Intermittent Power Loss
#76
#77
Did a couple things over the weekend with confusing, but encouraging, effects.
Started the truck and it idled rough. I messed with the Android apps, trying to get them hooked up.
After a while, I revved the motor and the idle evened out. It stayed that way until I turned it off 90 minutes later. That evening, I got the intake and the chip back in. I started it up and drove it around for about 15 minutes. After that time, it lost some power, but it didn't stop the truck. I carefully limped it back around the block to the driveway and parked it.
Next night, I fired it up again. Idle was rough for about 2 to 3 minutes. I revved it and it evened out. I drove it around and burned about a quarter tank of fuel. It ran beautifully. The new turbo wheel sounds nice and builds boost fast.
I'm going to test drive it for a while to see how things go.
So this leaves me with two questions.
1)
I’m thinking that half of my “intermittent” problem last week was due to the fact that I pulled the fuel bowl out twice and replaced the IPR, draining and refilling the HPOP reservoir. After starting the motor back up, it’s going to run rough for a while until all the air gets evacuated from the fuel and HPOP systems. I was thinking like 90 seconds at idle would be enough for this. I’m seeing in some other posts around here that it is more like an hour under load to really get everything running smoothly again. Does it sound possible that I might have already fixed the problem (or one of them) and I just needed to run the engine for a while under load?
2)
I can’t get CarGaugePro to talk to my truck. I’ve tried for quite some time. That was the cheap way to get the buzz test and the contribution test. It would seem foolhardy to throw injectors at this motor without running those two tests. How can I run these tests for cheap? Am I going to have to invest in Autoengenuity?
- Got the boost leak tester put together very nicely. Blew compressed air into it, and it just all leaked out immediately, like some other post on this forum said it would. Tested MAP sensor by blowing on the hose (like i was told to) and it worked fine (like i was told it would...).
- Got a new OBDII BlueTooth adapter in the hopes that I could actually run the contribution tests with CarGaugePro. Still did not work.
- When I tried to start the truck, the batteries were dead from the headlight switch being knocked to the on position some time earlier in the week. 10 year old batteries would not recharge, so replaced them.
Started the truck and it idled rough. I messed with the Android apps, trying to get them hooked up.
After a while, I revved the motor and the idle evened out. It stayed that way until I turned it off 90 minutes later. That evening, I got the intake and the chip back in. I started it up and drove it around for about 15 minutes. After that time, it lost some power, but it didn't stop the truck. I carefully limped it back around the block to the driveway and parked it.
Next night, I fired it up again. Idle was rough for about 2 to 3 minutes. I revved it and it evened out. I drove it around and burned about a quarter tank of fuel. It ran beautifully. The new turbo wheel sounds nice and builds boost fast.
I'm going to test drive it for a while to see how things go.
So this leaves me with two questions.
1)
I’m thinking that half of my “intermittent” problem last week was due to the fact that I pulled the fuel bowl out twice and replaced the IPR, draining and refilling the HPOP reservoir. After starting the motor back up, it’s going to run rough for a while until all the air gets evacuated from the fuel and HPOP systems. I was thinking like 90 seconds at idle would be enough for this. I’m seeing in some other posts around here that it is more like an hour under load to really get everything running smoothly again. Does it sound possible that I might have already fixed the problem (or one of them) and I just needed to run the engine for a while under load?
2)
I can’t get CarGaugePro to talk to my truck. I’ve tried for quite some time. That was the cheap way to get the buzz test and the contribution test. It would seem foolhardy to throw injectors at this motor without running those two tests. How can I run these tests for cheap? Am I going to have to invest in Autoengenuity?
#78
Did a couple things over the weekend with confusing, but encouraging, effects.
Started the truck and it idled rough. I messed with the Android apps, trying to get them hooked up.
After a while, I revved the motor and the idle evened out. It stayed that way until I turned it off 90 minutes later. That evening, I got the intake and the chip back in. I started it up and drove it around for about 15 minutes. After that time, it lost some power, but it didn't stop the truck. I carefully limped it back around the block to the driveway and parked it.
Next night, I fired it up again. Idle was rough for about 2 to 3 minutes. I revved it and it evened out. I drove it around and burned about a quarter tank of fuel. It ran beautifully. The new turbo wheel sounds nice and builds boost fast.
I'm going to test drive it for a while to see how things go.
So this leaves me with two questions.
1)
I’m thinking that half of my “intermittent” problem last week was due to the fact that I pulled the fuel bowl out twice and replaced the IPR, draining and refilling the HPOP reservoir. After starting the motor back up, it’s going to run rough for a while until all the air gets evacuated from the fuel and HPOP systems. I was thinking like 90 seconds at idle would be enough for this. I’m seeing in some other posts around here that it is more like an hour under load to really get everything running smoothly again. Does it sound possible that I might have already fixed the problem (or one of them) and I just needed to run the engine for a while under load?
2)
I can’t get CarGaugePro to talk to my truck. I’ve tried for quite some time. That was the cheap way to get the buzz test and the contribution test. It would seem foolhardy to throw injectors at this motor without running those two tests. How can I run these tests for cheap? Am I going to have to invest in Autoengenuity?
- Got the boost leak tester put together very nicely. Blew compressed air into it, and it just all leaked out immediately, like some other post on this forum said it would. Tested MAP sensor by blowing on the hose (like i was told to) and it worked fine (like i was told it would...).
- Got a new OBDII BlueTooth adapter in the hopes that I could actually run the contribution tests with CarGaugePro. Still did not work.
- When I tried to start the truck, the batteries were dead from the headlight switch being knocked to the on position some time earlier in the week. 10 year old batteries would not recharge, so replaced them.
Started the truck and it idled rough. I messed with the Android apps, trying to get them hooked up.
After a while, I revved the motor and the idle evened out. It stayed that way until I turned it off 90 minutes later. That evening, I got the intake and the chip back in. I started it up and drove it around for about 15 minutes. After that time, it lost some power, but it didn't stop the truck. I carefully limped it back around the block to the driveway and parked it.
Next night, I fired it up again. Idle was rough for about 2 to 3 minutes. I revved it and it evened out. I drove it around and burned about a quarter tank of fuel. It ran beautifully. The new turbo wheel sounds nice and builds boost fast.
I'm going to test drive it for a while to see how things go.
So this leaves me with two questions.
1)
I’m thinking that half of my “intermittent” problem last week was due to the fact that I pulled the fuel bowl out twice and replaced the IPR, draining and refilling the HPOP reservoir. After starting the motor back up, it’s going to run rough for a while until all the air gets evacuated from the fuel and HPOP systems. I was thinking like 90 seconds at idle would be enough for this. I’m seeing in some other posts around here that it is more like an hour under load to really get everything running smoothly again. Does it sound possible that I might have already fixed the problem (or one of them) and I just needed to run the engine for a while under load?
2)
I can’t get CarGaugePro to talk to my truck. I’ve tried for quite some time. That was the cheap way to get the buzz test and the contribution test. It would seem foolhardy to throw injectors at this motor without running those two tests. How can I run these tests for cheap? Am I going to have to invest in Autoengenuity?
Can you connect with torque pro in Android ? You have to enable the special for PID to get readings.
It won't do Contribution or buzz test but it can test your connection.
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