Nice. Crusty but nice, you guys are lucky you get snow, we didnt get squat this winter just last week we were in the lower 70's, hott as sin. The only upside is we dont have to deal with rust, lots of junk yard with trucks like ours with zero rust on them.

 

You can have the snow!! Everyone who sees the truck about falls on there butt ..a 90s ford that still has a tailgate!!! Lol. Luckily she's solid underneath , just the lower sheet metal.. for the rust belt area the truck is in oddly good shape. Figure I got it cheap enough I can fix it up a bit.

 

That sensor detects the oil pressure in the rail which helps the computer adjust the high pressure oil pump. Which in turn is fed to your injectors where it is used to compress and fire diesel into by our cylinders. It's expensive. Get it from Ford. Once that is in try revving it. But it sounds like you need to send your injectors for a refresh.

 

orings are not hard once you get the valve covers off, one connector and remove spout, remove bottom bolt and pry out of hole

 

Hey again folks. Been kind of busy but did manage to tinker with the truck a bit.. I'm really just trying to assess the situation and seen if it's worth "getting into".. I'd really like to have the truck for hauling wood, towing my boats etc.. anyways before I go spending bucks on parts I just want to be sure it's nothing major.

the truck starts, idles, beautifully , no strange noises. White smoke when cold - dissipates when warm. .. in park it will rev to 2100 or so quickly then fall on its face .. starts making a "missing" sound and blowing white smoke. I can work it past this to higher end of the tach but it doesn't like it and it takes awhile. .. I pulled the fuel filter and it is very clean, replaced anyways, the fuel in the
bowl is clean, I pumped it out into a mason jar and let it sit to look for separation and there was none. -- I primed the new filter with a can of sea foam- figured it couldn't hurt.
... I then tore the intake off and checked the turbo wheel, it is in good shape and spins free with no rough spots.
The butterfly valve on the exhaust side of the turbo was stuck so I unclamped the down pipe and worked the valve loose and wired it open for testing purposes.
... none of this made any difference
​​​​​​ After more research i did the oil fill cap upside down trick to check for blow by. There is what appears to be steam? Slowly rising out, however when I place the cap on the hole it does not move at all.
...scratching my head I checked over, I stuck a clean rag in the coolant jug and there is oil in it. The level is good.
I rechecked the oil after sitting and while running. It is clean, level, no milky color, no diesel smell, just clean oil . ,,,,I also noticed there is an exhaust leak of sorts behind the turbo , I can see smoke blowing down almost into the valley from behind the turbo, there is Also a greasy mess around where the linkage comes out for the exhaust valve,,. To me used to working on gas engines, it feels like it's flooding out , starving for air, but this is my gas engine brain ... I am just afraid to start throwing parts at it .. I am used to knowing exactly what I need and why... like I said diesel is new territory for me .. I hate guessing... what do you guys think I should do?

 

steam??
Engine is running
Exhaust leak blowing down from behind

 

Exhaust from behind can be either the ebpv shaft leaking,dp connection or up pipe to collector leaking. Look at the pipe on pass head at the back where it goes up into the collector for black soot.

Steam=blow-by which yours ssounds completely normal.

Oil in coolant is likely oil cooler core or orings on said core.

If the ICP sensor has ANY oil inside the connector end then it is ready to fail.

I don't see any reason to not drag it outta there and get it going.. These ol trucks ain't rocket science !! Get to work!

 

stumbling at that RPM can be Injector orings, IPC/pigtail, or IPR/pigtail/loose tinnerman nut. Hopefully your oil level is correct too.


that steam is normal, cap should not pop off at 2k RPM


Those orange boots, one on turbo can split and dust engine. the other two can be loose or split at times as well


Diesels run lean at idel, there is no throttle plate to restrict air
Gass engines need to run in a fuel air ratio https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio
Timing is by injection
power is done by more fuel via pressure to injectors


at id

 

Guys, thanks for explaining everything to me and not just saying "because" LOL. I want to understand,, and just from your replys and searching this site I am gaining confidence working on this rig.

KnottyRope, I went through your suggestions and wanted to verify the "tin nut" - after fighting to find where the heck it is, and getting at an angle while laying on the engine that I could actually see it.. there is NO nut on it - Just bare threads where a nut should be!

