engine and heat up for 2 hours then do the same thing with the whole coolant system for a good thur flush after the oil cooler. then distilled water flushes for about a good 5 flushes then fill with Cat-1 ELC coolant to thermostat reinstall new OEM thermostat and insure i have about 3.5gal of coolant then top off with distilled water...
#11
#12
ok from what im understanding and correct me if im wrong but i need to get a kit rigged up for a oil cooler backflush using the access point right under turbo at the valve body. go ahead and flush the block with both block plugs and radiator open and thermostat out. imma use just well water to flush block a couple of times to really flush it. Then i think it would be best to then backflush the oil cooler a couple times with just water. Then this is were im confused if i use restore do i need to use restore+(havent heard good thing) or use VC-9 instead of restore+? while back flushing the oil cooler do the whole run engine and heat up for 2 hours then do the same thing with the whole coolant system for a good thur flush after the oil cooler. then distilled water flushes for about a good 5 flushes then fill with Cat-1 ELC coolant to thermostat reinstall new OEM thermostat and insure i have about 3.5gal of coolant then top off with distilled water...
#13
Okay i have everything ordered to do the job just have to run by somewhere tonight when i get off to pick up 20gal of distilled water. Have a DieselCare coolant filter kit order was about $65 free shipping and looks to be the same as the sinister diesel kit comes with a filter too, order restore and restore+ from wolfetruckparts.com seems to be most reasonble price. Emailed mishimoto about thermostat they say it sound like faulty part and will be covered under warranty but still going with OEM Tstat. Ran by local TractorSupply and grabbed Rotella ELC for $13 a gallon. Going to start next friday, crossing my fingers this fixes the problem.. Thanks again for all the great advise..