1972 F100 Electric Choke help
#2
The "S" or stator terminal of the alternator... it generates a signal only when the engine is running. Alternatively, any source that is hot with the ignition on.
Avoid using an accessory hot because the choke will get hot when, for example, just listening to the radio (ignition switch one click counterclockwise).
Avoid using an accessory hot because the choke will get hot when, for example, just listening to the radio (ignition switch one click counterclockwise).
#3
The "S" or stator terminal of the alternator... it generates a signal only when the engine is running. Alternatively, any source that is hot with the ignition on.
Avoid using an accessory hot because the choke will get hot when, for example, just listening to the radio (ignition switch one click counterclockwise).
Avoid using an accessory hot because the choke will get hot when, for example, just listening to the radio (ignition switch one click counterclockwise).
#4
With any electric choke, just make sure it requires the 'original' 7v from the Stator terminal. Some of the Aftermarket replacements are intended for 12v (13.6v) charging volts. If you wire it to the wrong place, it will heat up too fast, or too slow.
Also check to see if the hot heater hose is still intended to be resting against the black choke housing. This compensates for hot-start conditions.
Also, check to see if there is a good sealing ring under the choke housing, a cap on the original hot air tube threads, ... and if there is sufficient brew in the fridge, for the after-party.
car pet dime !
Also check to see if the hot heater hose is still intended to be resting against the black choke housing. This compensates for hot-start conditions.
Also, check to see if there is a good sealing ring under the choke housing, a cap on the original hot air tube threads, ... and if there is sufficient brew in the fridge, for the after-party.
car pet dime !
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