So I decided to adjust my hitch 2.5" up. Simple enough... just 4 bolts.

Step 1: Remove head assembly. (I estimate this removes about 50# of the 150# hitch.)

Step 2: Lay the hitch on its side and break the 170 foot pounds of torque. Then loosen.

Step 3: Reposition arch sections to lowest hole, hand-tighten, then torque to 170#.

Step 5: Simply drop the hitch into the pucks.

Except. It. Doesn't. Fit. Again.

Seriously? Are they kidding me?

Here we go again... taking all the Tee Pins out, loosening the anchor bushings, repositioning the hitch into the pucks with loose Jam Nuts, then tightening the jam nuts with the anchor bushings in the pucks, then lifting the hitch again, installing the tee pins and lynch pins...

Then, lifting the hitch back into the pucks...aaaaaaand it doesn't fit...again.

About that time, it was pitch black... I'd gone through about 3 cycles of the bed lights... my wife is texting me that dinner is going to be ruined if I don't come eat...

So... I put all that crap in the garage and will try again tomorrow.

I went through this once on the original height setting... now I'm going through it again.

It's interesting that the main reason I choose Reese over Andersen is I kind of suspected I'd have to adjust the hitch with as high is my bed is...and if the andersen didn't fit I don't know what I'd be doing now.

But this is back breaking work... I've now hauled that 100# base in and out of the truck about 50 times. (To save time I left out all the times I tried to adjust just one corner and that didn't work, etc.)

Sheesh.

 

What part doesn't fit? My B&W 3300 Companion is simple to adjust. 4 bolts and nuts. Not familiar with the reese. Hope you get it adjusted tomorrow.

 

The hitch rocks in the pucks and only any three of them will secure.

After carefully re-reading the instructions, they want me to loosen the 4 main bolts, sit the hitch in the pucks but without the tee's, and then tighten the arches in that position. That's going to mean applying 170# of torque through the top -- with an extension because the wrench/socket won't reach the bolt from the top.

I'm going to call them this morning and ask because this just doesn't make sense... even if the socket doesn't come off the bolt, the hitch will tip over with that much torque unless I get someone to stand on it -- maybe even then.

 

Ok, I just called their support number and two thumbs up for that. I got right on with two towing techs and they were calm, patient, and answered all my questions related to this and other things.

On this issue:

The manual doesn't say it, but here is the procedure:

1. Loosen center bolts
2. Place hitch in pucks
3. slowly begin tightening the bolts like lug nuts (i.e. don't tighten just one, alternate criss-cross as the bolts draw tight.
4. When you've got them as tight as you can get them, carefully remove the hitch and sit on the ground.
5. Then draw them tighter in the same lug nut fashion.
6. You're done when a 4 are torqued.

Sounds like a heck of an ordeal, but I'm going to try to do it today if it doesn't rain.

 

sometimes a "JOB" requires you to be a monkey in a box...

in my world.. anything that needs alignment.. uses the lug nut tightening arrangement.

 

Man, if I had to go through that much work, I would get a different hitch.

My two cents,

STeve

 

The Andersen hitch we bought a few months ago was my first experience with a 5th wheel hitch. We installed the hitch, set the height, hooked up the trailer and were on our way all in about an hours time. This all took place in the parking lot of a truck stop off the interstate 1000 miles from home.

Andersen hitch gets my vote. I know some people don't trust them or don't like them, but just because we have been doing something one way for so long, does not mean it is still the best way.

In order to adjust the height of the Andersen hitch, it is one pin, set the ball height and put the pin back in.

 

Yep, I sure am learning a lot of painful lessons. Top two are:

1. Next truck will be an F450.
2. Next hitch will be Andersen.

However, in fairness to Reese, I was going about it all wrong. Their directions were kind of cryptic (or I'm an idiot...or both), but they do say to adjust the tee's into the pucks you need to loosen the center bolts.

So here is what I did.

1. Loosened the 4 center bolts
2. Hitch slid right in.
3. I locked the tee's and found one had play.
4. Lifted the hitch out, adjusted the tee.
5. It still had a little play. Repeated 3/4... rock solid.
6. With the tees remaining locked, snugged up bolts, lug nut style.
7. With the hitch in the pucks, and the tees locked, began applying torque, lug nut style.
8. Got all 4 torqued.
9. BAM! Removed and replaced hitch... PERFECT fit! Better than before I raised it.

So, all my whining on here about how hard it is was mostly my fault... while Andersen is still much easier, the Reese is not nearly as hard as I was making it on myself. Now my hitch is 2.5" higher, which I hope will fix my gap between rails and overhang problem.

P.S. For anyone interested, this height puts the release handle above the bed rails. At first I thought that would prevent a tonneau cover, but it turns out head assembly tilts enough that it should be fine... or worst case I could remove the two bolts that hold the handle on when I want to add a tonneau cover. However, and it turns out, that the head assembly cover that is shown in the pic does a pretty good job of holding the handle below the bed rails.

 

Hey I like your side box in the bed Robert. I see the Ford emblem do you have a part number? Thanks Gary

 

Thanks! Yeah, the pic is very confusing as are the part numbers. But despite the pic showing the left side (which I did not want due to the 7-way)... I ordered this exact same part number and I got the right side box.

BTW, I highly recommend the box. It holds a ton of stuff... all my tiedowns, cargo nets, towing strap, extra ball for my weigh-safe hitch... and has a little shelf on top where I store my puck covers and a few small tools. When the tailgate is locked it's impossible to remove the toolbox without breaking it (not to say it can't be broken)... but casual crooks will be deterred. It's water tight and doesn't leak...easy to install... Nothing I don't like.

 

I'm glad to hear you figured out your problem. The pucks can be difficult to adjust if you don't use the method they suggested. The procedure is not addressed well in the instructions. I arrived at the method they suggested with my last truck after first trying it outside the bed and having a "huh" moment. My 18k fit the new truck without wobble and is rock solid. I never remove the hitch from the truck to adjust the height or to retorque the pin rocker 5/8 bolts. Just leave it in and work with it in the mounts. It only takes 5 minutes to check the torque and the manual recommends doing it every 1000 miles. I'm still very happy with mine after three years.

 

> For anyone interested, this height puts the release handle above the bed rails.

[Old thread, I know]

I had the same problem with my Reese Elite. You can just bend the handle forward (i.e., rotate it around the longitudinal axis) about 20 degrees and it will work fine without interfering with your cover.

 

Wow! What a PITA for something that Ford usually sells. I sure do like my simple B&W.

 

X2 on the B&W. Solid hitch.

 

In all fairness these are good hitches, and once they are set up they will provide years of reliable service with very little maintenance. The hitch breaks down into two easy to handle pieces and is very quick to install and take out of the truck. Hook ups are easy and the single hook is "go,or no go" when positioned. It tows well and is very quiet while towing. The Ford version is covered under the vehicle warranty, and can be negotiated to be sold at cost during the truck purchase process. The dealers do not repair hitches and will replace any hitch that has a problem with a new one during the warranty period.

BTW: the handle inverts and clears covers at the highest mount settings.