Oil level is good and remains good. or course I havent ran the truck as a "driver" for time to monitor consumption.

I ordered a rebuild kit for the fpr that includes new nut hardware, I also ordered a new IPC sensor and pigtail.

What is the function of that nut? -- Sure looks like a fun time to replace it, the valley on this motor ...well.. leaves a little to be desired, theres alot of stuff crammed in there - Im thinking of ordered a bowl re-seal kit and just pull everything out of the valley just to clean and inspect and make everything (maybe) easier .

I tried pulling the HPOP oil plug on top and snapped a 1/4 reducer in the process - I would hate to keep leveraging on that aluminum case, Can I pull a sensor to check / change the oil in the res? -- or is there even a need to bother with it? -- I read mixed posts about this subject so it seems to be "pick a side" .

thanks again folks

 

I also examined some leaking oil from above the oil filter base / cooler area, not dripping or pouring, but you can see the wetness and alot of grime , I am going to re-seal / replace the oil cooler once i get it running a bit better - but man - that looks like a 12 beer and 10 bloody knuckles job - lol

 

Rebuilding the oil cooler is not to bad of a job, just messy as you nee to drain the coolant, and it seems you can't get all the coolant out so when the oil cooler is removed you get the rest of the coolant. LOL There are 2 bolts on the front, and 3 on the filter end that hold the cooler on. Remove the cooler as a unit, and disassemble it on the bench. When reassembling it, use a ton of lube on the o rings, yo keep the o rings from rolling/tearing. I use Vasoline.

 

I would rather do an oil cooler than a turbo pedestal


That tin nut hold the coil on to the IPR that controls HPOP pressure.


If loose or missing, it wont regulate pressure well making it not run well


That HPOP plug can be tight as heck or easy. Take care removing it


Simple green and open hose will clean the valley, don't spray hard

 

If you pull the fuel bowl you'll find the tin nut. lol


When I stripped the hexagon nut trying to take my plug out of the top of the hpop res I ended up cutting a grove across the top of the plug. Then with a screwdriver and hammer got it off placing the screw driver at a angle to the grove and tapping with the hammer.

 

Well today I removed the turbo, fuel pump and bowl.... what a fiasco... now im no "expert" but I've been turning wrenches a long time.. but wow that turbo mounting is a joke... I bet the guy who designed all that still
giggles when he thinks about people busting there knuckles and snapping every 1/4 inch swivel adapter in the tool box. Gonna listen to the guy moan at sears when i turn in the handful for replacement lol.

anyway.. so I have the valley clear. The tin nut and collar is nowhere to be found, which does not make sense as I see no escape. ... now the fuel pump is brand new..so all I can figure is whoever he had do the fuel pump may of found them in the valley and tossed them not knowing what they were.

so in a parts wait now. Resealing everything, replacing lines, various sensors and wires.

Thinking i should rebuild the turbo while it's out. I really don't want to go through that again anytime soon.

thats all for now, my back is killing me from hunching over, I'm pretty sure I have a permanent imprint of the hood latch on my hip. Knuckles are shot. LOL

 

I'm assuming they are craftsman since you said you will going back to Sears with them. Some heads up, Sears sold the craftsman line to Stanley last week, not sure where it's going to go now. Craftsman has been outsourced to China for many years now. I have had several chinese made craftsman tools break to the point where I will never buy a chinese made craftsman tool ever again. What I do now to get made in USA craftsman is go on eBay.tons of new and used stuff still good though. I am a craftsman junkie but there is maybe 3 tools of theirs I have made in Tawain (which actually is good) and basically all of them are Made in USA.
Armstrong is a good brand that wont break the bank like Snap-On, and they are still made in USA.in fact, I buy Armstrong for my impact stuff. Their tools are awesome as well as Made in USA craftsman. Supposedly proto is making Made in USA tools, but they are pricy. Not like how they used to be way back. Craftsman has a line called Industrial that is all made in USA stuff, but with Stanley buying them, I am unsure if they plan to continue that line or what their plan will be.

Sorry for the side bar. I don't know as much as these guys commenting on these trucks, otherwise I would be chiming in about that as well.