'93 F-250 4x4 non-turbo. What should I also replace "while I'm there." Also, is there a difference between a gas an a diesel tank?

 

Did your fuel gauge function properly?

 

Seems to. It leaks until I get to 1/2 tank then, of course at 1/4 it runs out. So, out of 18/19, I gut to use about 4. And the other set up is giving me running trouble, so I thought I'd better fix the and then diagnose the front tank.

 

I've also been curious about the difference between gas and diesel fuel tanks. Other people (possibly in the sticky threads) have said that the pickup lines in the tank rot and fall apart, thus the running out at 1/4 tank.
something that I want to eventually do is get a 38gal rear tank:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/mobile/Fuel-Tank-Rear-38-Gallon/products/2048/

 

Honestly, I'm thinking yank the bed. Not too hard, and then you have top access to both tanks, lines, selector valve etc. You can also fix any other issues you can while there(things like bushings on the leaf spring comes to mind) as well as giving things a coat of paint if you can.

 

The pickup line itself usually doesn't rot out. You're running out at 1/4 tank because the pickup strainer, aka "showerhead" has broken or fallen off. Replacement is available on Amazon, etc. for $30-ish. The line that it attaches to generally lasts. The pickup/sender assembly usually holds up, too, but you can pretty-much count on destroying the lock ring upon attempting to remove it. The new fuel tank SHOULD come with a new lock ring, but make sure it's there before you begin ops.

What sort of trouble are you having with the front tank?

 

It's running rough on the front tank. Still have to fully diagnose.

 

gasser tanks and sending units work just fine after you delete the in tank fuel pump and extend the pick up.
I have a 33 gal tank out of a 89 F350 gasser in my 87

 

This may or may not answer all your questions, just my experience with replacing fuel tanks. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15464451 . When it comes to the fuel systems Ford made a lot of little changes from year to year and model to model which makes getting the exact replacement parts challenging. If you know what you are doing a lot of parts can be modified or adapted to work.



While you could certainly change tanks without removing the bed, in my opinion it is far easier to work on things with the bed off. The bed is not hard to remove.

 

shorerider, excellent article on tank replacement. great detailed photos and welding. One thing I noticed in yours was your handmade pickup looked like the screen would sit flush with the bottom and was not raised 1/8" to 1/4" from bottom of tank like the OEM design for passage of fuel to the screen. Next, I didn't see a bypass valve on the pickup module. I thought this may be important to point out for other readers to consider when following your method.

regarding the fuel pickup I noticed that the original pickup has a screen that is elevated about 1/8" and has a bypass valve that opens up when the screen becomes clogged. The bypass valve is higher than the pickup screen so could this be an indication that the screen is clogged when the tank seems to run out at 1/4 tank?

There's not a lot mentioned about the pickup in repair manuals and in the parts stores, but I did find replacements online and I need to check my front tank for this problem. New to me used van, rear tank worked, but when I switched to the front tank, it died and the gauge is at 1/4.

 

I belive the v8 gas trucks had the exact same tank, some sending units can be swapped.

86-older fuel gauges reads backwards compared to a 87-newer.
So in my 85 the rear tank has a 86 460 rear sending unit as the outlet and return are the same size as the diesel, now if you have 87+ truck you want a 87 460 sending unit as they were still carbureted. No pump to delete or anything. The only thing different is the fuel gauge plug of which you can either buy a new pigtail or salvage one.

​​​​​​​just thought I'd add this for anyone who is having trouble finding a sending unit. 460 units go for +-$60 on rockauto

 

The screen does sit up off the bottom of the tank slightly, it took a bunch of measuring and bit of trial and error. Looking at the original with the little feet I would imagine that the primary purpose was to keep the suction head from vacuuming itself to the bottom of the tank which is not likely to happen with the metal unit.


Interestingly enough the "correct" diesel unit in the rear wouldn't fit in the tank, I had to tweak the pick up tube since it was sitting on the bottom before the sender would lock into place.